handwrittendreams
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ok! thanks man
Recommendation for Event lens
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Blu-By-U
Senior Member
Event is actually a very large field.. What if you need to cover an event like this...
International Monsoon Madness Winsurfing Challenge 11-14 will not do, unless you are only taking the participants on the beach.. The 14-54 also won't do. What would you recommend then? 300mm prime? with the TC-1.4 Teleconverter or the Sigma Sigma 50-500mm?
ok ok...me naughty today...
International Monsoon Madness Winsurfing Challenge 11-14 will not do, unless you are only taking the participants on the beach.. The 14-54 also won't do. What would you recommend then? 300mm prime? with the TC-1.4 Teleconverter or the Sigma Sigma 50-500mm?
ok ok...me naughty today...
microcosm
Senior Member
Actually what you have posted is sports... and usually that is when huge monster lenses are used. Typically events are like cocktail parties, product launch, meetings, etc. And though there are times when you do need a long reach lens, but not anything like a Monster lens for birding. LOL.
snapperkid
New Member
i don't have any problems for bounce flash. I just put a lightsphere or card then viola! Even i don't do so, it's quite OK.
14-54mm is a FANTASTIC lens that I will eventually get.;p
handwrittendreams
New Member
FL-36?
Blu-By-U
Senior Member
You can overcome that but at the expense of under exposed shots. Switch the flash to manual, instead of TTL. Then stop down to say 50% power or 60%. Use manual shutter speed and aperture to compensate for the reduced light. maybe also bump up the ISO to compensate.
The reduced full drain will reduce the time needed to charge the flash.
The reduced full drain will reduce the time needed to charge the flash.
On the FL-36, yes...HOWEVER it seems to take longer to recharge while attempting to do it; now is it because of the power being used for the light, or is the flash being confused by the signals from the camera and interrupting the charge cycle?
The E-300 DOES fire if the FL-36 isn't fully charged (at least accidently in the above experiment I did above)...I didn't check to see though if it used the settings if the flash was fully charged, or if it used settings as if there we no flash whatsoever.
Someone else's turn to experiment! :kok:
Someone else's turn to experiment! :kok:
I think it is the same with E-500. As far as I remember, there is a menu option where you can set the shutter to fire even if the rest of the camera is not ready yet. This means if you press the shutter button all the way at once it may fire before the focus is ready. This menu option is off by default, so the camera will not fire unless AF is ready if not set to MF. I think the flash symbol in vf is just an extension of the LED in the flash. No connection to the camera function, just for indicating succesful exposure and charge level. Anyway, I will try to verify tonight.
And only if the focus isn't locked...nothing to do with whether the flash is ready or not...there's both an SF Release (which is off by default) and a CF Release (which is on by default).
If no one has tried the other flash experiment by the time I get back tonight, I'll look into it; but don't look at that as an excuse not to try it yourself. :nono:
Thanks for that advice. I'm still trying to get a hang of manual set FL-36.
I'm a poor judge on the power setting still.
Ain really have much time to get to know my flash.
The worrying part is that i will be shooting for my friend's ROM in 2 weeks time.
Too used not to be the main photographer for such event and stress is building up this time round.
Reading up this thread do make me wonder if i am ready to shoot for this big event of his.
Have only kit lens and FL-36 for my E-500.
Maybe i should scout around and rent a brighter len and FL-50 for this "event"?
Just curious and a little sidetrack...
Anyone know how much a circular polarizer for kit len will cost?
Trying to shoot more scenery/landscape and less of street photography.
58mm thread size if i'm not wrong. Most likely rushing down to AP or CP or MS after work later.
Thanks again for all in-sight advice...
Well, since no one else did the experiment I did it... :flame:
While the flash is warming up, the camera's settings (in P mode) is as if there's no flash there whatsoever, so long exposure (more than a second)...once the flash is ready to fire the camera adjusts itself to the exposure with flash (1/80th in the case of my experiment).
Hi Mike,
Actually, I did some experiments but had not that much time as I expected and had no time at all to post my answer last night. Anyway, with the E-500 in A mode and the FL-50 in manual, set to fire at GN50 in a dark room I did the following. When the flash was fully charged I fired off, released the shutter button and immediately pressed fully again. The red AF light was flashing, the camera focused but it did not fire until the flash ready light lit again. I did the above a few times with the same results all the time. I remember having done that before I had the FL-50, when I was still mainly using the old T32. With that flash it is no problem, but of course, the camera is not communicating with that flash, so actually it has no idea when the flash is charged or if it is there at all. I think it is not very good that there is no flash charge override. There are times when an underexposed image is better than no image at all.
In my opinion the FL-36 is just too weak for any event with the exception of familly dinners and birthday parties. It charges too slow according to what others say and what I would expect since it has only two batteries. The GN is just to low. Remember, GN36 is only for tele lens. Using 14mm I think the GN should be around 18 or 20 at best. That is not much power. To compensate that, you must enable ISO boost and let the camera use even ISO 800 or higher. You could also try setting to ISO 400 and not Auto. What you gain is flash recharge speed. The fact that the flash does not have to use almost all of it's power all the time makes it charge faster. If you set Auto ISO the camera attempts to use lowest possible ISO and highest possible flash power so it will dicharge fully quite often. Of course, also the battery drain will increase in that case.
I paid abt S$80 odd for the Kenko Pro 1 Wideband CPL from TK Photo...
Yes, the 14~45 is 58mm thread size.
Cheers,
Eric
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