Nikkornos
Senior Member
Those who are into black and white understands that only from Zone III to Zone VII, these region records all the details.
Anything below Zone III are all black, and anything above zone VII is white.
Everyone always talk about zone exposure, but it should be completed in development.
Zone system is good for single sheet film because you can record exposure and do development according to one sheet.
120 you can change film back.
135 you may need to prepare a few camera because you cannot develop 135 roll using different development.
The purpose is to make use of exposure and development to compress or expand everything to fit between zone III and zone VII.
This translate to about 4 stops differences in terms of exposures.
I like to share a simple process flow here:
Terminologies: ND = normal development time.
Step 1
Use your spot meter to access the brightest and darkest areas of the scene you want to take.
If the brightest and darkest points of interests are more than 4 stops , development time = ND -1
If the brightest and darkest points of interests are equal to 4 stops , development time = ND
If the brightest and darkest points of interests are less than 4 stops , development time = ND +1
Step 2
Mark on your film ND-1 , ND or ND +1 . Use a sticker, or make note, whatever.
If you have a film back, you may need 2 or 3 to meet the situation. Mark the film back as ND -1, ND + 1 or ND
Step 3
If ND-1, derate ASA rating by at least half (ASA 100 = ASA 50 or 25) ** this is what they mean by expose for shadow, develop for highlight.
If ND = 1, set ASA rating by 1/3 stop over
if ND +1, set ASA rating by 1/3 stop over also
Step 4
Determine the brightest and darkest areas. Take the middle of the two (expose at zone 5).
ie, if the brightest at 13EV, darkets at 8EV, then expose at 10.5EV.
If you Kiasu, set ASA rating by half, and expose again using same method.
Step 5 development
Ansel Adams loved HC110. it is because HC110 you can dilute by 50% solution B and X2 the standard development time.
The increased development time can prevent uneven development when you develop under 4 mins.
For ND - 1, decrease the development time by 30%** you need to try out if using different developer or concentration.
10 sec agitation per 1 minute
For ND , develop at normal recommended development time. at 20C
15 sec agitation per 1 minute
For ND + 1, increase the development time by 30-40% with increased agaitation.
20 sec agitation per 1 minute
You should get a film that fits Zone III to Zone VII. Good for printing, also good for scanning. Minimize work in PS.
Please test out and let me know if I am wrong.
I use this for Ilford HP 4+ and Shanghai.
Anything below Zone III are all black, and anything above zone VII is white.
Everyone always talk about zone exposure, but it should be completed in development.
Zone system is good for single sheet film because you can record exposure and do development according to one sheet.
120 you can change film back.
135 you may need to prepare a few camera because you cannot develop 135 roll using different development.
The purpose is to make use of exposure and development to compress or expand everything to fit between zone III and zone VII.
This translate to about 4 stops differences in terms of exposures.
I like to share a simple process flow here:
Terminologies: ND = normal development time.
Step 1
Use your spot meter to access the brightest and darkest areas of the scene you want to take.
If the brightest and darkest points of interests are more than 4 stops , development time = ND -1
If the brightest and darkest points of interests are equal to 4 stops , development time = ND
If the brightest and darkest points of interests are less than 4 stops , development time = ND +1
Step 2
Mark on your film ND-1 , ND or ND +1 . Use a sticker, or make note, whatever.
If you have a film back, you may need 2 or 3 to meet the situation. Mark the film back as ND -1, ND + 1 or ND
Step 3
If ND-1, derate ASA rating by at least half (ASA 100 = ASA 50 or 25) ** this is what they mean by expose for shadow, develop for highlight.
If ND = 1, set ASA rating by 1/3 stop over
if ND +1, set ASA rating by 1/3 stop over also
Step 4
Determine the brightest and darkest areas. Take the middle of the two (expose at zone 5).
ie, if the brightest at 13EV, darkets at 8EV, then expose at 10.5EV.
If you Kiasu, set ASA rating by half, and expose again using same method.
Step 5 development
Ansel Adams loved HC110. it is because HC110 you can dilute by 50% solution B and X2 the standard development time.
The increased development time can prevent uneven development when you develop under 4 mins.
For ND - 1, decrease the development time by 30%** you need to try out if using different developer or concentration.
10 sec agitation per 1 minute
For ND , develop at normal recommended development time. at 20C
15 sec agitation per 1 minute
For ND + 1, increase the development time by 30-40% with increased agaitation.
20 sec agitation per 1 minute
You should get a film that fits Zone III to Zone VII. Good for printing, also good for scanning. Minimize work in PS.
Please test out and let me know if I am wrong.
I use this for Ilford HP 4+ and Shanghai.
Sinar F + Agfa Ansco
so hard to do ND -1.
