Pros and cons of DSLR housing - acrylic vs. aluminium


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Nik-enduser

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Dear underwater shooters,

Need opinions of DSLR UW users. Planning to get one, but debating over the pros and cons of acrylic/clear plastic housing vs. aluminium housing. Need more input before putting in the buck for it.

Thanks,
Nik-enduser
 

Why not start asking yourself some other questions.

Why do you consider materials as a decision factor? Is it cost?

If it is cost, then the next question here is weight.

And the following questions would be strobe. Strobes used with optic fiber is cheaper than TTL strobes. And only certain housing such as Nexus and Zillion has heads for usage of both sort of strobes.

I think to begin your quest in an underwater housing for DSLR, you have to ask yourself the first question, how much are you willing to spent ON THE ENTIRE set up, inclusive of strobes, arms, clamps, cables, ports, extensions and domes. From there, you can work out what options YOU DO have instead
 

Well, the question is on the pros and cons of acrylic vs. aluminium. Cost is indeed a factor, but if it was not a factor, I still need opinions on the material as well, which will determine the final decision. I know for instance, a clear housing makes it easier to check the o-ring or water leakage, but is prone to scratches and perhaps warping? Correct me if I am wrong. other factors: weight, durability, strobe compatibility...

any other true UW DSLR users?
 

Well, the question is on the pros and cons of acrylic vs. aluminium. Cost is indeed a factor, but if it was not a factor, I still need opinions on the material as well, which will determine the final decision. I know for instance, a clear housing makes it easier to check the o-ring or water leakage, but is prone to scratches and perhaps warping? Correct me if I am wrong. other factors: weight, durability, strobe compatibility...

any other true UW DSLR users?

Just to clear some doubts its not acrylic.. its polycarbonate very tough acrylic

Alu housing Generally is smaller in size, Almost double the price of the clear Polycarbonate ones.
You cannot see the flood until your flood meter goes off. You cannot see the O rings sittings.

is it prone to scratches? yes, even Alu housings are prone to scratching if you're not careful with it. To protect your housing from scratches you should, keep it at home :)

Or get your bouyancy right and see where you're going and where you land your hands, fins butt mask strobe housing.

both polycarbonate and alu housing feels solid, the buttons are both stainless steel, yes even on the polycarbonate housing, so there's really no issue.

You should make an appointment with Oceanic Focus to drop by the shop and have a feel of both alu housing and polycarbonate housing. Then you can truely know which is more suitable.

There are divers out there using old wetsuit to wrap part of their strobes and housing to prevent them from scratches. but the ultimate best way is to keep it in the drawer :)

hope this helps :bsmilie:
 

Nik,

Because enough acrylic material is used, thermal stability does not really become a factor in better housings like Ikelite. Any decent rig should have a towel thrown over it anyway in the hot sun.

If an acrylic housing scratches, it really doesn't make a difference. If an aluminum housing scratches, it removes a little paint, maybe the anodizing under it if it is not hard anodizing.

I don't think either material is going to make a real difference, just get what you want, it IS your $.

The idea of seeing water ingress BEFORE it gets to the point of triggering a moisture alarm is interesting.
 

First of all, it is polycarbonate (PC) and not acrylics, Second, polycarbonate is polycarbonate, it is not = tough acrylics.

Pros of PC housing:
-cheaper
-can see internal in case of any leakage
-can have some view of how the o-ring seats in the groove. (The claim to have full clear view of how the o-ring seats is not very true, most of the time, some portion is partially blocked)
-corrosion resistant
-lighter in weight (but not really lighter overall)
-most acrylics housings are somewhat neutral underwater
-produced by injection molding, so new models are introduced in the market faster than equivalent Al alloy housings

Cons of PC housing:
-normally quite bulky
-fittings and tolerence are not as precise
-less resistant to impact and scratches
-normally requires a big handle / base as counter weight, so it cause the overall size to be much bulkier
-normally cannot directly attach heavy items onto its plastic parts
-cannot hold the weight and rigidness of a glass element port. The use of acrylics front port element is a compromise optically. Acrylics itself can also be scratched very easily.

Pro of Al alloy housing
-very compact and sleek looking
-most resistant to impact
-normally very precise, including the adjustment levels and buttons
-normanlly able to attach heavy items to its hotshoe
-most Al alloy housing adopts glass element ports

Cons of AL alloy housing
-costly
-heavy, also normally very negative underwater
-no view of the internal except through the tranparent windows
-need more maintenance. AL oxide will also build up on metal surfaces that are exposed
-builds up heat very easily under sunlight
 

PC material have some limitation on stress crack, for instance if you apply some grease on screw and tighten to housing, you may able to notice the crack line after few weeks.

It is also weak against chemical too.
 

PC material have some limitation on stress crack, for instance if you apply some grease on screw and tighten to housing, you may able to notice the crack line after few weeks.

It is also weak against chemical too.

hmm don't seem to have any crack on my PC housing wor..

the OEM ones maybe.. not ikelite
 

thanks for the input. Very much appreciated.

How does one store the housing when not in use? in dri-cabinet, hard-case?

Thanks,
Nik-enduser
 

I weigh the different D200 housing (body only) as follow

Polycarbonate
Ikelite - 3.3 kg

Aluminium
Sea and Sea - 2.8 kg
Nexus - 2.1 kg
 

Ikelite housing a Fuji S2Pro, Ultralight arms with 2 Nikonos SB105's weigh in a total of 7.5kgs. Imagine lugging that up and down short stretches of sand or hilly steps from your room to the dive shed. Free gym weights indeed! Just pay for the camera and housing! Haha!
 

Based on experiece, i find that the alu housings are friendlier when doing night dive photography. Somehow the light travels thru the 'other' parts of the polycarbon and does distract your eye from the view finder... thats when its super hard to focus esp on super macro subjects... or maybe im just doing it wrong...
BTW, my experience is with the S2 pro ikelite housing versus the F5 Sea and Sea Alu housing
 

I've used both types, and really, it all comes down to how comfortable you are with the design. I don't like Ikelite housings .. not because they are poor quality or anything, but because it just doesn't suit me.

In terms of cost .. is there much of a difference after you factor in the strobes, the ports, the arms etc? I doubt very much that cost is so different that the "comfort" of using one or the other will make a difference.

In terms of weight ... the PC housing tend to be lighter ... but for stability underwater, weights are often added - so on land at least, you' be looking at carrying (roughly) the same amount of weight.

Cracking of housing, or oxidation of housing ... at the end .. whichever housing you get, is the best one for you, because you will be using it underwater and taking pictures and not just talking about it :)

All the best with the selection,

Cheers, Jeff
 

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