Raynox DCR-250

[ricolarr]

Numnum, though it looks like a crab spider but it is not. This is the young bird dung spider .



Thanks!

For the flash, you can make the 430EXII to be the secondary flash to complement your pop-up flash for better lighting. This can help to give you great soft lighting and shadows if done properly.



Agree that dealing with Raynox DCR 250 stack onto 100mm requires loads of patience.



By adding an extension, your lens f/stop effective rate will drop be 2 stops. Thus stacking another one, will make an effective drop of 4 stops.



If you are using prime lens (non-macro), like 50mm or 105mm from Nikon, stacking the Raynox may be a better option if the lens dia is between 49mm to 67mm.

Thanks NovJoe, if i purchase the hotshoe flash and use it as a secondary flash.
This means that my pop-up will be better off having its own diffuser right? Hmm,
didn't know the reduction of fstops are that drastic, thats alot of depth of field missing
there! Considering i stack a 36mm one that kenko provides, will I still be able to achieve
those smooth bgs?

 

[cichlid]

I know using the Raynox means manual focus.

Besides that, do we need to set any thing on the lens (eg. 100mm marco lens) ?

Anyone can help me here?

Do we need to set the aperture or what is it?

 

[Esthery192]

I am doing so currently for my Nikon 105VR and Raynox 250

Here's an sample pic taken wif the above combination, uncropped, unprocessed.

I am very pleased with this combination to date!

this is very nice!!!

 

[mnmohamed]

Just got my Raynox DCR-250 last week and had only a little bit of time to do some tests.

It works fine with 50mm f/1.8D Nikkor Prime on both manual and auto focus modes. However, seems to couple better with 55mm f/.2.8 AIS. 55mm is a Micro Nikkor and a fully manual macro lens (though D700, D300, etc... can meter). Manual focus is recommended for Raynox for greater control.

I had purchased some cheap, non-metering tubes before and found 2 difficulties with them. 1. Lost the metering because body lost the contact with the lens. 2. there's lot of light fall off and because I don't have an external flash, the shooting became useless with longer tubes. The on-body flash is obstructed by the lens because the lens were extended outward when using the tubes. Therefore, tubes are a good option if they can still provide metering and if a external flash is accessible. On the other hand, it shouldn't be that difficult to find a good used macro lens in B&S section, possibly not much more expensive than a new set of tubes.

I'm also a newbie in macro photography but above are some lessons learned. I definitely agree with the "patience" part involved in this kind of photography. All the best!

 

[justin79]

Anyone can help me here?

Do we need to set the aperture or what is it?

I'm using the Raynox on my 50mm with MC-7 which gives 2 times magification. Somehow I'm still able to auto-focus. I did not set the aperture in the camera at all.

 

[Numnumball]

this is very nice!!!

Heehee.. Thanks!

 

[orionct]

seems like many of you are using macro lens + raynox DCR-250.
Would like to know if the kit lens do good job in macro with raynox DCR-250 ?

has any one tried 500D with kit lens 18-55mm + this superb Raynox DCR-250 ?
if yes can anyone show some photo ?

Thanks.

 

[NovJoe]

Thanks NovJoe, if i purchase the hotshoe flash and use it as a secondary flash.
This means that my pop-up will be better off having its own diffuser right? Hmm,
didn't know the reduction of fstops are that drastic, thats alot of depth of field missing
there! Considering i stack a 36mm one that kenko provides, will I still be able to achieve
those smooth bgs?

To achieve smooth background is also dependable on the distance between subject and background. The further distance between the two with wide aperture will be able to help you obtain the effect.

 

[Cyberian]

This is my take. 50mm + DCR-250. Can't afford a macro :sweat:

 

[NovJoe]

Not bad. Next time, try to focus on the head and eyes.

 

[Victan]

Anyone can help me here?

Do we need to set the aperture or what is it?

Hi cichlid, here is my little input...

Switch the 100 mm macro lens to Manual Focus, rotate it to 1:1, you can check on the distance scale on the lens. Then you attached the raynox onto the lens. On the camera itself, select Manual Mode. Set aperture accordingly, usually use f11 to f16. Shutter speed set at 1/200s or 1/250s with ISO 100 0r 200, depending on lighting conditions.

Therafter, practice and practice and practice by moving camera forward/backward or backward/forward to achieve focus. Note: Most of the focusing range is blurrrrr like sotong. Only 1 sweet and sharp spot, that I call it 'Fun & Power'

Lastly, hoot on the flash and go down to the field and enjoy.

Here's my pic to share.

 

[NovJoe]

Hi cichlid, here is my little input...

Switch the 100 mm macro lens to Manual Focus, rotate it to 1:1, you can check on the distance scale on the lens. Then you attached the raynox onto the lens. On the camera itself, select Manual Mode. Set aperture accordingly, usually use f11 to f16. Shutter speed set at 1/200s or 1/250s with ISO 100 0r 200, depending on lighting conditions.

Therafter, practice and practice and practice by moving camera forward/backward or backward/forward to achieve focus. Note: Most of the focusing range is blurrrrr like sotong. Only 1 sweet and sharp spot, that I call it 'Fun & Power'

Lastly, hoot on the flash and go down to the field and enjoy.

Here's my pic to share.

Nice :thumbsup:.

 

[orionct]

Just got my Raynox DCR-250 last week and had only a little bit of time to do some tests.

It works fine with 50mm f/1.8D Nikkor Prime on both manual and auto focus modes. However, seems to couple better with 55mm f/.2.8 AIS. 55mm is a Micro Nikkor and a fully manual macro lens (though D700, D300, etc... can meter). Manual focus is recommended for Raynox for greater control.

I had purchased some cheap, non-metering tubes before and found 2 difficulties with them. 1. Lost the metering because body lost the contact with the lens. 2. there's lot of light fall off and because I don't have an external flash, the shooting became useless with longer tubes. The on-body flash is obstructed by the lens because the lens were extended outward when using the tubes. Therefore, tubes are a good option if they can still provide metering and if a external flash is accessible. On the other hand, it shouldn't be that difficult to find a good used macro lens in B&S section, possibly not much more expensive than a new set of tubes.

I'm also a newbie in macro photography but above are some lessons learned. I definitely agree with the "patience" part involved in this kind of photography. All the best!

hi mohamed, i am interested to get one, can recommend the shop and price quoted from them?

 

[Victan]

Nice :thumbsup:.

Novjoe, thank you. Your shots are fantastic.

 

[cichlid]

Hi cichlid, here is my little input...

Switch the 100 mm macro lens to Manual Focus, rotate it to 1:1, you can check on the distance scale on the lens. Then you attached the raynox onto the lens. On the camera itself, select Manual Mode. Set aperture accordingly, usually use f11 to f16. Shutter speed set at 1/200s or 1/250s with ISO 100 0r 200, depending on lighting conditions.

Therafter, practice and practice and practice by moving camera forward/backward or backward/forward to achieve focus. Note: Most of the focusing range is blurrrrr like sotong. Only 1 sweet and sharp spot, that I call it 'Fun & Power'

Lastly, hoot on the flash and go down to the field and enjoy.

Here's my pic to share.

thanks man!

 

[mnmohamed]

hi mohamed, i am interested to get one, can recommend the shop and price quoted from them?

Hi Orionct, you may look at the thread below for more info on Raynox. I believe the price is fixed @ 120SGD. I remember hearing few shops sell them but Mcgill seems to be the most popular.

http://www.clubsnap.com/forums/showthread.php?t=189427
http://www.mcgill.com.sg/shop/

Cheers.

 

[orionct]

hi mohamed,

thanks a lot! think will purchase from McGill directly then ...:thumbsup:

 

[mnmohamed]

Hi cichlid, here is my little input...

Switch the 100 mm macro lens to Manual Focus, rotate it to 1:1, you can check on the distance scale on the lens. Then you attached the raynox onto the lens. On the camera itself, select Manual Mode. Set aperture accordingly, usually use f11 to f16. Shutter speed set at 1/200s or 1/250s with ISO 100 0r 200, depending on lighting conditions.

Therafter, practice and practice and practice by moving camera forward/backward or backward/forward to achieve focus. Note: Most of the focusing range is blurrrrr like sotong. Only 1 sweet and sharp spot, that I call it 'Fun & Power'

Lastly, hoot on the flash and go down to the field and enjoy.

Here's my pic to share.

Great advice and lovely pic!

@Orionct - all the best!

 

[Numnumball]

Nice :thumbsup:.

My sentiments:thumbsup:

 

[goenawan]

is it ok to use the on board flash?
im planning to buy raynox too