I remember OM3T used to cost as much as M-6. About 2000~3000$.
OM4T was about half the price of OM3T. OM2sp half the price of OM4T.
Olympus OM Users
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I remember OM3T used to cost as much as M-6. About 2000~3000$.
OM4T was about half the price of OM3T. OM2sp half the price of OM4T.
The battery leak problem is only found in the early batch of OM4, not known for OM2SP.
The battery drain problem, the battery will die within a day or less.
Have to change the circuit board to solve the problem or some user will switch the mode to "B" to prevent battery drain. However, the spare parts has been discon long time ago.
When the OM-4Ti first launched, price at $1200 and gradually increased to $1600 sold at some place. I decided on the OM-4Ti (based on the built, multi spot metering and other features) over the Nikon F3 with no regret.
i read the OM series manual, http://www.olympusamerica.com/cpg_section/cpg_brochuresmanuals.asp
for OM-2SP, if you set programme mode, and set the aperture smallest number, then the camera will automatically set aperture and shutter for shot? it seems this programme mode is not on OM-4T anymore..
For OM-4T, there are spot metering and can go up to 8 point and becomes multi-spot metering.. actually i wonder is multi-spot metering makes sense? the example using for it is a ballet dancer sitting beside a bright big windows..so multi-spot meter the dancer, the indoor wall left and right side.. but i feel like just single-spot the dancer may just do the job right? if the dancer needs same exposure with the wall, then multi-spot is meaning less, and if dancer and wall needs different level exposure, you got to choose that you want dancer or wall to be the 'right' exposure you want..
i wonder how OM users have opinion on those different exposure on different OM bodies?
for OM-2SP, if you set programme mode, and set the aperture smallest number, then the camera will automatically set aperture and shutter for shot? it seems this programme mode is not on OM-4T anymore..
For OM-4T, there are spot metering and can go up to 8 point and becomes multi-spot metering.. actually i wonder is multi-spot metering makes sense? the example using for it is a ballet dancer sitting beside a bright big windows..so multi-spot meter the dancer, the indoor wall left and right side.. but i feel like just single-spot the dancer may just do the job right? if the dancer needs same exposure with the wall, then multi-spot is meaning less, and if dancer and wall needs different level exposure, you got to choose that you want dancer or wall to be the 'right' exposure you want..
i wonder how OM users have opinion on those different exposure on different OM bodies?
windraider
Member
I suppose multi-spot was an alternative to matrix or evaluative metering available in other brands of cameras.
Multispot allowed you to determine which parts of the scene were important and the metering system would provided an exposure value that would be suitable for that range in exposure difference. I suppose this was more accurate and allows user greater control over exposure, but was slower than matrix or evaluative metering.
Personally I prefer centre-weighted metering with a spot metering & exposure lock ability.
OM-2SP would probably be sufficient for my requirements but would still prefer a OM-4T.
However I'm quite satisfied with my OM-2n (bang for the buck) and can't justify spending more than $400 for a OM-4T.
Multispot allowed you to determine which parts of the scene were important and the metering system would provided an exposure value that would be suitable for that range in exposure difference. I suppose this was more accurate and allows user greater control over exposure, but was slower than matrix or evaluative metering.
Personally I prefer centre-weighted metering with a spot metering & exposure lock ability.
OM-2SP would probably be sufficient for my requirements but would still prefer a OM-4T.
However I'm quite satisfied with my OM-2n (bang for the buck) and can't justify spending more than $400 for a OM-4T.
I'm having the 18mm Zuiko and it is a fantastic super wide angle lens and comes in handy if my 21/3.5 can't do the job. As usual for super wide angle lens, the person must stay away from the edge of the frame. Else the person will inevitably get distorted.
To use filter, you need to use the 49 to 72 step up ring which is hard to find.
Alternatively the Tokina 17/3.5 is a good alternative too at a much cheaper price.
I don't have the 16mm FE lens and this is a very compact lens. However, if I have this lens, I don't think it would be used as often as the 18mm due to the FE effect.
slacker123
Senior Member
received a mint condition oly OM-1 today. 35 years old according to the original owner - bought in 1972.
where may I find the necessary silver?/mercury? battery to power the light meter? any clue anyone?
thanks
where may I find the necessary silver?/mercury? battery to power the light meter? any clue anyone?
thanks
You're welcome.
No problem for me cos I'm having the original 49 to 72 step up ring.
.Oh yes by the way, the 16mm FE has built in colour fiters.
cheers
my dad has an om-1 with a makinon 35-105 f3.5-4.5.
a peek through the viewfinder gives me a clouded view. the lens is super fungused, and the flash hotshoe seems to be cracked as well. any idea how i could salvage this old timer, or is it even worth doing so?
Not sure is the clouded view finder due to the lens fungus or the fungus on the viewfinder itself?
Well, I don't think is worth the cost to have the lens cleaned. Use it as a paper weight instead. Better to get used lenses instead and if you are keen, I've the Zuiko 28/F3.5 and Zuiko 75 to 150/F4 to sell.
As minor crack for the cracked hot shoe, use epoxy glue for it. At least able to "extend" the life of it. A second hand hot shoe is hard to find these days.
cheers
Congrats on a rare gem.
It is not easy to find the MR9 mercury battery (1.35v) and you cannot use the LR44 (1.5v) as substitute where it will give you a false reading.
Alternatively you can look for the battery converter something like :
http://www.smallbattery.company.org.uk/sbc_mr9_adapter.htm
Or DIY version :
http://olympus.dementia.org/Hardware/PDFs/batt-adapt-US.pdf
Good luck.
cheers
my dad has an om-1 with a makinon 35-105 f3.5-4.5.
a peek through the viewfinder gives me a clouded view. the lens is super fungused, and the flash hotshoe seems to be cracked as well. any idea how i could salvage this old timer, or is it even worth doing so?
My OM1 got funugs at glass behind viewfinder but no problem for shooting.
However selling soon as never use and it's a waste to keep in dry cabi.
hi i got my olympus OM2n, i saw many picture that show the a random pattern shutter curtain.. but i look at mine it is just a mirror.. but when i click..i kind of see that random pattern flashing..how to activate it?
the random pattern is seem in this link..http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/classics/olympusom1n2/om2/htmls/index2.htm
the random pattern is seem in this link..http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/classics/olympusom1n2/om2/htmls/index2.htm
Rangefinder_fan
Senior Member
@ Lens. I think the random pattern there for the light meter to take a reading before the shutter curtains open. You'll be able to see it if you set it to MLU mode.
Hi friends of olympus user.
After much searching in flickr , I decided to form a group "olympus - singapore" http://flickr.com/groups/olympus-singapore/
Please feel free to join the group if u are a olympus user.
Thanks
After much searching in flickr , I decided to form a group "olympus - singapore" http://flickr.com/groups/olympus-singapore/
Please feel free to join the group if u are a olympus user.
Thanks
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