Overexposure


Mind explain how you determine 1/25 and 1/30s are considered slow?

My understanding of Canon camera in Av mode is that it'll consider flash as fill light. Hence it will be metering for the ambient light regardless if flash is on or off. So the shutter speed should be the same with or without flash on. In reality however, shutter will be 1 stop faster for evaluative metering with flash on. For all other metering modes (partial, spot and center weighted average), shutter speed will be the same with or without flash.

Base on my experience with my camera, whenever I use a flash, it automatically sets to 1/60s at both with built-in flash and external flash. Another time it sets to 1/100s (I still do not know why this happens). This is always in Aperture Priority mode.

Again at aperture priority mode, the shutter speed setting is different with and without flash. This is much more obvious during low light condition. This is my experience with my camera.
 

Base on my experience with my camera, whenever I use a flash, it automatically sets to 1/60s at both with built-in flash and external flash. Another time it sets to 1/100s (I still do not know why this happens). This is always in Aperture Priority mode.

Again at aperture priority mode, the shutter speed setting is different with and without flash. This is much more obvious during low light condition. This is my experience with my camera.

See from your sig, you are using Sony. Though I can't say for sure since I'm not familiar with Sony, but I very much doubt what you've said. May be some Sony users can verify.

As for Canon, you'll get shutter speed of 1/60s if using Program or Auto mode.

PS - may be you can test it by mounting camera on tripod and meter on the same spot with and without flash on. Test this out on all the different modes.
 

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catchlights - how do you get the EXIF info. What is the process? I save the image from the forum, but I don't get to see the EXIF. Please teach how to get the info out, thanks.
I'm using a Firefox add on call FxIF, just need to right click on the image and select open EXIF data, if the image still have exif intact.
 

lmao. maybe he left his 580 on manual mode 1/1 power.
 

See from your sig, you are using Sony. Though I can't say for sure since I'm not familiar with Sony, but I very much doubt what you've said. May be some Sony users can verify.

As for Canon, you'll get shutter speed of 1/60s if using Program or Auto mode.

I'm no expert in Canon system as well. I was under impression it would be the same. I guess I was wrong.

Let's look at it logically for "discussion" purpose (anyway, I'm no expert).

Let's say we fix the aperture at let's say f5.6 for example. The cam meters the ambient and sets it 1/10s. I then take the shot and the image is correctly exposed but having such low shutter speed, I get a blured image due to my shaky hands. I then flip up my built in flash (still fix at f5.6). At this juncture, wouldn't it be natural to have a higher shutter speed now since I'm expected to light up my image with my flash?
 

I think 1st thing u have to understand fully wat is EV and Flash compensation, 1 for subject and 1 for ambient
Than you will not go wrong....me still learning
 

Last night, I went back to take a look at my camera and flash, the flash is set at ETTL,not manual mode. Strange, something different as what EXIF have?
ok, that will remind as a mystery.
 

I'm no expert in Canon system as well. I was under impression it would be the same. I guess I was wrong.

Let's look at it logically for "discussion" purpose (anyway, I'm no expert).

Let's say we fix the aperture at let's say f5.6 for example. The cam meters the ambient and sets it 1/10s. I then take the shot and the image is correctly exposed but having such low shutter speed, I get a blured image due to my shaky hands. I then flip up my built in flash (still fix at f5.6). At this juncture, wouldn't it be natural to have a higher shutter speed now since I'm expected to light up my image with my flash?

When you use flash as fill light (which is what Av mode will do in Canon), it means you will to get a properly exposed background and the flash is to brighten up the near subject. Hence with flash on or off, the shutter speed remained the same. Otherwise your bg will be under exposed.

In Canon's Program and Auto mode, it considers the flash as the main light. This will give a properly exposed subject but dark bg.
 

When you use flash as fill light (which is what Av mode will do in Canon), it means you will to get a properly exposed background and the flash is to brighten up the near subject. Hence with flash on or off, the shutter speed remained the same. Otherwise your bg will be under exposed.

In Canon's Program and Auto mode, it considers the flash as the main light. This will give a properly exposed subject but dark bg.

Ahhh... I see. No argument here.
 

When you use flash as fill light (which is what Av mode will do in Canon), it means you will to get a properly exposed background and the flash is to brighten up the near subject. Hence with flash on or off, the shutter speed remained the same. Otherwise your bg will be under exposed.

In Canon's Program and Auto mode, it considers the flash as the main light. This will give a properly exposed subject but dark bg.
according to the exif, camera is on aperture priority (semi-auto) mode, so the shutter speed shouldn't go low till 1/13s.
the only explanation is the flash didn't attach properly, the flash fire at full power and camera still at low shutter speed.

anyway, with or with flash, it shouldn't be using such low ISO and shutter speed in this kind of light conditional.
 

according to the exif, camera is on aperture priority (semi-auto) mode, so the shutter speed shouldn't go low till 1/13s.
the only explanation is the flash didn't attach properly, the flash fire at full power and camera still at low shutter speed.

anyway, with or with flash, it shouldn't be using such low ISO and shutter speed in this kind of light conditional.

This seem like the most likely suitation. Perhaps the room was rather dim so when on aperture priority the speed just drop to match the aperture selected. The flash part should be spot on as this is a common mistake.
 

This is what I would do in your situation. (I'm using manual mode. My toy is Nikon D700)

To use Flash:
1. Set it to Manual Mode.
2. Set Aperture to F/8.
3. Set Shutter Speed to 1/250s
4. Use bounce light. (If the ceiling is not white color, I suggest you use a diffuser)
5. Fire.
6. Review the image. (Too dark - drag the shutter speed or aperture, either all; Too bright - quicken the shutter speed or aperture)
7. Shoot again.

I prefer this: NO FLASH:
1. Set Aperture to F/1.8
2. Set Shutter Speed to 1/60s (assuming i'm using 50mm F/1.8)
3. Fire.
4. Review the image. (Too dark - drag the shutter speed; Too bright - quicken the shutter speed)

;)
 

This is what I would do in your situation. (I'm using manual mode. My toy is Nikon D700)

To use Flash:
1. Set it to Manual Mode.
2. Set Aperture to F/8.
3. Set Shutter Speed to 1/250s
4. Use bounce light. (If the ceiling is not white color, I suggest you use a diffuser)
5. Fire.
6. Review the image. (Too dark - drag the shutter speed or aperture, either all; Too bright - quicken the shutter speed or aperture)
7. Shoot again.

I prefer this: NO FLASH:
1. Set Aperture to F/1.8
2. Set Shutter Speed to 1/60s (assuming i'm using 50mm F/1.8)
3. Fire.
4. Review the image. (Too dark - drag the shutter speed; Too bright - quicken the shutter speed)

;)
hmmmm but this type of photo-taking technique is like the "try and try again until you get it right" pattern. Which means for every scene, it will require some shots before exposure is about correct.
Imagine if you are 4stops off with your manual settings. Assuming you try 1/2 stop increments, it will require 8 shots before something acceptable is captured. hmmmmm :think: not advisable, I would say.
 

This is what I would do in your situation. (I'm using manual mode. My toy is Nikon D700)

To use Flash:
1. Set it to Manual Mode.
2. Set Aperture to F/8.
3. Set Shutter Speed to 1/250s
4. Use bounce light. (If the ceiling is not white color, I suggest you use a diffuser)
5. Fire.
6. Review the image. (Too dark - drag the shutter speed or aperture, either all; Too bright - quicken the shutter speed or aperture)
7. Shoot again.

I prefer this: NO FLASH:
1. Set Aperture to F/1.8
2. Set Shutter Speed to 1/60s (assuming i'm using 50mm F/1.8)
3. Fire.
4. Review the image. (Too dark - drag the shutter speed; Too bright - quicken the shutter speed)

;)
isn't there is a exposure meter for you to take metering reading?

if you don't want to rely on meter reading, how about learn how to gauge the exposure by judging the lighting situation?
 

further to my post #33, there was no mention about ISO settings, which (unless I've been learning something else besides digital photography) affects the exposure as well.
 

hmmmm but this type of photo-taking technique is like the "try and try again until you get it right" pattern. Which means for every scene, it will require some shots before exposure is about correct.
Imagine if you are 4stops off with your manual settings. Assuming you try 1/2 stop increments, it will require 8 shots before something acceptable is captured. hmmmmm :think: not advisable, I would say.

i guess its fine. usually do a test shot, correct. test again, correct. then finally when u get it right, keep the same settings.

metering can also be off. have to consider if ur flash is ur main or fill light, consider if its spot, evaluative or center weighted avg. i find test to be more accurate, cause u still ahve to adjust after u meter too.

my way: first shot, based on camera's metering
then compensate and adjust.

and test again. by 3rd try u shld get it right.
 

i guess its fine. usually do a test shot, correct. test again, correct. then finally when u get it right, keep the same settings.

metering can also be off. have to consider if ur flash is ur main or fill light, consider if its spot, evaluative or center weighted avg. i find test to be more accurate, cause u still ahve to adjust after u meter too.

my way: first shot, based on camera's metering
then compensate and adjust.

and test again. by 3rd try u shld get it right.

Ya. it is the same as what ZCA is saying. use the meter first. Then adjust to liking. Not doing what fastfocusing is doing, start with F1.8 with 1/60s and work your way down to the right settings.
 

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Hey TS,

here's my take on this:

my 580EX II on occasions switch from ETTL to TTL mode. That's when something like that happens. It's apparently a problem on some flashes. Clean the contacts, remove n insert battery, or (the latest one i found out), turn the flashhead to default straight on position it turns itself back to ETTL mode.

Like someone said, ETTL shld take care of the flash exposure just need to tweak flash exposure balance up or down.

On a setting like that, just meter for ambient (use manual) and let ETTL do the rest, don't really recommend using manual on flash especially if u move alot. Too much fiddling with your camera you tend to lose other people's attention/miss moments/blablabla.
 

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