Pictures turning dark at high shutter
- Thread starter dotaboy
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Its possible you just need to invest alot of money in it and a nikon D3 system =3
or start some fire, you sure can shoot at 1/4000s anywhere, including your room. :bsmilie: :bsmilie: :bsmilie:
Eh TS, my 30D goes up to 1/8000s shutter speed. I've never used 1/8000s. Does that mean I'm using a white elephant? I think I've shot 10x more exposures than you've read photography books.
Please do yourself a favour and really go and understand shutter speed, aperture and ISO. It is not even possible, in bright sunlight, with the ISO at 100, and aperture at f/2 to hit that kind of shutter speed, let alone your own room, or in a shaded area.
As Kit said, just because your speedometer goes up to 220km/h doesn't mean you have to drive at 220km/h to effectively use your car right?
Please do yourself a favour and really go and understand shutter speed, aperture and ISO. It is not even possible, in bright sunlight, with the ISO at 100, and aperture at f/2 to hit that kind of shutter speed, let alone your own room, or in a shaded area.
As Kit said, just because your speedometer goes up to 220km/h doesn't mean you have to drive at 220km/h to effectively use your car right?
Then u all just have said get those stopepr 5 paint,invest more and etc...
And u though it was me who don't understand apeture,shutter and iso...those are really basic physic stuff which took me 5 mins to understand it all when i was in secondary school science..
So the question now is,if the 1/4000s isn't something whicn can be easily used in a entry level dslr,then why are they incoporating it onto the cam?
If one needs to invest heavily on a entry level dslr to use the very high shutter..then it defeats the purpose of an entry level right?since consumer would rather opt for more professional bodies like d3 or 5d?
And u though it was me who don't understand apeture,shutter and iso...those are really basic physic stuff which took me 5 mins to understand it all when i was in secondary school science..
So the question now is,if the 1/4000s isn't something whicn can be easily used in a entry level dslr,then why are they incoporating it onto the cam?
If one needs to invest heavily on a entry level dslr to use the very high shutter..then it defeats the purpose of an entry level right?since consumer would rather opt for more professional bodies like d3 or 5d?
Kit
Senior Member
Its really apparent that you don't know enough. Spend more time on it.
F1.8 lens? ISO 1600, Super bright sunlight for e.g. sunn beach scene surfing? but 1/4000 is like.. Rather.. Over zealous unless you are a pro photographer. 1/60 will be fast enuff for most ppl.
In response to this one, The reason they have it is incase pros have an "entry lvl" dslr as a spare, and their main one spoils...
Or it could be professions that don't need "nice" photos, like investigations or something, where they can use flash and not mind about "ugly" exposure.
Kit
Senior Member
Nobody's stopping you from using 1/4000. Just don't expect what you are expecting. The camera is telling you that you got it wrong.
gooseberry
Senior Member
On a bright sunny day (no clouds), at ISO 100, if your aperture is about f/1.8, then you'll reach about 1/4000s - just calculate back from the sunny f/16 rule.
Ahh. I tell you when you can use 1/4000. You go out on a sunny day. Aim the camera at the Sun! I ensure you can get it 1/4000.
Man you trying to go against logic here. If the road has a speed limit of 100km/hr, does that mean you cant buy a ferrari? Theres limitation in the physical word that does not allow certain things at certain condition. And just to tell you, its possible to shoot at 1/4000 indoor with a consumer dslr. You just need the right equiment and setting.
Just to say I can obtain 1/8000 if my aperature is 2.8 ISO 200 on a sunny day taking pictures of the Sky
Man you trying to go against logic here. If the road has a speed limit of 100km/hr, does that mean you cant buy a ferrari? Theres limitation in the physical word that does not allow certain things at certain condition. And just to tell you, its possible to shoot at 1/4000 indoor with a consumer dslr. You just need the right equiment and setting.
Just to say I can obtain 1/8000 if my aperature is 2.8 ISO 200 on a sunny day taking pictures of the Sky
In this instance, the best investment is an FM10
Such a question would not have been necessary ;p
J-Chan
Senior Member
or conversely, up the ISO to something like 400 if the TS hasn't got a f/1.8 lens..
you keep saying you understand, but you really really don't.
when on sunny day (ISO 100, 1/125s, f16) the EV is 15, you want to shoot at 1/4000s, without changing the ISO, you have to change the f stop to f2.8.
so for other lighting condition, you need to change the ISO or the aperture to maintain correct exposure if you want to use 1/4000s. do bear in mind most lighting condition don't permit shooting at 1/4000s.
and stop being so "IRON TEETH."
when on sunny day (ISO 100, 1/125s, f16) the EV is 15, you want to shoot at 1/4000s, without changing the ISO, you have to change the f stop to f2.8.
so for other lighting condition, you need to change the ISO or the aperture to maintain correct exposure if you want to use 1/4000s. do bear in mind most lighting condition don't permit shooting at 1/4000s.
and stop being so "IRON TEETH."
mtunlinn
New Member
Yes... It is 100% true that you should be able to use it. But at first, you must understand when and why you should use it.
Do you know how to read (understand) the camera meter? I don't think so..
There is something like this you can find in your view finder. Can be horizontal or vertical depends on the brand of the camera.
"--'--'--"--'--'--"
If the expoture is right, you will see this.
"--'--'--*--'--'--"
If the expoture is not enough, you will see something like this (take note of the star which is on the left).
"--*--'--"--'--'--"
If the expoture is high, you will see something like this (take note of the star which is on the right).
"--'--'--"--'--*--"
let's say you want to shoot a fish in your fish tank (aquarium) and
Conditions.........
(1) you are not using flash.
(2) There is no ambient light (i.e at night and all your room lights are off)
(3) You fixed your zoom (e.g at 50 mm) and your lens has maximum aperture of F2.8.
(4) Your camera is mounted on tripod.
(5) Your fish tank is evenly lit with fish tank lights.
(6) Your fish is moving.
READ CArefully..
First, you shoot full auto at iso 400 (assuming your camera have no auto iso or you are not using auto iso).
-- your camera metering shows "--'--'--*--'--'--" and shutter speed is 1/30 and aperture value is F4.0.
The picture will be nice. Not too dark and not too bright. But because your fish is
moving, you will see your fish a bit blur.
Second, you shoot manual exposure at iso 400. You want your fish to be sharp in the pic (i.e. stationary). You set your aperture to F4.0, and Shutter speed to 1/120.
-- your camera metering shows "--*--'--"--'--'--" (i.e the amount of light enters the sensor is 2 stops under.)
The picture will be darker than the first one but your fish is more stationary (sharper).
That was how your 1/4000 case happens. There is no enough light for your photos to be properly exposed.
Try to use AV (aperture priority) mode and put the aperture value to the smallest value. (i.e 2.8 or 3.5, the smaller the no, the bigger the apperture and more light goes into the sensor).
And aim at whatever you want to shoot. Read out the shutter speed from the viewfinder. That is the fastest you can go for that scene or subject. If anything faster, your photo will turns out dark. You may wish to push up your iso but there is limitation that your camera can deliver.
hope you understand.:sweat::sweat::sweat:
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