[RF Technique] Question on Re-composing after metering

[Benji77]

Are you saying that on your DSLR, with full manual focus, you don't have the issue of focusing on the wrong plane?

This Focal Plane issue is inherent in all 'type' of cameras.

As for exposure compensation, I recommend not using AE Mode for easier exposure. Especially in tricky light.

 

[hydroburn249]

exactly. this exists in all cameras when you've already focus lock. moving to recompose, especially with large apertures like f1.4 is bound to move the focus plane slightly.

Are you saying that on your DSLR, with full manual focus, you don't have the issue of focusing on the wrong plane?

This Focal Plane issue is inherent in all 'type' of cameras.

*snip*

 

[leafster]

Are you saying that on your DSLR, with full manual focus, you don't have the issue of focusing on the wrong plane?

This Focal Plane issue is inherent in all 'type' of cameras.

As for exposure compensation, I recommend not using AE Mode for easier exposure. Especially in tricky light.

For me, I only use manual in land/seascape night photography at small aperture. Yes of course I understand what you are raising here, but I'm coming from AF, dynamic most of the time.

Thanks for the tips.

 

[artspraken]

I understand your problem now la.

You are using 50 Lux ASPH.

If you shoot wide open, that means you are shooting at F1.4

The DOF at F1.4 is such that focus area is very thin - when you recompose, small movement can lose the focus. you can only move sideways, cannot move closer or further. Unlike DSLR, you will not see loss of focus during composition on Rangefinder (you are looking through the VF, not the lens.)

If you use Noctilux F0.95, its going to be worse haha! That is why some people buy F2.0 lenses enough liao.

What you experience is normal. Moral of story is: (i) fast lenses not easy to focus if you shoot wide open. Take abit of practice; (ii) you are probably moving too much when you recompose. When you recompose, you must make sure you move sideways only.

For me is a problem on focus/recompose technique at wide aperture. First subject focusing will establish a plane of focus. In order to place subject at say rule of third composition, will have to reframe. For recompose that move camera parallel along the initial plane of focus (horizontal), it still able to have the subject in focus. However if is not in parallel, a slight change of angle will change the plane of focus. Meaning a new plane of focus will change. At wide aperture, the DOF is not deep and hence subject probably will not be in focus.

So far my test for the latter case, I have to lean either backward or forward to get subject back in focus. The easiest method is to stop down for deeper DOF, but I'm just exploring methods for focus/recompose technique at wide aperture. Moving the camera parallel to the plane of focus is probably the safest method yet.

 

[leafster]

@artspraken, jonmanjiro
Thanks for commenting. So far at f2, I can nail it pretty consistently. Not consistent yet at f1.4, I just need more practice to put things right and hopefully things will fall right. I manage to loan a 35mm f2 and it blow me off at f2. Is going to be the next lens I am considering getting. For now, sticking through one lens is a good thing for me to use it within the limit of the lens. I can imagine the challenges at f0.95 now..

Thanks for the drawing, jonmanjiro. I can understand and really appreciate it. Things will change if there is any subtle change in pointing angle which can be affected by our movement. More practices to put things right.

Thanks!

 

[sjackal]

What you shooting rangefinders for?

Critical sharpness is not always important in some genre of photography, and with film and black and white, it can actually gives a certain look.

 

[enivre]

You can try moving your torso back and forth slightly to see how the focusing changes. After you recompose, there is a possibility you can sense where the focal plane is and your body can adjust for it.

It's not easy but not impossible...

 

[leafster]

@sjackal
Basically outdoor capturing natural looking subjects, at times in unfavorable light. Sometimes for indoor portraiture (kids, pets, etc), no particular, but those expression and moment is what I seek. The weight and size makes a different. Not unless I need long tele, I will then go back to my d700. Having say that, I shoot black & white jpg + dng. After comparing color vs black & white image in my workflow, some images that lack of colors actually turns out into nice black & white contrast graduation image. Some don't even need to go silver efex software. I don't dare to say film like image, but it turns out to surprise me.

@enivre
Thanks for sharing. It is something that I have been doing to have a better gauge.