Share some LF photos...


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I think we are drifting off the topic, it is better to leave such technical discussion on another thread like larger format photography. Lets try to keep this thread to posting and discussion about posted photos.
 

I think we are drifting off the topic, it is better to leave such technical discussion on another thread like larger format photography. Lets try to keep this thread to posting and discussion about posted photos.

Ok lah. Must get the film right first in order to post photos mah.... :)
 

sorry to be blunt - but for all the trouble you have taken the photo does no justice - there seems to be hardly a point of focus - my eye wanders around the pic and then just moves off.
 

sorry to be blunt - but for all the trouble you have taken the photo does no justice - there seems to be hardly a point of focus - my eye wanders around the pic and then just moves off.

I beg to differ. It's better to have neoro explain but I find the stone makes an excellent anchor. It's about detail, texture and how the light plays. As an abstract composition it's nicely captured.
 

if you are looking for gorgeous mountains with nice blue clouds and pretty flowers at foreground... this picture is not for you, sorry.

sorry to be blunt - but for all the trouble you have taken the photo does no justice - there seems to be hardly a point of focus - my eye wanders around the pic and then just moves off.
 

Another self developing try today. Results are mixed...


Scan-111009-0001 by ==--==, on Flickr

Adjusting the rear more and moving backward to include the branch at the edge might help. I am not at the field so I am not sure of there are anything on the frame or drain behind to prevent you from a sligtly more wider coverage by moving backward. I like the shadow area though, but can increase by half a stop as detail to the bottom left is lost.

Don't take it too hard. Vege bird 2 cents
 

Adjusting the rear more and moving backward to include the branch at the edge might help. I am not at the field so I am not sure of there are anything on the frame or drain behind to prevent you from a sligtly more wider coverage by moving backward. I like the shadow area though, but can increase by half a stop as detail to the bottom left is lost.

Don't take it too hard. Vege bird 2 cents

Thanks for the comment woot. In fact the shot was taken when I was position on a open big grassland...so no nothing is stopping me from moving backward=_=! I think 2 things stopped me doing so instead. There're branches of near by tree crossing which at that time I'm not too sure to include or not(should had tried one with that in).The other thing is I was so obssessed with not including too much foreground and the setup was already at its extremely top shift.(lol, I don't have monorail)
And the exposure I'm not too happy either. Iirc, it was exposed at 8s with rough reciprocal failure factoring. Should have brought the chart...

Thinking of revisiting the place in one of the morning when there's fog. Guess it will look nice.

Btw, the jobo drum and reel I'm using seems giving me a lot of streaks/stains at the edge. How to solve the issue? Currently I reverse rotation every 30s.(manual rotation, still trying to get the rhythm )
 

Thanks for the comment woot. In fact the shot was taken when I was position on a open big grassland...so no nothing is stopping me from moving backward=_=! I think 2 things stopped me doing so instead. There're branches of near by tree crossing which at that time I'm not too sure to include or not(should had tried one with that in).The other thing is I was so obssessed with not including too much foreground and the setup was already at its extremely top shift.(lol, I don't have monorail)
And the exposure I'm not too happy either. Iirc, it was exposed at 8s with rough reciprocal failure factoring. Should have brought the chart...

Thinking of revisiting the place in one of the morning when there's fog. Guess it will look nice.

Btw, the jobo drum and reel I'm using seems giving me a lot of streaks/stains at the edge. How to solve the issue? Currently I reverse rotation every 30s.(manual rotation, still trying to get the rhythm )

When I did manual roll in the past, I put a sticker (Mine is a star :D) on the drum outer wall. This sticker will indicate to me that a full rotation is complete. I just need to roll from left to right while using the sticker to ensure that the drum completed a full rotation.

Another use of the sticker to indicate that it is the position of the spilt inbetween the 2 film. (only for print drum) You just visualise that you are loading the film into the drum, so you scan the outer wall for a sticker. The position of the sticker means you can load a film to the left and right of it with a spilt in the middle. I think I get a photo of it when I reached home so easier to explain.
 

Thanks woot.I think I get what you mean...I'm using the jobo logo on the drum as marking to check revolution. I think the difference is I do continuous rolling for 30sec then reverse direction. Does motor roller help? And where can I get one?
When I did manual roll in the past, I put a sticker (Mine is a star :D) on the drum outer wall. This sticker will indicate to me that a full rotation is complete. I just need to roll from left to right while using the sticker to ensure that the drum completed a full rotation.

Another use of the sticker to indicate that it is the position of the spilt inbetween the 2 film. (only for print drum) You just visualise that you are loading the film into the drum, so you scan the outer wall for a sticker. The position of the sticker means you can load a film to the left and right of it with a spilt in the middle. I think I get a photo of it when I reached home so easier to explain.
 

Ah Hong

Which film did you use? Was it Shanghai 100 with D76? :)
 

Ah Hong

Which film did you use? Was it Shanghai 100 with D76? :)
ahhong... how does the negative look like? the scanned photo looks flat but with all details available. I would assume the sky to be towards whiteish rather than grey. maybe due to the scanning software. can be fixed by doing a levels or curves in post editing.
 

The film I used is delta 100 developed with ilfosol 3.
It looks more contrasty. It looks flat I think woot already pointed out, it could have been better if push half stop. Btw, the shot was taken immediately after sunset, the sky was dark also.thanks for all the feedback though. Now I know where to work to improve.
 

PS, sorry for late reply as work busy not everytime got time to visit CS and check out.;p I don't suggest pushing the film half a stop. I suggest taking the photo half a stop higher. You current image is still petty good where the sky are clear and nice. Though details are weak but still there. Pushing half a stop for such photos can spoil the image. Exposing half a stop higher is to allow the tree detail to be clearer and bringing out some of the loss and unclear detail especially on the ground. Maybe you might want to put your film through a light box and loupe and check the detail first. I am sure you can do that part digitally as well in scan to certain degree if the details are shown on your lightbox through the loupe. Anymore and I will start talking about the flaw with monitor and scanner with marketing hype, so better end it here.;p

Thanks woot.I think I get what you mean...I'm using the jobo logo on the drum as marking to check revolution. I think the difference is I do continuous rolling for 30sec then reverse direction. Does motor roller help? And where can I get one?

Motor roller helps and if you are using a jobo system, it should be a CPE2 with bath, maybe you can post your drum number here and I check when free.
 

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