Share some MF photo.... Part 6

[Nikkornos]

Flexaret standard, Ultrafine extreme 400, d76 1+1, pano stitched in photoshop
​

Nice stitch! Pano PS S (PPS) can beat 617!

How did you walk up the bridge? From the other side the path does not connect up.

I suppose night scene will be much better, but the bridge does vibrate when some heavy vehicles run thru.

 

[pikapig]

Agree with you...
Same camera, lenses and film as josevilla. I think best combination already :thumbsup:
I remember josevilla always pulls 1 stop. Perhaps color will pop up nicer in that way? :think:
http://josevillablog.com/

Im have tried the pull part with fuji superia...ended up its quite horrible...

Ernest did u have any issues with overly exposed shots w the 400H?

 

[oceanpriest]

Nice stitch! Pano PS S (PPS) can beat 617!

How did you walk up the bridge? From the other side the path does not connect up.

I suppose night scene will be much better, but the bridge does vibrate when some heavy vehicles run thru.

They were shot at 3 different spots, hence I use photoshop CS 1 to manually stitch them. otherwise the hugin/pano software won't be able to stitch since the nodal points are different. :bsmilie:

 

[Nikkornos]

Im have tried the pull part with fuji superia...ended up its quite horrible...
Ernest did u have any issues with overly exposed shots w the 400H?

It may not be a bad to derate the film. Lower the ISO reduce the contrast.

Fujifilm if you over expose by +1/3 to +1 stop always gives very good results.

For 135 film, I default over expose +1/3 stop
For 120, I over expose +1/3 to 1 stop. NEVER under expose.
Superia 200 use as Superia 100 , Superia 400 use as 320, 200.

The new Fuji 120 are much better than NPS or NPH. Expose as 320 or 200 will be great.

For the family shots, i still think its on the tonality is still on the flat side.
I maintain the believes since the film days: 645 is a waste of time and many 135 system can do a better job.

 

[oceanpriest]

It may not be a bad to derate the film. Lower the ISO reduce the contrast.

Fujifilm if you over expose by +1/3 to +1 stop always gives very good results.

For 135 film, I default over expose +1/3 stop
For 120, I over expose +1/3 to 1 stop. NEVER under expose.
Superia 200 use as Superia 100 , Superia 400 use as 320, 200.

The new Fuji 120 are much better than NPS or NPH. Expose as 320 or 200 will be great.

For the family shots, i still think its on the tonality is still on the flat side.
I maintain the believes since the film days: 645 is a waste of time and many 135 system can do a better job.

When you said "expose as 320 or 200", did you mean just over exposing the negative without adjustment on development side, or you also ask the lab to shorten the development (pulling)?

 

[Nikkornos]

Hello oceanpriest, please note there is an error in the BAD , it should be NOT BAD.

I don't use the term PULL because it is more often used for developing time in the old days.

I use the term derate the film, because:
1. In old days, some Fuji and Konica or SAKURA film bsmilie rated at 400 were not really 400. They were at best 200.
2. Older Fuji Konica SAKURA we used to expose by 1/3 to 1 stop over for better results.

recently, many C41 labs close down. I dont think asking to reduce development time is a good option.
Or you DIY, reduce development time is not a good idea for consistency.

So, over expose by 1/3 to 1 stop. Then ask the lab to do as per normal.
I have some old Contax 634 shots. Colour rich and saturated.

 

[oceanpriest]

Flexaret standard, Ultrafine Extreme 400, Sunny16, D76 1+1 13 mins @20 C

 

[pixelbrain]

Im have tried the pull part with fuji superia...ended up its quite horrible...

Ernest did u have any issues with overly exposed shots w the 400H?

not really, much of the final result is dependent on scanning & post processing anyway. but workflow works, at least for me.

still working on fine tuning to get better consistency.

It may not be a bad to derate the film. Lower the ISO reduce the contrast.

Fujifilm if you over expose by +1/3 to +1 stop always gives very good results.

For 135 film, I default over expose +1/3 stop
For 120, I over expose +1/3 to 1 stop. NEVER under expose.
Superia 200 use as Superia 100 , Superia 400 use as 320, 200.

The new Fuji 120 are much better than NPS or NPH. Expose as 320 or 200 will be great.

For the family shots, i still think its on the tonality is still on the flat side.
I maintain the believes since the film days: 645 is a waste of time and many 135 system can do a better job.

yup i agree with you on neg film "over-exposure" in general, but really depends what you're exposing for..

however i disagree that 645 is a waste of time, depends on what kind of application & output/look you're after i guess. you've used the contax 645 with the zeiss glass i believe, i'm sure you can tell the difference compared to even the best 135 has to offer.
perhaps my shots/processing aren't good examples, but I've seen enough to be convinced. anyway I've only touched on the contax 645 system, so not sure if you meant in general or specifically the contax.. not too many choices anyway.

 

[Nikkornos]

not really, much of the final result is dependent on scanning & post processing anyway. but workflow works, at least for me.
still working on fine tuning to get better consistency.
yup i agree with you on neg film "over-exposure" in general, but really depends what you're exposing for..
however i disagree that 645 is a waste of time, depends on what kind of application & output/look you're after i guess. you've used the contax 645 with the zeiss glass i believe, i'm sure you can tell the difference compared to even the best 135 has to offer.
perhaps my shots/processing aren't good examples, but I've seen enough to be convinced. anyway I've only touched on the contax 645 system, so not sure if you meant in general or specifically the contax.. not too many choices anyway.

I had the Contax 645. Later I bought the 645 AF D and really tried out with a JB wedding photographer. Also sold it to someone in KL.
In terms of process flow, it is less efficient and not much advantage in the final product. The Contax was prone to failures and I had my share with it.

In the older film days where C41 or E6 process was more tight from RGB, 645 still was not a popular choice.
Now with C41 process labs doing very poor jobs, unless you want to move on to D back, the Contax system start to show problems, especially consistency.

Since you are still young and strong, the Contax seems ok for you. But when you hit a latter age, you will start to have issues.
Yes the Zeiss glass are good, but Mamiya lenses are also not far behind. Many can anytime make images using my Mamiya TLR or 7 that rival Zeiss.
The Contax Planar at F2 sounds more superior than the rest at F2.8, but in execution you should know its just fun to use.

The good 645 system is actually the PhaseOne/Mamiya 645. Its a modern setup with digital readiness and logically priced.
Autofocus wins by 100 miles, and accessories are still much cheaper than Contax (film insert new is only 1/3 the price of OLD Contax).
Run a roll of Fuji 400H on the PhaseOne/Mamiya 645, its much easier to use and produces excellent results.

In summary, the Contax is an expensive toy. The price just going insane. I sold it with no regrets.

Provided C41 is properly done, the 135 and 645 has no much difference by inspection.
Nikon or Canon made many excellent F1.4 AF lenses that can piss the old Zeiss off by a far margin.
Now with Nikon D800 and the latest new optics, it challenges a lot of old tales.
In the old Contax club days, we have already compared a lot of large prints. I still have some model shoots that I can show you one day.

 

[azimon]

Velvia 50

 

[oceanpriest]

I had the Contax 645. Later I bought the 645 AF D and really tried out with a JB wedding photographer. Also sold it to someone in KL.
In terms of process flow, it is less efficient and not much advantage in the final product. The Contax was prone to failures and I had my share with it.

In the older film days where C41 or E6 process was more tight from RGB, 645 still was not a popular choice.
Now with C41 process labs doing very poor jobs, unless you want to move on to D back, the Contax system start to show problems, especially consistency.

Since you are still young and strong, the Contax seems ok for you. But when you hit a latter age, you will start to have issues.
Yes the Zeiss glass are good, but Mamiya lenses are also not far behind. Many can anytime make images using my Mamiya TLR or 7 that rival Zeiss.
The Contax Planar at F2 sounds more superior than the rest at F2.8, but in execution you should know its just fun to use.

The good 645 system is actually the PhaseOne/Mamiya 645. Its a modern setup with digital readiness and logically priced.
Autofocus wins by 100 miles, and accessories are still much cheaper than Contax (film insert new is only 1/3 the price of OLD Contax).
Run a roll of Fuji 400H on the PhaseOne/Mamiya 645, its much easier to use and produces excellent results.

In summary, the Contax is an expensive toy. The price just going insane. I sold it with no regrets.

Provided C41 is properly done, the 135 and 645 has no much difference by inspection.
Nikon or Canon made many excellent F1.4 AF lenses that can piss the old Zeiss off by a far margin.
Now with Nikon D800 and the latest new optics, it challenges a lot of old tales.
In the old Contax club days, we have already compared a lot of large prints. I still have some model shoots that I can show you one day.

For dimension, I think I agree with you. With 645 at f2.8, it seems not much different from 135 at f1.2/f1.4.

Pentax 645, 75mm f2.8, Ektar 100

K1000, 50mm f1.2, Reala 100

For me, I still shoot 645 because my v600 is not so good in scanning 135. can't even resolve the grain

 

[Nikkornos]

Wahhhh you make me feel like signing up for Xiao Mei mei Shoot this weekend. :cheergal:

 

[Nikkornos]

There is a way to get around the grains in V600 or lower. I tried on Canon scan.

Scan 3 copies, at different exposures at max resolutions. -1 , ON, +1
Then combine as HDR in CS4. Do not sharpen.

Or, get Konota to Scan.

 

[oceanpriest]

Wahhhh you make me feel like signing up for Xiao Mei mei Shoot this weekend. :cheergal:

let's arrange some large/medium format xmm shoots in the future :bsmilie:

 

[Nikkornos]

let's arrange some large/medium format xmm shoots in the future :bsmilie:

;p Modeline offered 2.5 hours studio plus lighting plus model price to PM ;p

 

[lordpain]

Hasselblad 500c + Distagon 50 C
Fomapan 400 + HC110-H

Testing out my new camera and lens.

 

[Nikkornos]

Dover Pelican
Fuji Velvia 50

Good things in life never stay forever.

 

[evilspoon]

Pictures from Siem Reap, Cambodia


cam2 (2) by bokehboy21, on Flickr


cam3 (2) by bokehboy21, on Flickr


cam by bokehboy21, on Flickr

 

[paapoopa]

minolta autocord
delta400
ilfosol 1+14

 

[Nikkornos]

Dakota Estate one evening

150mm Kodak E100VS