over-exposed with A390?

[mattchlai]

1. For the first pic, did you shot with DRO on? Remember, in a scene like that, it will try to recover shadows, which is not necessarily what you want. So either meter for the shadows (so DRO will recover highlights) or turn off DRO entirely.

2. For the second shot, it still looks ok since I can see the detail on the feathers, though shooting a subject like a swan against a black background is like shooting a bride in her white dress - you would need to adjust the exposure to capture properly, or use spot metering.

1. Yes, the DRO was set to D-R+ (advanced) in AUTO mode. This DRO really confused me...

2. well, i'm still finding a way to understand when to use spot metering. mine is set to multi segment.

all these were my first shots with DSLR.

 

[mattchlai]

You can still turn it off, unless they changed that from the A380/500/550 series. Otherwise, try aperture mode.

AUTO mode will use D-R+. unless you select P/A/S/M mode.

 

[Diavonex]

Start using Program Mode (P) and take control of your camera settings.

Suggest you increase the Contrast and Sharpness for a start.

 

[chanalb]

Don't use auto, use at least P mode or A mode.
For 'standard' setting, set Contrast = 0, Color = +2, sharpness +2
Do some PP to darken/deepen or brighten your pics (I use photoscape which is freeware).
See if this helps.

 

[Diavonex]

.....well, i'm still finding a way to understand when to use spot metering. mine is set to multi segment........

When you are shooting a small subject e.g. a bird on the tree, use Spot Metering.

When you are shooting scenery e.g. City Skyline, use multi Segment.

 

[Agetan]

Your pictures are fine.... as far as the metering that you use, it has done a good job.

However, what you need to understand is, how the metering work.

The pictures which have a lot of tree tend to be darker and force the camera to slightly over compensate the "shadow" to brighten up the scene, hence you have a brighter image.

Pictures of the swan, once again, because of the multi segment metering, the background is lifted (slightly more than the shadow) hence the swan is a little too bright on the top.

Last picture of the building, it was under shadow... so naturally it will brighten the whole scene.

As far as I can see, there isn't any problem with the camera, but I am sorry to say, it is a user error.


----------------
Here is Metering 101....

All camera metering, even on the highest end camera reads 18% grey... that is about mid-grey....

Now, if you point the camera at white - the camera will like to think it is 18% grey and reduce the exposure to simulate 18% grey... so your white will come out "Grey". So to get white, your camera metering should be compensated so it reads +2

Same thing happen to Black, the camera will brighten up your "black" to simulate the 18% grey. So to get black, your camera metering should be compensated so it reads -2

-----------------

You will have to start learning to see where the light is coming and also learn about exposure compensation to counter act the above metering.

Remember one thing is, what you see with your eyes does not equate to what the camera see... and you will have to understand about how different exposure more do to your image.

I shoot manual only as I don't trust my camera to give me exactly what I want... even on the A-900 (although I must admit that they are almost correct on all the time).

One last question, Have you calibrated your screen though? on my calibrated screen, they look fine.

Hope it helps.

Regards,

Hart

 

[Rashkae]

Also, it's a good idea to learn how to read a histogram.

And the "issues" you are seeing are not specific to the A390, or Sony even - This is behavior you'll see from pretty much any camera.

 

[Ghostfit]

somehow most of the pictures that i have taken with my A390 came with an hazy effect?

NO filter, NO lens hoods. What's wrong? Need some advice. Thanks!

Bro, lens hoods do NOT cause 'hazy effect' ...in fact, they are suppose to prevent it (ghosting and flaring)

Alot of lens hood out there are BS but for those (designed specifically for the lens) that works, they make a world of differences !!!

I can see flares in some of your picts.

 

[mattchlai]

thanks for all the input. in fact i'm new to the DSLR so what i could do is to rely on AUTO mode first. i think from now onwards i will try on other mode like P or A. And most importantly, i didn't suspect the camera giving those issues, but somewhere the settings or my skills didn't get the things right. this is why i have posted my pictures here asking u guys for the opinions so that i can improve them for my next shots. i think i really have to understand the metering more.

How to calibrate the screen? can teach me?

and another term 'histogram' comes into my learning stage again...

my initial thought was that if lens hood will help to prevent this effect? now i learnt that it was all about the metering!

 

[chanalb]

----------------
Here is Metering 101....

All camera metering, even on the highest end camera reads 18% grey... that is about mid-grey....

Now, if you point the camera at white - the camera will like to think it is 18% grey and reduce the exposure to simulate 18% grey... so your white will come out "Grey". So to get white, your camera metering should be compensated so it reads +2

Same thing happen to Black, the camera will brighten up your "black" to simulate the 18% grey. So to get black, your camera metering should be compensated so it reads -2

-----------------

Just a query, does +2 mean +0.7EV or +2 EV? Ditto for -2?

 

[Aimevous]

thanks for all the input. in fact i'm new to the DSLR so what i could do is to rely on AUTO mode first. i think from now onwards i will try on other mode like P or A. And most importantly, i didn't suspect the camera giving those issues, but somewhere the settings or my skills didn't get the things right. this is why i have posted my pictures here asking u guys for the opinions so that i can improve them for my next shots. i think i really have to understand the metering more.

How to calibrate the screen? can teach me?

and another term 'histogram' comes into my learning stage again...

my initial thought was that if lens hood will help to prevent this effect? now i learnt that it was all about the metering!

To calibrate the screen, you'll need something like Datavision's Spyder.. Can cost you quite a bit, or you can rely on Window's calibration software.. that one have to rely on your eyes... so it might not be too accurate..

Histogram is basically the distribution of the colors from light to dark...

Just a query, does +2 mean +0.7EV or +2 EV? Ditto for -2?

nope +2 means +2eV.