Photography dillema
- Thread starter Jeronleow
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What Shoot mode are you using? I see a familiar situation which I was in a couple of months ago when I bought my Canon 40D along with the Kit Lens. Are you using the "M" mode? It sorta looks like that to me. Recommend that you use the Aperture Priority mode (Av). And for photos with a bright background, use the flash, or use the "*" feature in the back of the Camera panel. Just see through the Manual, should solve much of your problem.
Hi J-Chan it is ok now. Sorry I didn't realize it's private.
Hi technor I was switching between modes and was using P mode more often because I know nuts about the M settings but I have some shots taken accidentally with the M settings. My flash was not powerful enough for that distance. Oh ya a noob ques, other than the dept of field, what does aperture do? Hehe...
Hi technor I was switching between modes and was using P mode more often because I know nuts about the M settings but I have some shots taken accidentally with the M settings. My flash was not powerful enough for that distance. Oh ya a noob ques, other than the dept of field, what does aperture do? Hehe...
That's some nice equipment you have, 17-85 and a 580 ex. I only have a 18-55 and a 50 prime. However, intelligent usage of your camera will win the day instead of nice equipment. As you said, you had better shots with your PnS because you're more used to it. I suggest reading the manual from cover to cover and taking your camera out very often to experiment. I recently got a 40D myself and even though I had prior experience in photography, I still got burnt as I wasn't used to the camera. And this after reading and experimenting with the camera's manual from cover to cover!
Btw dude, I don't think you want to get a battery grip.. I tried it at the Canon roadshow and it doesn't inspire confidence to me. Plus it's extra bulk you don't need. The extra shutter button is really secondary unless you find yourself shooting a lot of portraits. But of course it's your own choice.
Samuel
Btw dude, I don't think you want to get a battery grip.. I tried it at the Canon roadshow and it doesn't inspire confidence to me. Plus it's extra bulk you don't need. The extra shutter button is really secondary unless you find yourself shooting a lot of portraits. But of course it's your own choice.
Samuel
Hi! Another new 40D user here.
The aperture actually controls the amount of light that reaches the CMOS sensor in the camera. Having a larger aperture (smaller f-stop number eg 1.2, 1.4, 1.8) will allow more light into the sensor. This will amongst other things allow you to have a higher shutter speed or use a lower ISO setting. However, as you have noted the depth of field for a larger aperture is much tighter so less of the objects in the picture will be in focus. Makes for nice bokeh though...
Ther Aperture setting controls the light entry into the camera. In other words, its the amount of time that the scene is exposed to the camera sensor which captures the picture. More expose time, (i.e slow aperture speed) means that there is more blur in the image due to the hand movement and the subject movement. The Aperture mode (Av) basically controls this speed, or expose time. Have the aperture to atleast 1/30 or 1/40 and above for pics without blur. The way to do this is increase the ISO setting as well. The manual has detailed explanation for this.
The Av mode is more convenient than the Manual or the Program mode, its good to start using this mode.
The Av mode is more convenient than the Manual or the Program mode, its good to start using this mode.
"There are flood lights all around and I tried turning all angle and the flood light will still glare up the photo. So if it was you guys how would you position yourself and also how would you set your camera for this shot? I set it to P mode because I am still new to it."
one way to avoid the flood light is to use the tele end of your lens.
simple, when u shoot wide angle, no matter how u fill the frame w your subject, the angle of view is wide. much of the background is included, which was the irritating flood light in your case.
in the tele end, the angle of view is narrow, so, relative to the wide end, u ve a much higher chance of leaving out the flood lights.
one way to avoid the flood light is to use the tele end of your lens.
simple, when u shoot wide angle, no matter how u fill the frame w your subject, the angle of view is wide. much of the background is included, which was the irritating flood light in your case.
in the tele end, the angle of view is narrow, so, relative to the wide end, u ve a much higher chance of leaving out the flood lights.
not exactly the rite thing to do.
in P mode, everything is auto. not sure if u can adjust ISO. even if ISO adjusted, the camera will compensate accordingly to get the "rite" exposure. the exposure will be the same as before u adjusted ISO.
compensating exposure using LCD also not foolproof, cus the LCD itself is only a very rough guide. the histogram can be more helpful in showing blown out portions of the pic, but even if certain part is blown, exposure for the subject can still be rite.
hey your brother is in Pasir Ris camp... used to be my camp. It wasnt commando camp back then. I had the previledge of being the first to tear open the new mattress when we first shifted in. Good memories.
back to the photos, do invest on a external flash if you are taking potraits and a lens with a larger aperature.
pardon my newbie comment, my only advice is to take similar photos with different settings. I am pretty new to DSLR and i always play around with the priorities to see wad effect does it gives. just sharing hor~~
back to the photos, do invest on a external flash if you are taking potraits and a lens with a larger aperature.
pardon my newbie comment, my only advice is to take similar photos with different settings. I am pretty new to DSLR and i always play around with the priorities to see wad effect does it gives. just sharing hor~~
Hi thanks for all the advises! Really helpful to me! I will note down every pointers. Meanwhile these are some of my recent tries. Please C&C!! Thanks all!!
Jeron Leow's recent pictures
PS. My bro might be sleeping on your mattress hehehe
I will note down every pointers. Meanwhile these are some of my recent tries. Please C&C!! Thanks all!!Jeron Leow's recent pictures
PS. My bro might be sleeping on your mattress hehehe
1st I would think that you have a good attitude. Posting photos here can definitely help you to collect ideas, techniques or skills, although sometimes it could be discouraging from some people. Yes, once you understand, you will get it right! :thumbsup:
Let's look at each of these photos again.
Blurry group photo
Yes, you really have to avoid facing strong lights like this. Normal kits lens will not able to handle that. If lights is at every angle, adjust your composition lower, you can cover more floor than sky. I believe better lens can do this much better. And it's common to have CA (chromatic aberration) problem at short focal length and corner.
Blurry and glare close up
Obviously focus point is wrong. No matter PnS or DSLR camera, maybe the 1st thing you need to figure out is how does the camera focus, and how does it indicate to you while AF.
Composition wise, usually cover people more in the whole photo. If you want to show the background, maybe putting people at the side.
Blurry and glare action photo
Besides glare as in 1st photo, there's motion blur due to slow shutter speed. Try to hold the camera as steady as possible during shutter opening. Also read the camera setting to prepare for this. Use tripod if possible. If all above are impossible, to solve this you need fast lens. (Fast lens means big aperture lens, not fast focusing lens). And some Canon lens has built in stabiliser feature, but they are more costly.
The reason is low light, so slow shutter. And since there's no foreground light or flash, she became dark. What exactly after that I do not know, you have to recall. Maybe you stil holding the camera, she though it''s done and walk away, so capture some background light at the place where she stood.
I'm not sure whether the photo position has been changed. But I see some photos are not blur at all. Continue to try, look at the pictures effect & EXIF, then you'll gain better understanding.
Photography exposure techniques is about lights. You need to understand 3 variables, shutter speed, aperture & ISO. You can read Sulhan's & zoossh's sticky note to understand more.
Just sharing my little opinion.
I like the above pic. Looks like film negative... haha.
40D is a really capable cam. Your nightshots exposure time is rather short. Why don't you try around 8-20secs but depends on the lighting, etc, aperature f/8-20. If you're not sure, just use A mode then tweak to f10 and try it and so on. Iso 100-200, 400 is acceptable
40D is a really capable cam. Your nightshots exposure time is rather short. Why don't you try around 8-20secs but depends on the lighting, etc, aperature f/8-20. If you're not sure, just use A mode then tweak to f10 and try it and so on. Iso 100-200, 400 is acceptable
Hi thanks yannh that is very encouraging! I don't think she walked off because I told her not to. She studies photography in NAFA under Visual Communication. The photos before that looks ok. By the way what is EXIF? I kept reading it but I do not know what is it. Thanks!!
Hi dennisc I am shooting in P mode most of the time. Have a ques. Whenever I play with exposure compensation the shutter speed changes as well. Eg I go for +EV the shutter exposure time increase and vise versa. What is the difference between increasing or decreasing shutter exposure time compare to increase EV and reducing EV respectively? Can I increase EV by increasing the shutter exposure time instead of using exposure compensation? Thanks!
I don't think she walked off because I told her not to. She studies photography in NAFA under Visual Communication. The photos before that looks ok. By the way what is EXIF? I kept reading it but I do not know what is it. Thanks!!Hi dennisc I am shooting in P mode most of the time. Have a ques. Whenever I play with exposure compensation the shutter speed changes as well. Eg I go for +EV the shutter exposure time increase and vise versa. What is the difference between increasing or decreasing shutter exposure time compare to increase EV and reducing EV respectively? Can I increase EV by increasing the shutter exposure time instead of using exposure compensation? Thanks!
Hi Jeron,
No offence, but what you really need now is knowledge and reading books and practicing with your setup (at the same time, you will know what is lacking) is the best. Ask if you dun understand anything that you have read. But judging from your question on EXIF data, I will presume you did not even read the manual?
No offence, but what you really need now is knowledge and reading books and practicing with your setup (at the same time, you will know what is lacking) is the best. Ask if you dun understand anything that you have read. But judging from your question on EXIF data, I will presume you did not even read the manual?
all you need is the knowledge of basic photography,
buy, own or use the best equipments will not help you in this area.
and also, since you didn't understand the fundamental yet, it is hard for people explain step by step thru postings here, do yourself and everyone a favor, go to the national library and borrow some basic photography books, you will learn faster and more systematic this way.
buy, own or use the best equipments will not help you in this area.
and also, since you didn't understand the fundamental yet, it is hard for people explain step by step thru postings here, do yourself and everyone a favor, go to the national library and borrow some basic photography books, you will learn faster and more systematic this way.
I removed this post. Dun want to start a war. Thanks Dennisc for your PM. It helped clarify things up. *respect*
Jeron,
There is always your method of "teaching" and there are others. For me, I would reckon you could have kept this thread on its track if you had read a little more (seriously, magazines are not a really good way to learn...they are more for drooling over eqpt). But advice from Catchlights and I are really frank and only for your best. I will not comment on Munkey's post though I get the meaning.
You can either try to get spoonfed and learn everything through asking or you can read whatever is available (like your instruction manual) and ask when unsure and you will surely enjoy photography as well.
There is always your method of "teaching" and there are others. For me, I would reckon you could have kept this thread on its track if you had read a little more (seriously, magazines are not a really good way to learn...they are more for drooling over eqpt). But advice from Catchlights and I are really frank and only for your best. I will not comment on Munkey's post though I get the meaning.
You can either try to get spoonfed and learn everything through asking or you can read whatever is available (like your instruction manual) and ask when unsure and you will surely enjoy photography as well.
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