[ Review ] The Olympus E-P2 (Electronic Pen, Model 2)
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Fotophilic
Senior Member
HI Cliiford, thanks for the review. I would like to clarify with you one of your points.
You mentioned that a new function is that in S-AF (MF) mode or MF mode, when you touch your focusing ring, the viewfinder (or screen) will automatically zooms 7x to manual focus assist. Spinning the thumbwheel will bring you to 10x zoom should it be required. And when you stop turning the focusing ring, the view goes back to the entire frame, allowing you to compose without lifting your finger off the half pressed shutter button. This is a great improvement especially for the S-AF(MF) mode which I primarily use all the time.
I thought we have that in E-P1 already? Or is there any improvement that i didn't catch in your review?
I also would like to ask if there are any improvements over the E-P1 in the part where using older manual focus lenses (e.g. those Nokton, Planar, Flekatgon, etc). Or is the same as E-P1, where we have to press the info button to zoom in and focus. I am more looking at improvements (or changes) to the user interface towards these lenses; for example, maybe if we half-press the shutter, the focus-assist will kick in zoom 7x and will go back to normal when half-press is let go. Please advice.
Thanks in advance!
You mentioned that a new function is that in S-AF (MF) mode or MF mode, when you touch your focusing ring, the viewfinder (or screen) will automatically zooms 7x to manual focus assist. Spinning the thumbwheel will bring you to 10x zoom should it be required. And when you stop turning the focusing ring, the view goes back to the entire frame, allowing you to compose without lifting your finger off the half pressed shutter button. This is a great improvement especially for the S-AF(MF) mode which I primarily use all the time.
I thought we have that in E-P1 already? Or is there any improvement that i didn't catch in your review?
I also would like to ask if there are any improvements over the E-P1 in the part where using older manual focus lenses (e.g. those Nokton, Planar, Flekatgon, etc). Or is the same as E-P1, where we have to press the info button to zoom in and focus. I am more looking at improvements (or changes) to the user interface towards these lenses; for example, maybe if we half-press the shutter, the focus-assist will kick in zoom 7x and will go back to normal when half-press is let go. Please advice.
Thanks in advance!
microcosm
Senior Member
Wiki says :
Phase Detection
Phase detection is achieved by dividing the incoming light into pairs of images and comparing them. SIR TTL passive phase detection (secondary image registration, through the lens) is often used in film and digital SLR cameras. The system uses a beam splitter (implemented as a small semi-transparent area of the main reflex mirror, coupled with a small secondary mirror) to direct light to an AF sensor at the bottom of the camera. Two optical prisms capture the light rays coming from the opposite sides of the lens and divert it to the AF sensor, creating a simple rangefinder with a base identical to the lens's diameter. The two images are then analysed for similar light intensity patterns (peaks and valleys) and the phase difference is calculated in order to find if the object is in front focus or back focus position. This instantly gives the exact direction of focusing and amount of focus ring's movement.
Although AF sensors are typically one-dimensional photosensitive strips (only a few pixels high and a few dozen wide), some modern cameras (Canon EOS-1V, Canon EOS-1D, Nikon D2X) feature Area SIR sensors that are rectangular in shape and provide two-dimensional intensity patterns for a finer-grain analysis. Cross-type (CT) focus points have a pair of sensors oriented at 90° to one another, although one sensor typically requires a larger aperture to operate than the other. Some cameras (Canon EOS-1V, Canon EOS-1D, Canon EOS 30D/40D) ) also have a few 'high precision' focus points with an additional set of prisms and sensors; they are only active with 'fast lenses' of certain focal ratio. Extended precision comes from the increased diameter of such lenses, so the base of the 'range finder' can be wider.
Contrast measurement (Contrast Detection)
Contrast measurement is achieved by measuring contrast within a sensor field, through the lens. The intensity difference between adjacent pixels of the sensor naturally increases with correct image focus. The optical system can thereby be adjusted until the maximum contrast is detected. In this method, AF does not involve actual distance measurement at all and is generally slower than phase detection systems, especially when operating under dim light. As it does not use a separate sensor, however, contrast-detect autofocus can be more flexible (as it is implemented in software) and potentially more accurate. This is a common method in video cameras and consumer-level digital cameras that lack shutters and reflex mirrors.
Some DSLRs (including Olympus E-420, Panasonic L10, Nikon D90, Nikon D5000, Nikon D300 in Tripod Mode, Canon EOS 5D Mark II, Canon EOS 50D) use this method when focusing in their live-view modes. A new interchangeable-lens system, Micro Four Thirds, exclusively uses contrast measurement autofocus, and is said to offer performance comparable to phase detect systems.
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My conclusion is whatever works better. PDAF is fast, and it will take a while before CDAF can do anything close to PDAF. But in the coming months, Olympus will release an updated AF system which we can only wait and see how these things work. They achieved so much with their PDAF system is only second to Canon.
Phase Detection
Phase detection is achieved by dividing the incoming light into pairs of images and comparing them. SIR TTL passive phase detection (secondary image registration, through the lens) is often used in film and digital SLR cameras. The system uses a beam splitter (implemented as a small semi-transparent area of the main reflex mirror, coupled with a small secondary mirror) to direct light to an AF sensor at the bottom of the camera. Two optical prisms capture the light rays coming from the opposite sides of the lens and divert it to the AF sensor, creating a simple rangefinder with a base identical to the lens's diameter. The two images are then analysed for similar light intensity patterns (peaks and valleys) and the phase difference is calculated in order to find if the object is in front focus or back focus position. This instantly gives the exact direction of focusing and amount of focus ring's movement.
Although AF sensors are typically one-dimensional photosensitive strips (only a few pixels high and a few dozen wide), some modern cameras (Canon EOS-1V, Canon EOS-1D, Nikon D2X) feature Area SIR sensors that are rectangular in shape and provide two-dimensional intensity patterns for a finer-grain analysis. Cross-type (CT) focus points have a pair of sensors oriented at 90° to one another, although one sensor typically requires a larger aperture to operate than the other. Some cameras (Canon EOS-1V, Canon EOS-1D, Canon EOS 30D/40D) ) also have a few 'high precision' focus points with an additional set of prisms and sensors; they are only active with 'fast lenses' of certain focal ratio. Extended precision comes from the increased diameter of such lenses, so the base of the 'range finder' can be wider.
Contrast measurement (Contrast Detection)
Contrast measurement is achieved by measuring contrast within a sensor field, through the lens. The intensity difference between adjacent pixels of the sensor naturally increases with correct image focus. The optical system can thereby be adjusted until the maximum contrast is detected. In this method, AF does not involve actual distance measurement at all and is generally slower than phase detection systems, especially when operating under dim light. As it does not use a separate sensor, however, contrast-detect autofocus can be more flexible (as it is implemented in software) and potentially more accurate. This is a common method in video cameras and consumer-level digital cameras that lack shutters and reflex mirrors.
Some DSLRs (including Olympus E-420, Panasonic L10, Nikon D90, Nikon D5000, Nikon D300 in Tripod Mode, Canon EOS 5D Mark II, Canon EOS 50D) use this method when focusing in their live-view modes. A new interchangeable-lens system, Micro Four Thirds, exclusively uses contrast measurement autofocus, and is said to offer performance comparable to phase detect systems.
- - -
My conclusion is whatever works better. PDAF is fast, and it will take a while before CDAF can do anything close to PDAF. But in the coming months, Olympus will release an updated AF system which we can only wait and see how these things work. They achieved so much with their PDAF system is only second to Canon.
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microcosm
Senior Member
HI Cliiford, thanks for the review. I would like to clarify with you one of your points.
You mentioned that a new function is that in S-AF (MF) mode or MF mode, when you touch your focusing ring, the viewfinder (or screen) will automatically zooms 7x to manual focus assist. Spinning the thumbwheel will bring you to 10x zoom should it be required. And when you stop turning the focusing ring, the view goes back to the entire frame, allowing you to compose without lifting your finger off the half pressed shutter button. This is a great improvement especially for the S-AF(MF) mode which I primarily use all the time.
I thought we have that in E-P1 already? Or is there any improvement that i didn't catch in your review?
I also would like to ask if there are any improvements over the E-P1 in the part where using older manual focus lenses (e.g. those Nokton, Planar, Flekatgon, etc). Or is the same as E-P1, where we have to press the info button to zoom in and focus. I am more looking at improvements (or changes) to the user interface towards these lenses; for example, maybe if we half-press the shutter, the focus-assist will kick in zoom 7x and will go back to normal when half-press is let go. Please advice.
Thanks in advance!
My test was based on the M.Zuiko lenses as I have yet to use any manual focus lens on adapters to test the E-P2.
I believe without the multi-pin contact which sends information from the lens to the camera, nothing much have changed for the manual focusing process, but with the VF-2, the level of clarity goes to the next level. (Pending on how much light there is). If you shoot at low level lighting situation (like in the pub or something), do expect a lot of noise when zooming in to manual focus.
microcosm
Senior Member
Read the other threads about the jpeg image output from both cameras.
Olympus is far more superior in terms of image quality from camera. Only on RAW they becomes comparable.
Olympus is again one up with the offering of Art Filters, which is getting more and more usable. The Grainy Film Black and White Art Filter is one of those "to die for" Art Filters. Especially when shooting at ISO6400. Lovely lovely effect.
So in that sense, both cameras are not equal.
Fotophilic
Senior Member
Thanks Clifford. Will try it out with my manual lenses when i can get my hands on one E-P2.
Thx for the nice review. now i'm more itch to get it...
but are u sure the Japanese not getting get the black version? how come their official E-P2 is black on their JP website & a couple of Japanese reviewers also showing black E-P2?
http://olympus-imaging.jp/product/dslr/ep2/
but are u sure the Japanese not getting get the black version? how come their official E-P2 is black on their JP website & a couple of Japanese reviewers also showing black E-P2?
http://olympus-imaging.jp/product/dslr/ep2/
clubgrit
Senior Member
I believe you still have to press the "OK" button to magnify when using manual focus lenses (i.e. not m4/3 or 4/3).
However, with the VF-2, it is also slightly more comfortable to use the thumb now, as the angle of handling is changed with the camera near your face, as compared to when the camera is at arm's length. We just have to master feeling around the buttons to adjust settings without removing our eye from the VF-2.
When I tried the high res VF-2, one may not need to magnify for manual focusing, unless the focus point is very small and hard to see.
Sometimes, the magnify by turning focus ring when using m4/3 or 4/3 lenses can get in the way, it is very sensitive, even a small knock or nudge will bring up the magnify view when one doesn't want it. In this aspect, using the manual focus screen mode and pressing the "OK" button is better. Personally, pressing the shutter button halfway as a toggle is even better.
For using the VF-2 as a waist level finder just like when using a TLR or MF camera, like in street shooting, I would prefer to use an AF lens.
However, with the VF-2, it is also slightly more comfortable to use the thumb now, as the angle of handling is changed with the camera near your face, as compared to when the camera is at arm's length. We just have to master feeling around the buttons to adjust settings without removing our eye from the VF-2.
When I tried the high res VF-2, one may not need to magnify for manual focusing, unless the focus point is very small and hard to see.
Sometimes, the magnify by turning focus ring when using m4/3 or 4/3 lenses can get in the way, it is very sensitive, even a small knock or nudge will bring up the magnify view when one doesn't want it. In this aspect, using the manual focus screen mode and pressing the "OK" button is better. Personally, pressing the shutter button halfway as a toggle is even better.
For using the VF-2 as a waist level finder just like when using a TLR or MF camera, like in street shooting, I would prefer to use an AF lens.
microcosm
Senior Member
Thx for the nice review. now i'm more itch to get it...
but are u sure the Japanese not getting get the black version? how come their official E-P2 is black on their JP website & a couple of Japanese reviewers also showing black E-P2?
http://olympus-imaging.jp/product/dslr/ep2/
Not sure. According to Olympus, that was what they said. Unless they are further cutting costs and decided not to release another color for the E-P2. Then everyone is getting the dark grey/black version. Take note that other press releases are already showing the silver/dark brown version.
Olympus is known to change things last minute. I am not surprised.
I will probably wait to get a manual lens and test them out and post my results in the coming weeks. Those who have these lens and adapters should test and post your results.
clubgrit
Senior Member
That would be nice. After all, one compelling reason to have m4/3 is that one can use almost all 35mm lenses, and I see the VF-2 as a great tool to support this.
microcosm
Senior Member
Quote one reviewer : "Even though the CDAF is slower than PDAF, but it lock up to things at night when my 5D MkII fails to". So I guess that answers the question.
microcosm
Senior Member
I believe Panasonic will be working on this. I sure hope that Olympus will NOT get there... unless they can develop something that can be turned off... Noise reduction is killing photography. Video is another thing altogether.
Well... that is just me. The whole world is into this "clean" image thing to the point it is getting ridiculous. If I want clean, I will render it in 3D... duh...
Stills are stills, and there is still something about noise we want to see in photos. Video can be super clean (that is why movies are still shot on film), but what do I know?
When all fail, buy a 5DMkII.
Yeah I mainly shoot RAW so Oly's superior jpeg engine and art filters are not a priority for me.
I might get it if I wanted to adapt all my Nikkor primes but it'll make the
camera a little large. Oh well choice is good when it comes to cameras, then more pple can be happy!
microcosm
Senior Member
Watched 2012 yet? You think they shot this on some planet that they blew up? :bsmilie:
microcosm
Senior Member
That said, Samsung is releasing a new camera in Jan, Fujifilm has something in the works, Samyang is making lenses... 2010 is madness... to your wallet. :bsmilie:
tomcat
Senior Member
What is truly advantageous about the Olympus system over the Panasonic one to me is their built-in IS and ability to AF with all 4/3 lenses. I can always use an external flash with the E-P1 but there is no cure for the lack of IS for lenses that don't have IS or are not CDAF capable if I have a GF1.
Saw the trailer,heard customers comments,not gonna watch it
But yea,3D effects getting better,but the purpose of photos is to have images that look realistic rather than having something as smooth as cream,or smoother than cream ;p- Status
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