Share some MF photo.... Part 6


Status
Not open for further replies.
One last photo of Nico

nico6.jpg


Bronica ETRSi with 80/f2.8 lens
Film used is the Fuji Acros 100 developed in D-76/Fotohub.
 

img006.jpg


Church, Nova Scotia, Canada
Hasselblad 503cx, Kodak 400tx, Kodak D-76, Epson scanner.
 

Last edited:
img018.jpg


Light house, Prince Edward Island, Canada
Hasselblad 503cx, Kodak 400tx, Kodak D-76, Epson scanner.
 

Last edited:
6920966581_65ec8eae6c_z.jpg


Rolleiflex 2.8F Xenotar
Fuji Reala
 

knight84: yeah. i tried 2 methods for low key, first with flash and then with LED lighting . the strobe version looked better but the LED version had interesting DOF due to open wide aperture.
 

raytoei said:
knight84: yeah. i tried 2 methods for low key, first with flash and then with LED lighting . the strobe version looked better but the LED version had interesting DOF due to open wide aperture.

Thanks! I was wondering. Cause the dof looked too shallow for studio strobes!

Nicely done
 

latte at loysel toys...

had a hard time close focusing on a mamiya c330, 80mm f2.8...its just too heavy to stay still for me..lol

6916109239_22e1da541d_z.jpg
 

Pikapig, wait a minute...one of the c330 feature is close focus...and you are having problems holding it ?! i almost pulled the trigeer on a c220....
 

Pikapig, wait a minute...one of the c330 feature is close focus...and you are having problems holding it ?! i almost pulled the trigeer on a c220....

Yup...its heavy without a tripod..the shot was handheld at 1/15, so in a way, when i focus thru the manifying glass..my hand is shaking left n right..a c220 would make sense as its lmuch lighter :)
 

Its prudent to carry a light weight tripod for the C330.
Even for the C220 I use a light portable tripod as well.

Worse come to worse, carry a monopod, even a cheap and light one helps a lot.
Or you can be like Lua Lua using the Manfrotto 680 type with a Pistol grip (I find it too heavy).
Great stability and no more camera shake.
 

Kodak E100VS Bronica SQ-Ai

40mm PS lens

6777402036_0f5704b069_z.jpg


80mm f2.8 PS lens

6923513335_566d7a3aff_z.jpg


After like failing 4 rolls of slides from my trip, i finally grasp some idea on how to shoot slides....exposure seems correct here...think due to scanning and visual wise, i + 1/2 to +1 stop of exposure...for landscape generally 1/2 stop is enough, but for people, i realised its better to shoot at 1 stop cos i realised once its slightly under, the skin tone turned very dark orangy...might be my scanner also...
Thanks to losheng, billy, jon and a few others whom i kept asking even before i load a roll to shoot...:bsmilie:


Billy while reading ur msg on the slides, i was halfway shooting at Botanic Garden....:D
 

most welcome...
The last 2 shots posted are very nice.

different camera have different ways to meter the scene brightness, so... it varies from camera to camera....

Billy

Billy while reading ur msg on the slides, i was halfway shooting at Botanic Garden....:D
 

Slide is not difficult to grasp just that the margin is very low for errors.
Print film error margin is gross so tend to build up bad habits.

Digital image allows some optimization, manipulation or improvement whatever you call it.
Get a better scanner, its part of the game.

On the metering, have two meters to check against one another.

6058077897_0a062bf42b_z.jpg
 

Last edited:
pikapig said:
Kodak E100VS Bronica SQ-Ai

40mm PS lens

80mm f2.8 PS lens

After like failing 4 rolls of slides from my trip, i finally grasp some idea on how to shoot slides....exposure seems correct here...think due to scanning and visual wise, i + 1/2 to +1 stop of exposure...for landscape generally 1/2 stop is enough, but for people, i realised its better to shoot at 1 stop cos i realised once its slightly under, the skin tone turned very dark orangy...might be my scanner also...
Thanks to losheng, billy, jon and a few others whom i kept asking even before i load a roll to shoot...:bsmilie:

Billy while reading ur msg on the slides, i was halfway shooting at Botanic Garden....:D

Actually the choice of slides is an important factor u should not leave out. Deliberate over exposing will result in a loss of colour saturation. In fact i rate my slides at a third stop under the recommended speed to get nice rich colours. Try provia 100 at asa100. I had good results (skin tone)with it.
 

If possible, a small burst of flash to fill in the shadows of your subject will also help to improve the skin tones.
 

Actually the choice of slides is an important factor u should not leave out. Deliberate over exposing will result in a loss of colour saturation. In fact i rate my slides at a third stop under the recommended speed to get nice rich colours. Try provia 100 at asa100. I had good results (skin tone)with it.

Correct.

Provia for people. Velvia 50 for landscape. E100VS for night and stunning colours. Velvia 100 still a bit red.

Over exposing slide is big no no (latitude less than 1 stop). You get nothing for burned out.

Like Lualua said. -1/3 stop is default.
 

Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top