Share some MF photos ... part 2
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clubgrit
Senior Member
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mamiya 645
Tri x@iso 200
:bigeyes::bigeyes:::thumbsup:
Wah! care to share where you meter, how u meter and then how u develop this?!
SWEEEEEEEE!
503cw cfe80, extension tube, provia.
..
Wah! bery nice
when i return in July......
show me a thing or 2 how u shoot leh :embrass:
clubgrit
Senior Member
u know, after last few yrs of hasselblad, i have decided, i shall excel my marco of flowers and plants in MF and LF.
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clubgrit
Senior Member
Yeah, man, you are very good at it. We do find out later what we are most interested in and good at. Of course, we can change later too, even Bresson went back to painting 
. I remember those days when I bought so many lenses (to learn and use, not to collect), figured out soon enough that I only wanted very little.
And speaking of flora, I always remember Imogen Cunnigham, who was most known for this (using LF), but she also added more later to her photography.
.
. I remember those days when I bought so many lenses (to learn and use, not to collect), figured out soon enough that I only wanted very little.And speaking of flora, I always remember Imogen Cunnigham, who was most known for this (using LF), but she also added more later to her photography.
u know, after last few yrs of hasselblad, i have decided, i shall excel my marco of flowers and plants in MF and LF.
.
here's another sheepish :embrass: question....
do u guys (those still learning) all use a spotmeter or something?
I know the experts have already shot so much that possibly even know the metering, without needing to measure?
I have an alcheapo polaris light meter with a 10 degree spot...but i think its not accurate.
I metered with my D70 on spot and its quite a leeway off....
is there a way to calibrate the light meter? (this sounds ridiculous right?) or should i just purchase a good spot meter? (which ones?)
do u guys (those still learning) all use a spotmeter or something?
I know the experts have already shot so much that possibly even know the metering, without needing to measure?
I have an alcheapo polaris light meter with a 10 degree spot...but i think its not accurate.
I metered with my D70 on spot and its quite a leeway off....
is there a way to calibrate the light meter? (this sounds ridiculous right?) or should i just purchase a good spot meter? (which ones?)
I use a sekonic, it's "calibrate-able" but not easy to do so. So i just stick with the defaults. I had a polaris before but didn't care for the 10 degrees, too wide for a real spot.
That said, the sekonic is one very sophisticated, bulky and expensive piece of equipment of which I hardly use 20% of it's full capabilities. You might also want to consider some older 1 degree spot meters, pentax if I'm not wrong. But those you'll need to hunt down on ebay and such.
Of course if you just use the spot meter alone without knowing how to interpret the results, then that's even worse than using an area based metering system. If you couple it with the zone system, that's when things start to fall into place.
I use a sekonic, it's "calibrate-able" but not easy to do so. So i just stick with the defaults. I had a polaris before but didn't care for the 10 degrees, too wide for a real spot.
That said, the sekonic is one very sophisticated, bulky and expensive piece of equipment of which I hardly use 20% of it's full capabilities. You might also want to consider some older 1 degree spot meters, pentax if I'm not wrong. But those you'll need to hunt down on ebay and such.
Of course if you just use the spot meter alone without knowing how to interpret the results, then that's even worse than using an area based metering system. If you couple it with the zone system, that's when things start to fall into place.
Thanx heaps for your recommendations and yes totally agree with your last statement.
just that i have 2 meters...one is my sunny16 rule, which i randomize my metering based on what my instincts tell me (sadly, its only about 60% correct - i blame this on myself, of not shooting everyday) and sometimes, i bring my polaris out to use. (yes 10degree is really wide actually) and i was actually really pissed when my pictures came out completely biased left or right, DESPITE already interpreting the results (i.e. i shot at the value shown, at what i deem as graypoint, and i also shot some other frames with other values, depending on what i wanted the scene to be like), and the negative was not spot on.
Hence, i brought out my D70,put it to spot and tried to compare against the polaris spot and found that the values were very very much different. ....:cry:
I'll try to look for a sekonic spot then....which particular model will that be?........ or the hassy? .........
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which prism are you using?
the PME45 or PME90?
both are damn ex.......:cry: but haiz...i would like to have one though
clubgrit
Senior Member
I prefer the PME-45 over the PME 90, not too much strain on muscles .
The PME-45's spot is 12 degrees I think, but I have no problems especially since I shoot mostly with a 180mm where most of the light is even - i.e. close shots. Further away, or using 80mm, just more careful and move it around checking. I used Sekonic separately once, but after comparing, it's almost the same, so I just use the prism's spot now. I still use the Sekonic for others, 1-degree, and of course ambient which I need for flash/strobes.
Yes, I think they are expensive, even used, but I got the whole Hassy set from a friend so I did not feel the pinch on my already empty pockets.
A cheaper alternative is the Kiev, cheaper than the Sekonic too. So you have an uninverted view, and a spot and center-weighted at the same time. I bought it here:
http://cgi.ebay.com/SPOT-TTL-prism-...ptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?_trksid=p3286.m20.l1116
But I have compared it, even already calibrated by factory (or maybe they just did not), not as accurate or comfortable as the Hassy - i.e. does not come as close to Sekonic reading. So factory must have used some other comparison. But you can calibrate yourself. For the price, can't complain too much.
How it looks through the screen (ignore the Rollei information) :
http://www.photographical.net/tlr_ttl.html
How to calibrate it:
http://kievaholic.com/meters.html
.
.The PME-45's spot is 12 degrees I think, but I have no problems especially since I shoot mostly with a 180mm where most of the light is even - i.e. close shots. Further away, or using 80mm, just more careful and move it around checking. I used Sekonic separately once, but after comparing, it's almost the same, so I just use the prism's spot now. I still use the Sekonic for others, 1-degree, and of course ambient which I need for flash/strobes.
Yes, I think they are expensive, even used, but I got the whole Hassy set from a friend so I did not feel the pinch on my already empty pockets.
A cheaper alternative is the Kiev, cheaper than the Sekonic too. So you have an uninverted view, and a spot and center-weighted at the same time. I bought it here:
http://cgi.ebay.com/SPOT-TTL-prism-...ptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?_trksid=p3286.m20.l1116
But I have compared it, even already calibrated by factory (or maybe they just did not), not as accurate or comfortable as the Hassy - i.e. does not come as close to Sekonic reading. So factory must have used some other comparison. But you can calibrate yourself. For the price, can't complain too much
.How it looks through the screen (ignore the Rollei information) :
http://www.photographical.net/tlr_ttl.html
How to calibrate it:
http://kievaholic.com/meters.html
.
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I used to do that as well, bring a digital camera to test the light, but it's just too much of a hassle, not to mention the additional weight.
If your metering technique is sound you must learn to trust the meter. In fact it's more satisfying when you get it right this way.
I'm using the sekonic 758D... I think the other sekonics don't have the 1deg spot. Another good thing about the sekonic is that you can fire off at several spots and let the meter average them for you. Or to see what's the contrast range within a scene to predict how it will look on film. But like I said, it's one complicated device which I have yet to master.
I prefer the PME-45 over the PME 90, not too much strain on muscles
The PME-45's spot is 12 degrees I think, but I have no problems especially since I shoot mostly with a 180mm where most of the light is even - i.e. close shots. Further away, or using 80mm, just more careful and move it around checking. I used Sekonic separately once, but after comparing, it's almost the same, so I just use the prism's spot now. I still use the Sekonic for others, 1-degree, and of course ambient which I need for flash/strobes.
Yes, I think they are expensive, even used, but I got the whole Hassy set from a friend so I did not feel the pinch on my already empty pockets.
A cheaper alternative is the Kiev, cheaper than the Sekonic too. So you have an uninverted view, and a spot and center-weighted at the same time. I bought it here:
http://cgi.ebay.com/SPOT-TTL-prism-...ptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?_trksid=p3286.m20.l1116
But I have compared it, even already calibrated by factory (or maybe they just did not), not as accurate or comfortable as the Hassy - i.e. does not come as close to Sekonic reading. So factory must have used some other comparison. But you can calibrate yourself. For the price, can't complain too much
How it looks through the screen (ignore the Rollei information) :
http://www.photographical.net/tlr_ttl.html
How to calibrate it:
http://kievaholic.com/meters.html
.
Wow! Thanx heaps clubgrit.....learned something new again! WAH! hassey complete set from Friend?!?!?!? :O can i your friend's friend too?
I have only 2 CZ lenses, the 80mm and the 120mm......so maybe they are not so huge difference in distance.....
and hmmmm......very gian on the PME45 .....played with the PME 90 once...also quite gian...but heard cannot take polaroid backs?......
in anycase,.......i'll check evilbay for a comparison of price + shipping of PME 45/90 and the sekonic spot meter.
yeah, i know it is much more satisfying when i get it right...but i think my light meter is seriously screwed liao...its throwing wild values at times......I used to do that as well, bring a digital camera to test the light, but it's just too much of a hassle, not to mention the additional weight.
If your metering technique is sound you must learn to trust the meter. In fact it's more satisfying when you get it right this way.
I'm using the sekonic 758D... I think the other sekonics don't have the 1deg spot. Another good thing about the sekonic is that you can fire off at several spots and let the meter average them for you. Or to see what's the contrast range within a scene to predict how it will look on film. But like I said, it's one complicated device which I have yet to master.
Currently, i'll bring my D70 with the 105 attached and it is serving as a "spot meter" sort of ....
:what:
but yeah...the weight is ........
wah, how much u bot the sekonic 758D? its sold in all shops in SG?
Yeah, man, you are very good at it. We do find out later what we are most interested in and good at. Of course, we can change later too, even Bresson went back to painting
And speaking of flora, I always remember Imogen Cunnigham, who was most known for this (using LF), but she also added more later to her photography.
.
Thanks for the link. macro in bnw is the next thing i wanna try soon.
thanks thanks..
using the zone system actually. meter the grass at zone 3. expose for shadows.
develop the film for extended 10%. ie. tmax 1+9, 20deg, about 10min
scanned using v700, did some levels and curves in photoshop.....
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