[ Opinion/Advice ] - e620 + 50-200mm non-SWD for F1?

[albertri]

Probably no one needs an update but here goes anyway:

On the ground, the 40-150mm should get sufficient reach, provided one gets an optimal spot as near the fence as possible. But even then, the greatest obstacle would be the "low" walls (for cushioning the cars' impact) which for me was still pretty darn high and blocks sight of the road. So I doubt I can get a clear shot of the car if I'm walking about. Note that I only checked out turns 16 and 19 so I'm not sure about the situation at other areas.

From the stands, the 40-150mm is neither long enough, nor fast enough because I'm sadly seated pretty far up and on a straight section, rather than turn.

Hopefully others who are going for tomorrow's practice session can report back with their findings.

have you ever tried 70-300mm? it's alot more cheaper than 50-200 non swd B&H selling I think for 300USD

 

[spidey89]

have you ever tried 70-300mm? it's alot more cheaper than 50-200 non swd B&H selling I think for 300USD

OMG! 70-300 is slower! :bsmilie:

 

[microcosm]

The following images were shot by 50-200mm non SWD on manual focus at the first F1 race.

Note that I like noise and the image treatment was intentional.

So you see, it will turn out ok for you to use the combination you were asking. So go shoot in peace. Positioning yourself right would be the best thing for you. Not just the gear.

 

[albertri]

The following images were shot by 50-200mm non SWD on manual focus at the first F1 race.

Note that I like noise and the image treatment was intentional.


So you see, it will turn out ok for you to use the combination you were asking. So go shoot in peace. Positioning yourself right would be the best thing for you. Not just the gear.

wow I thought shooting through the chicken wire wont produce a decent shot

nice shots!

 

[albertri]

OMG! 70-300 is slower! :bsmilie:

But 40-150 is also the same right? f4-5.6 I think she's better off with 50-200 f2.8-3.5

 

[spidey89]

But 40-150 is also the same right? f4-5.6 I think she's better off with 50-200 f2.8-3.5

Haha,I was talking about focusing speed, unless you're using MF then disregard what I said :bsmilie:

 

[napalmdog]

yeah 70-300mm is a bit slow in focusing as it's also a macro lens

 

[arctos]

so is the 40-150 kit good enough? I only have a zone 4 walkabout pass....

For reach, I think it will be enough. ISO will have to be compromised though as it's only F6.3 on the tele end. But of course, if you don't mind noise like microcosm then it shouldn't pose an issue (with manual pre-focus. Auto focus won't make it, not for my e620 anyway.)

The following images were shot by 50-200mm non SWD on manual focus at the first F1 race.

Note that I like noise and the image treatment was intentional.

So you see, it will turn out ok for you to use the combination you were asking. So go shoot in peace. Positioning yourself right would be the best thing for you. Not just the gear.

Yup, except that now I'm going with the 40-150mm F4.0-6.3, not the 50-200mm because I couldn't get my hands on one. Just as well, because I'm dead tired after baking and running about under the sun for a whole day today at Sentosa. Wouldn't want to lug the ~1kg 50-200mm about.

And frankly, I think I'll have a bigger issue with panning as opposed to gears. I can't even get a taxi in focus, so I wouldn't dare hope too much for a F1 car. :embrass:
(And I sure hope I didn't give all the poor drivers driving past the bay grandstand on Tuesday a fright mistaking me for a traffic police spy. :bsmilie

have you ever tried 70-300mm? it's alot more cheaper than 50-200 non swd B&H selling I think for 300USD

It won't arrive in time lah! :sweat:

 

[albertri]

For reach, I think it will be enough. ISO will have to be compromised though as it's only F6.3 on the tele end. But of course, if you don't mind noise like microcosm then it shouldn't pose an issue (with manual pre-focus. Auto focus won't make it, not for my e620 anyway.)



Yup, except that now I'm going with the 40-150mm F4.0-6.3, not the 50-200mm because I couldn't get my hands on one. Just as well, because I'm dead tired after baking and running about under the sun for a whole day today at Sentosa. Wouldn't want to lug the ~1kg 50-200mm about.

And frankly, I think I'll have a bigger issue with panning as opposed to gears. I can't even get a taxi in focus, so I wouldn't dare hope too much for a F1 car. :embrass:
(And I sure hope I didn't give all the poor drivers driving past the bay grandstand on Tuesday a fright mistaking me for a traffic police spy. :bsmilie



It won't arrive in time lah! :sweat:

What??? maybe because of your belt bag

There was some practice run this afternoon around 3:30~4PM was in the office (One MArine) man even at 16th/22nd floor could hear the F1 roaring what more you seated beside the track hehehe

 

[kuanwk]

The following images were shot by 50-200mm non SWD on manual focus at the first F1 race.

Note that I like noise and the image treatment was intentional.

So you see, it will turn out ok for you to use the combination you were asking. So go shoot in peace. Positioning yourself right would be the best thing for you. Not just the gear.

same turn, same lens, urs is sharp, mine is off..
looks like changing system not gonna solve my problem, so mite as well save the $$.. :think:

 

[albertri]

same turn, same lens, urs is sharp, mine is off..
looks like changing system not gonna solve my problem, so mite as well save the $$.. :think:

Bro he's a pro and I bet had experience in such events before so he knows what to do... I think it's mostly got to do with the technique...

 

[spidey89]

Bro he's a pro and I bet had experience in such events before so he knows what to do... I think it's mostly got to do with the technique...

Technique and practice and experience

 

[Sispecho]

micro.... awesome images man...

well at the end of the day is you have to know what your gear can and cannot do for you. If it cant, you have gotta do-it-yourself. prefocus. its easy on the 620 just turn to live view to assist ocus if need be.

 

[microcosm]

drakon09 will reply like this :

Sports Photography = Positioning yourself + Manual Focus/Pre-focus. (Heck, Manual everything!)

Just add click. :bsmilie:

That is the technique.

The only AF system I know of that can keep up with a F1 car is the one God designed (your eye). Sometimes that cannot keep up as well (when you are close to the track on a straight). Much less an camera AF with a AF processor slower than a locust's brain.

Some shooting tips (might not be the best but something to start with since I don't like shooting sports and the F1 shots you see above is my first attempt at shooting racing cars) :

- Always shoot at the corners. ALWAYS. If you are hoping to catch a panning shot on the straight... you must be very good. If you are standing by the track on a straight and caught a killer panning shot, you are on your way to be head of sports photography in any international news agency. Heck, you can make more money as a mercenary or professional killer. You have reaction faster than a frigging cat.
- Stay as close to the "chicken wire" as possible. The working distance of the tele lens will make the "chicken wire" disappear. (See samples above).
- Meter correctly to get that theatrical effect I did. And a little post processing will complete the picture.
- Don't be greedy to try to cover a big area. Pre-focus on a specific spot and hope that the next car will be there. Noticed my cars were all in the same place? (First two shots). That was the part where I found two spot lights converging thus giving me almost double the light intensity. The other shot was were I found drivers going a little too wide will end up having their front end lifting, causing them to brake hard (and slow down quite a bit) which gives me the opportunity to get the shot.
- Color balance in advance. If you have a camera with live view, use that to quickly set the color balance manually. Shoot off some shots and check the "white" in the shots to see if they are ok. Add a little warmth to bring out the reds on the cars if you want. If you are mad, use a polariser. It will make the cars look even better. But you lose light (f-stops). A Nascar pro once mentioned that was how he shot glossy sportscars in night races.
- Put down the frigging camera when you are not shooting! Unless you are spidey. Otherwise, use that frigging strap and rest your arms. If you cannot hear a car coming, then put the camera down and ogle at a hot chick (or guy) or something.
- DRINK LOADS OF WATER, NOT COFFEE. Caffeine will make you vibrate like a jack hammer on low setting.... bad for handheld photography especially when using teles. And chill on the smokes if you are a smoker. Unless you learn how to count the "in between beats" of your heart beat.
- Be patient and stay focused. When you missed the first few shots, try again. Think about the settings, and bump things up or down and try for the next three or four shots. There are still more races to come. If you cocked up this year, there is always next.
- Don't attempt ridiculous shots that is beyond your skill level. You will be disappointed. You want to practise getting a killer panning shot? Shoot Honda Cubs (those small but loud Malaysian mopeds/motorcycles) in JB during supper. They have pathetic street lights... perfect for low light panning shots. Don't practise at a F1 race. You might hit someone in the face with that lens of yours. BUT NEVERTHELESS, BECAUSE OF THE SPEED OF THE CARS, YOU NEED TO DO SLIGHT PANNING EVEN AT HIGHER SHUTTER SPEEDS BECAUSE THE CARS ARE REALLY QUICK FAST. (Sorry for the all-caps).
- Don't think other brand gears are better. Every brand produces crap shots. It is the photographer, not the gear. If you cannot handle a D3, that is only going to produce rubbish shots, the difference if you paid more money to produce rubbish.

Irrelevant yet relevant tip : You should have taken your shooting range lessons more seriously while in the army. I shot everything handheld. No tripod, nothing. Breathing and staying calm is everything.

Heck, if I am in Singapore, I would like to take the Pen out for the F1 and get some shots. It is highly do-able. Shutter lag or whatever complaints everyone have. You can time these things. It is really possible. I can imagine a manual tele lens getting the killer shot already. If you are not using the VF2, mount the VF1 (optical viewfinder) to help you with the basic panning shots.

I am not 100% perfect in the advise above, but at least it helps you start somewhere. I am not a pro with sports photography. Just applying what I have learnt in street photography into motor sports. It worked very well when I shot a bike race in Tuas once. Really fun.

 

[StFubar]

damn... looking at the pics of the 2008 cars.... Boy were they beautiful.....

 

[microcosm]

damn... looking at the pics of the 2008 cars.... Boy were they beautiful.....

Yup. I have to agree with you on that. The 2009 season changes made those cars look so... weird?? I still think the 2007/8 cars were the nicest.

 

[Evilmerlin]

I was at the same turn and first time shooting F1 and boy was it hard. Trying to get the car while in the "in-focus" zone was a pain. But good experience, next year can try again.

 

[StFubar]

Yup. I have to agree with you on that. The 2009 season changes made those cars look so... weird?? I still think the 2007/8 cars were the nicest.

yeap yeap. 2008 imo, was the ultimate iteration of what aerodynamics in F1 would be. I still wanna hear a 3.0l V10 before I die....

 

[microcosm]

I was at the same turn and first time shooting F1 and boy was it hard. Trying to get the car while in the "in-focus" zone was a pain. But good experience, next year can try again.

Shucks, I forgot to mention, once you have have the spot in focus and waiting, you open the other eye outside the viewfinder to see if there is a car coming in from afar... that will help you judge when to hit the shutter button. Make sense there?

 

[microcosm]

yeap yeap. 2008 imo, was the ultimate iteration of what aerodynamics in F1 would be. I still wanna hear a 3.0l V10 before I die....

Don't have to wait too long... £1,200 for a short advanced/track driving course at Silverstone. You can be in one! They have quite a line up of supercars too... and insurance covers crashes and accidents.