Remote Controlled Car Race
- Thread starter jbma
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The car can start moderatly easy during normal starting. But once its runned to half bottle of fuel and shuts off, its very hard to start. And when start, it starts nicely when you are lucky but the engine sound is not very steady.... :dunno: Gotta keep modulating the throttle so that it will not shut off. Like full throttle then brake full throttle then brake so that the engine will not shut off if i leave the car there.. but if leave the car there too long, then try to drive off, the engine sound will be loud but the car will like dunno why all of a sudden loose its speed, then jerk forward abit then the rpm becomes unstable and the engine sound like swallow lotsa water kinda sound and shuts off..Then gotta restart again...
Ok, let me say this clearer..If I add fuel, prime it, then light the glow plug and start the engine, the car starts kinda fast...One to two minute..Sometimes, longer, five minutes...But when the car start, I got to keep pushing and letting go the throttle to prevent the engine from turning off while I fit on the body of the car and secure the pins. Then after that, the car is ready for action...However, the car always turns off when the fuel tank has exactly half the fuel thats left...It always turns off when the fuel is exactly at half level!!! WHY???? Then if leave car idling for too long, then press full throttle, it will gurgle and burp then go off...Bleah!!! HELP HELP....Me using Novarossi .21 buggy engine...So what to do?? Turn the needle screw or the idle screw or the high end rpm screw??? :dunno: :dunno: :sweat: :sweat:
Ok, let me say this clearer..If I add fuel, prime it, then light the glow plug and start the engine, the car starts kinda fast...One to two minute..Sometimes, longer, five minutes...But when the car start, I got to keep pushing and letting go the throttle to prevent the engine from turning off while I fit on the body of the car and secure the pins. Then after that, the car is ready for action...However, the car always turns off when the fuel tank has exactly half the fuel thats left...It always turns off when the fuel is exactly at half level!!! WHY???? Then if leave car idling for too long, then press full throttle, it will gurgle and burp then go off...Bleah!!! HELP HELP....Me using Novarossi .21 buggy engine...So what to do?? Turn the needle screw or the idle screw or the high end rpm screw??? :dunno: :dunno: :sweat: :sweat:
fevernova said:
Rule of thumb is to run it rich first and then slowly tighten the screws in clockwork increament (1 o'clock, 2 o'clock etc) towards lean. You must be able to see some smoke when doing a full throttle otherwise it is too lean. If this happen you could blow a piston and believe me that is a painful experience. Also what fuel are you using?
Dunno but the car when parked too long sometimes would shut off... Then the piston becomes tight... I guess I am running too Rich cause when i release the glow plug, lotsa oil drips out.... Btw, I am using nitro 20% blue thunder fule... Used to use trinity 25% nitro the purple coloured fuel but it runs too hot...
Bluethunder is pretty good and 'safe' fuel to use. I prefer it than the rest. Oil dripping from the glow plug may not be a good indicator if you are running lean or rich as it may be due to the excess fuel left behind when your engine dies. Just ensure that there is smoke coming out of your tail pipe when you do a full throttle. A lot of times people do not realise that they are runnig too lean until it is too late. Do this for a start, richen the fuel mixture by half a turn and run your car to see if the engine will conk out or not. You may not have full power in this stage. If it does not conk out then lean it bit by bit at a clock face increament until you get to the ultimate setting. I have been using Novarossi, Pico, RB, Collari and OS engines and I find that Novarossi engines are value for money. Pico is hard to tune, RB is powerful but a bit on the high side, Collari is very expensive and OS is good for run around though they have come up with some pretty good new models lately.
Think I still have an old Picco buggy engine sitting in the tool box collecting dust. Can't even get the damn Torque carb working. Supposingly very good if you can get it running right. I just can't find the right setting to keep it running constantly. RB would be a better choice, more user friendly.
Went to Winnie's place 2 weeks ago. She brought in Losi and Associated stuff.
Might just 1/10 truck to play around the house.
Went to Winnie's place 2 weeks ago. She brought in Losi and Associated stuff.
Might just 1/10 truck to play around the house.Haven't been to Winnie's for a long time now. I know what you mean about Pico engines. But when you managed to tune them well it can really go. Plenty of torque in those engines. Hey Kit are you going to JB thihs Sunday for the off road race. I may want to go just to shoot the action.
Hey fevernova, as a guide to tuning engines is always to start rich, tune the top-end, then the low-end. It should be done on the track to ensure proper tuning. If you do it @ any carparks and such, running on a track may result in a too hot/cold tune. It's a slow painful process but you will enjoy the result.
jbma is spot on to say that you should always see smoke from the pipes.
Cheers!
jbma is spot on to say that you should always see smoke from the pipes.
Cheers!
jbma said:
Yah, my friend's Picco JS runs pretty good after breaking in with Winnie's husband help. Mine just cannot make it. Think only Winnie's husband can tune those Torque carbs. Didn't know there's a race on this weekend. Don't think I have the time to make that old MP-6 run again for the race actually.
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