Process flow for B&W Zone System


Nikkornos

Senior Member
Those who are into black and white understands that only from Zone III to Zone VII, these region records all the details.
Anything below Zone III are all black, and anything above zone VII is white.
Everyone always talk about zone exposure, but it should be completed in development.

Zone system is good for single sheet film because you can record exposure and do development according to one sheet.
120 you can change film back.
135 you may need to prepare a few camera because you cannot develop 135 roll using different development.


The purpose is to make use of exposure and development to compress or expand everything to fit between zone III and zone VII.
This translate to about 4 stops differences in terms of exposures.

I like to share a simple process flow here:

Terminologies: ND = normal development time.

Step 1
Use your spot meter to access the brightest and darkest areas of the scene you want to take.

If the brightest and darkest points of interests are more than 4 stops , development time = ND -1
If the brightest and darkest points of interests are equal to 4 stops , development time = ND
If the brightest and darkest points of interests are less than 4 stops , development time = ND +1

Step 2
Mark on your film ND-1 , ND or ND +1 . Use a sticker, or make note, whatever.
If you have a film back, you may need 2 or 3 to meet the situation. Mark the film back as ND -1, ND + 1 or ND

Step 3
If ND-1, derate ASA rating by at least half (ASA 100 = ASA 50 or 25) ** this is what they mean by expose for shadow, develop for highlight.
If ND = 1, set ASA rating by 1/3 stop over
if ND +1, set ASA rating by 1/3 stop over also

Step 4
Determine the brightest and darkest areas. Take the middle of the two (expose at zone 5).
ie, if the brightest at 13EV, darkets at 8EV, then expose at 10.5EV.
If you Kiasu, set ASA rating by half, and expose again using same method.

Step 5 development

Ansel Adams loved HC110. it is because HC110 you can dilute by 50% solution B and X2 the standard development time.
The increased development time can prevent uneven development when you develop under 4 mins.

For ND - 1, decrease the development time by 30%** you need to try out if using different developer or concentration.
10 sec agitation per 1 minute

For ND , develop at normal recommended development time. at 20C
15 sec agitation per 1 minute

For ND + 1, increase the development time by 30-40% with increased agaitation.
20 sec agitation per 1 minute

You should get a film that fits Zone III to Zone VII. Good for printing, also good for scanning. Minimize work in PS.

Please test out and let me know if I am wrong.
I use this for Ilford HP 4+ and Shanghai.
 

If the contrast is too big, from zone I to zone 9, then you need to introduce ND - 2.

If the contrast is so plain, only 1 to 2 stops, then you may need to introduce ND + 2.

Please comment if you have other methods. Thanks.
 

Suddenly i realise that BOSS Nikkornos is a SENIOR MEMBER!!! :D
 

Suddenly i realise that BOSS Nikkornos is a SENIOR MEMBER!!! :D

We will need to organize a grand photo outing to celebrate this. Master billy's homeground punggol seems like a petty good place. In the name of BOSS Nikkornos, Vege Bird chip upon those in the below listing to respond and prepare to fall in with FBO. Wait for the forum to flash 'LARGE DINO' for the call up!

1. Nikkornos (BOSS!) Toyo 45A/45AII/Horseman VhR
2. Shadowleong (New kid) Speed Graphic
3. mamypoko (Diapers) Speed Graphic
4. paulwhng (Aeroplane Tycoon) Chamonix 54
5. lualua (New Old Kid) Toho FC45
6. Wootsk (菜鸟) Sinar F + Agfa Ansco
7. sfoto100 (DSLR) Sinar F
8. Ah Hong (Gao Shou) Charmonix
9. LoSeng (Photo Developing Professor) Toyo 45A
10. LLKang (The Master) Calumet
11. Foxtwo (Senior M + Pro) Sinar
12. Zguy (Lao Dar) Charmonix + DIY
13. Sweat 100 (TS) Omega 45
14. neoro Charmonix
15. meven Chamo 45
16. DesmondLeong (DL) - Wista 45
17. zk-diq (Flying Tiger old man) Sinar + Linhof
18. Hlop71 (cannot remember if it is wisner or wista)
19. dtkky sinar (if not wrong)
20. Ah Boy (Horseman VH Topcor lenses)
21. Lun Pu Charmonix
22. Verticoastro (Graflex Speed Graphic 45)
23. Volks
24. agape01 (Horseman LE)
25. recap shen hao 4x5
26. Share
27. Christopher Ong, Sinar F 4x5
 

thanks for sharing, :)

this thread and a few threads which you have shared, it is good to compile them into a master thread with links, than you can ask mods Cactus jACK,
togu, or
nightwolf75 in charge of this section to make the master thread sticky.





btw, please keep the discussion relevant to the topic.
 

thanks for sharing, :)

btw, please keep the discussion relevant to the topic.

The purpose of this thread is there were many who asked about exposure in Zone System, then they send the film to be processed by others.
This is not the right approach. Zone system is exposure and development of film hand in hand.
Zone system need to be completed by film developing. So if no developing of film, it is hard to do zone system.

The same idea can be used for Colour film C41 processing.
Unfortunately, Fotohub only do pushing one stop.

So for C41, can use to address the low contrast situation by exposing at least +1/3 stop to 1 stop.
Then ask to push one stop for developing. (ND + 1) This will increase the contrast for better printing or scanning results.

For C41, there is no pulling one stop. :( so hard to do ND -1.
If you develop your own C41, can try exposing by at least 1 stop over, and decrease processing time by 30%.

So for those who relied on an averaging meter all the while, this is a fun and exciting way to increase the quality of the picture.
Film has higher dynamic range than D Cam so you can get much better tonality and shades of grey.
 

Yes I understand, photographer need to establish the exposure index of the film by running series of test shoot/process/printing for zone system. not many people aware of that.

anyway, I gave up shooting with film, darkroom and sold off my large format camera many years ago, hardly touch on this subject since then.





btw, I'm not referring to you for off topic. :)
 

Once Loshen setup his dark room, we can do the exposure index of film by test runs. Back to basics for Photography!

I gave up film, dark room, large formats and MF, from 2001 to 2010 because of kid's growing up and education and work.

I took up photography again after I realized my kid is taller than me. :)
 

Anyone ready to start grade 2 paper print?

Multigrade paper print seems coming also when through corop dark room ready.
 

Anyone ready to start grade 2 paper print?

Multigrade paper print seems coming also when through corop dark room ready.

still looking for someone or some place to dump off my printing paper... maybe 1 day come down for chitchat then later 'forget' to bring home... :p
 

still looking for someone or some place to dump off my printing paper... maybe 1 day come down for chitchat then later 'forget' to bring home... :p

give me if u dun mind ;)
 

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