I'm also learning too haha.
[ Photography ] - Macro Photography with your FT/m43 gear...
- Thread starter microcosm
- Start date
I'm also learning too haha.
iluvs90
Senior Member
Thanks bro for confirmation and the DIY tips! ^^
Something interesting I came across, a person who uses the Oly 60/2.8 macro for wedding photos 
http://www.digitalcamerareview.com/default.asp?newsID=5214&p=2
Just 2 questions, pls understand my best experience of using a macro prob should be only the macro mode on the 12-50 lens:
For the Oly 60/2.8, as it already gives up to 1:1 magnification, is there a further need for extension tubes? I read that extension tubes allow u to get closer to the subject, is this the only use it has?
I saw the diffuser Hyperfocal built and the ring flash Tsammyc used, has anyone use Olympus' MAL-1 Macro Arm light before?
thank u.
http://www.digitalcamerareview.com/default.asp?newsID=5214&p=2
Just 2 questions, pls understand my best experience of using a macro prob should be only the macro mode on the 12-50 lens:
For the Oly 60/2.8, as it already gives up to 1:1 magnification, is there a further need for extension tubes? I read that extension tubes allow u to get closer to the subject, is this the only use it has?
I saw the diffuser Hyperfocal built and the ring flash Tsammyc used, has anyone use Olympus' MAL-1 Macro Arm light before?
thank u.
Used the light for a brief period at OSC, it's just 2 LED lights, nothing special. You can use extension tubes to get 2:1 magnifications, use more, go in closer, but got limit la, if not you touch the surface of your subject already lol
It's not a need, it's a matter of choice
It's not a need, it's a matter of choice
microcosm
Senior Member
Some old timers believed it is more fun to use reverse lens technique.
Cheaper also hahaha
hyperFocal
New Member
Extension tubes are useful when u need higher magnification, but do note that your working will decrease as u add extension, and light will also fall off. The image quality would not be affected much as there are no glass elements in the tubes. The lens will also not be able to focus to infinity. I've tried the Kenko auto extension tubes : with 26mm extension, the magnification on the Oly 60mm (focused to 1:1) is about 1.74X and the working distance is dramatically reduced (can't remember how close liao). With 10mm and 16mm extensions, the magnifications are about 1.28X and 1.44X respectively.
Alternatively, you may want to try using close up lenses to achieve higher magnification. The quality of the close up lens will in turn affect the image quality. The Raynox line is excellent and affordable. Some close up lenses are highly corrected with 2 elements, like the Canon 500D (not the camera), but are more expensive. The general consensus (from what i've read so far) is that extension tubes are better for shorter focal lengths and close up lenses better for longer focal lengths.
As for reversed lens, the working distance is basically the flange distance the lens is designed for (just think of the film plane as your subject). Nikon has the longest flange distance, i think (tho, not a big difference). You can also couple reversed short focal length lens with a mid telephoto to get even higher magnification. The down side is that the reversed lens will have the rear elements exposed.
Here's a reversed lens coupling comparison :
(Oly 60mm, 1:1)
(Nikon 20mm f2.8 reversed onto Oly 75mm f1.8, about 3.75X, vignettes quite badly, pain to work with)
Btw, the ants are alive and well. =)
Alternatively, you may want to try using close up lenses to achieve higher magnification. The quality of the close up lens will in turn affect the image quality. The Raynox line is excellent and affordable. Some close up lenses are highly corrected with 2 elements, like the Canon 500D (not the camera), but are more expensive. The general consensus (from what i've read so far) is that extension tubes are better for shorter focal lengths and close up lenses better for longer focal lengths.
As for reversed lens, the working distance is basically the flange distance the lens is designed for (just think of the film plane as your subject). Nikon has the longest flange distance, i think (tho, not a big difference). You can also couple reversed short focal length lens with a mid telephoto to get even higher magnification. The down side is that the reversed lens will have the rear elements exposed.
Here's a reversed lens coupling comparison :
(Oly 60mm, 1:1)
(Nikon 20mm f2.8 reversed onto Oly 75mm f1.8, about 3.75X, vignettes quite badly, pain to work with)
Btw, the ants are alive and well. =)
Last edited:
Extension tubes are useful when u need higher magnification, but do note that your working will decrease as u add extension, and light will also fall off. The image quality would not be affected much as there are no glass elements in the tubes. The lens will also not be able to focus to infinity. I've tried the Kenko auto extension tubes : with 26mm extension, the magnification on the Oly 60mm (focused to 1:1) is about 1.74X and the working distance is dramatically reduced (can't remember how close liao). With 10mm and 16mm extensions, the magnifications are about 1.28X and 1.44X respectively.
Alternatively, you may want to try using close up lenses to achieve higher magnification. The quality of the close up lens will in turn affect the image quality. The Raynox line is excellent and affordable. Some close up lenses are highly corrected with 2 elements, like the Canon 500D (not the camera), but are more expensive. The general consensus (from what i've read so far) is that extension tubes are better for shorter focal lengths and close up lenses better for longer focal lengths.
As for reversed lens, the working distance is basically the flange distance the lens is designed for (just think of the film plane as your subject). Nikon has the longest flange distance, i think (tho, not a big difference). You can also couple reversed short focal length lens with a mid telephoto to get even higher magnification. The down side is that the reversed lens will have the rear elements exposed.
Here's a reversed lens coupling comparison :
(Oly 60mm, 1:1)
(Nikon 20mm f2.8 reversed onto Oly 75mm f1.8, about 3.75X, vignettes quite badly, pain to work with)
Btw, the ants are alive and well. =)
thank u for taking the time to explain.
the images of the ant are fantastic. And even though u said it was a pain to work with, the 2nd shot is really good. I can even see the individual lenses in the ant's compound eyes. :bigeyes:
Basic setup with FL300 because it can tilt. Home make diffuser. Never use Raynox coz abit too demanding for old man with shaky hands like me.
Nothing to shout about img...acceptable for amateur i guess.
Really like the diffused lighting on your subject. Nice pics!!!
Thanks. Glad you like it. Manual flash power used and needed to adjust the output depending on color and gloss/matt surface. The img below is easier to control because there wasn't much shiny object to cause hotspot.
hyperFocal
New Member
Nice pics! I see a lot of the more experienced shooters using a similar setup, with the diffuser "cupping" the lens. The light is very nicely distributed and soft. Will try it out soon!
As for manual flash control, it is one of those things I've never been really good at. Is there like a rule of thumb that you follow? And then tweak from there?
As for manual flash control, it is one of those things I've never been really good at. Is there like a rule of thumb that you follow? And then tweak from there?
Last edited:
I usually leave it at 1:2.5 power for the flash. With FL300 build in diffuser on. It doesn't work all the time with that setting. Depending on gloss/matt surface, bright or dull color and distance from subject. Aperture wise, i usually leave it at F13 and 1/125 sec exposure. ISO500. This is my "usual" setting.
Try shooting in manual for few outing and you will roughly know when to tone it up or down by looking at subject and surrounding.
Try shooting in manual for few outing and you will roughly know when to tone it up or down by looking at subject and surrounding.
OMG! Is that a viper?! Fierce! I've only encountered bronzebacks
Yes tat's a viper. Lenses just couple of inches away from subject...luckily i don't need to post this from Tan Tock Seng. :bsmilie:
On a side note. The digital x2 zoom on the EM1 work above expectation. Those with 60mm macro can give it a try. Turn your 60mm to 120mm macro.
Last edited:
Similar threads
