felixcat8888
Senior Member
No Worries. We are here to share.
S6500fd owners - share your pixs here
- Thread starter vincecarlo
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No Worries. We are here to share.
vincecarlo
Senior Member
Thx for compliment.
I'm too lazy to bring a tripod along every time, so I only bring along a tripod to take specific night pix. That's why I love the Fuji Finepix series for their great low light capabilities
Juz sharing some of the the pix, if you see the below sunset show taken w/o tripod it was handheld. I've managed to get down to 1/25 shutter w/o handshake. Practice, practice, practice;p
http://forums.clubsnap.com/showthread.php?t=271619&page=4
Bali sunset shot of the man selling corn by the beach was taken w/o tripod, using PnS Fuji F20
shutter : 1/38
f/2.8
ISO 1600
wiLLy-LucifeR
New Member
yup, just like the others. it's all about ur breathing techniques.. sounds like army's ATP. =p
using ur evf, tuck in elbows, n use ur forehead to stabilise e camera body. half press (focus), breathe in n out.. n hold it dere. n shoot! =] practice makes perfect.
felixcat8888
Senior Member
lordring888
New Member
Thx a lot guys ,
you re a great help .. definitely getting this camera maybe during IT show cos the last PC show in Sep FUji is giving a free tripod !!! Is it a good idea ?? Other than this the only thing attractive are the free xD cards that most probably can be matched by shops.
Is the tripod given during show good enough for a newbie like me or just get it at shop wihout waiting for show ??
you re a great help .. definitely getting this camera maybe during IT show cos the last PC show in Sep FUji is giving a free tripod !!! Is it a good idea ?? Other than this the only thing attractive are the free xD cards that most probably can be matched by shops.
Is the tripod given during show good enough for a newbie like me or just get it at shop wihout waiting for show ??
felixcat8888
Senior Member
If you can wait then get at IT show, otherwise, go to M S Color or the other shops and get the tripod separately. Dun get too expensive a model though, else you will pay same price as for the cam
. Below $100 or even $50 can get a reasonable tripod.Cheers...
The tripod that I get from the recent PC show, i would say its not suitable for the size of S6500fd. Seems like quite flimsy n the camera will topple. My friend who bought the same camera n tripod feels the same too!
so if you want to start taking pictures with 6500 now, buy now. Else in Sept... probably there will be new model fr Fuji!
giddygomer
New Member
apologies if this post is not supposed to be here. can i ask how to achieve the depth of field effect with this camera? i tried at the minimum aperture, yet everything is still focused...
vincecarlo
Senior Member
depth of field works as such :
- Wide (28mm) has a deeper depth of field than Tele (300mm)
- smaller the aperture (larger number, ie f 7.1) has more depth of field than larger aperture (small number, ie f 2.8)
It's a combination of both length of lens and aperture, hope this helps
did you take a pix with 28mm and distant subject ?
wiLLy-LucifeR
New Member
hmmm, shouldnt it be e other way round?
as in a smaller aperture will give u a shallower depth of field [instead of more?]
as in a smaller aperture will give u a shallower depth of field [instead of more?]
Clockunder
New Member
Hi S6500fd users,
do you encounter any problem with blurr/shaky pictures as mention on various review on the net ?? As mention this camera doesn't comes with IS ..
Do you 'll need to use a tripod most of the time ?? As I'm interested to get this camera , so need some feedback from various users out there . Worry that pictures comes out to be shaky if carry only with both hands without tripod .
Handshake blur has a lot to do with the shutter speed used vs. the focal length used, as much as how much your hands shake.
General guideline : keep shutter speed faster than 1/actual focal length.
So if you're shooting with the S6500fd at the widest angle, the focal length is only about 6.2mm (28mm equivalent on 35mm format) and you can pretty much shoot at as slow as 1/8 shutter speed without getting blur pictures if your hands do not shake too much. At the longest focal length on the S6500fd, it's 66mm (300mm equivalent on 35mm format), it should be about ok if shutter speed is 1/70 or faster.
Most people who complain about blur picture are those who don't understand/know about the importance of a fast enough shutter speed vs focal length when handheld. That's why even for cameras with image stabiliser, people still complain about blur pictures. With image stabiliser, can shoot handheld as much as with shutter speed 2-3 stops slower than the general guideline above.
When I first started, I also didn't know and thought there was something wrong with my camera or handling technique or that my camera was lousy when I got blur pictures quite frequently. Nowadays, I watch out my shutter speed vs focal length and very seldom get any blur pictures. Currently I'm using Nikon 5700, a prosumer camera like the S6500fd without any image stabiliser.
The above guide of course will not guarantee a sharp pictures because it also depends on how much your hands shake. However, it's about there (+1 stop) for most people.
Clockunder
New Member
Actually, you don't get any better deal at PC/IT shows than at reputable shops.
At PC/IT shows, they give many not-so-useful freebies and charge a high total package price. At the reputable shops, you pay about the same for the total package but have the options to pay lower by avoiding the not-so-useful freebies (such as filmsy tripod, mini-tripod, bags etc.)
There is no free lunch. The freebies you get at IT/PC shows are actually priced into the total package but advertised as "Free".
For the S6500fd which is a pretty bulky and heavy camera, the tripod given during IT/PC show is not sturdy enough for most purposes. You need to spend $50-$100 for a more steady solid one if you intend to use the tripod often and under windy conditions. A good tripod is necessary for night landscape, fireworks, macro and anything which requires shutter speed slower than 1/actual focal length if there is no stabiliser. (Even with image stabiliser, the advantage is only another 2-3 stops. Below a certain shutter speed (such as 1/2 and slower), a tripod is necessary even with image stabiliser because the actual focal length is at least >5mm and image stabiliser can't compensate enough).
Clockunder
New Member
Small F number = large aperture = shallower depth of field.
Clockunder
New Member
To achieve a shallow DOF :
1) Use a small F number = large aperture
2) Short shooting distance from subject
3) Longer focal length
However, any decrease in DOF caused by a shorter distance is offset by an increase in DOF resulting from a shorter focal length usually necessary to achieve a certain composition at short shooting distance. So, for practical purposes, the DOF is about the same for the same composition if you use a longer focal length vs a shorter focal length because a longer focal length would require you to move further away to maintain the same composition.
So the key is the aperture. Use the smallest F number = largest aperture to achieve a shallower DOF.
Notwithstanding the above, even though the DOF may be the same, the picture effects are different due to the difference in angle of view which affects FOV (field of view) and the relative sizes of the background objects and how they are rendered.
The angle of view depends on the focal length used. The field of view depends on the angle of view and object distances.
The relative sizes of objects in the picture depends on their distances in terms of how many times focal length.
If they are 2 same size objects with 1 of them 90cm (i.e. 900mm) behind the other, if you use a 90mm lens, then the object behind is 10x focal length behind the front one. Therefore if you shoot the first object from about 1.8m away (20x focal length), the magnification factors for the 1st and 2nd objects would be 1/19 and1/29 and therefore the 2nd object would be about 2/3 the size of the 1st object in the picture.
If you use a 180mm lens, then you would need to shoot the first object at 3.6m away (again 20x focal length) to have the first object have the same size in the frame as earlier (using 90mm lens). Notice now that the 2nd object (90cm behind the 1st object) is now only 5x focal length (180mm lens now) behind the 1st object. The magnification factors for the 2 objects would be 1/19 and 1/24. So the 2nd object is now 4/5 size of the 1st object in the frame.
In the 2 cases above, the DOF is the same if the same F number aperture is used but the perspective is different.
All the above taken together, in all practical purposes, if you want to have a shallow DOF, either you move as close as possible or you use the longest focal length. Moving as close as possible and then achieve your composition with a short focal length will enhance the apparent distance differences between objects (because their distance apart is more in terms of focal length when a shorter focal length is used) while using a longer focal length and moving much further away to have the same composition will narrow the field of view and helps to avoid messy background. Which one to use depends on the situation/composition and what type of perspective you want to achieve.
In the midst of all these, remember to use a smaller F number aperture = larger aperture if you want to have a shallower DOF.
vincecarlo
Senior Member
small aperture corresponds to smaller open of the lens, this is represented by a larger number f 7.1. This would give more DOF.
If what you mean is small 'f' number (ie f 2.8) ==> bigger aperture opening ==> less DOF.
just remember that small 'f' number means bigger opening and vice versa.
Sunset
Do you use any filter?
retrovox
Senior Member
UV filter.
felixcat8888
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