Olympus Mju Series

[happimonster]

Hi Hi,

Anyone using Olympus Mju 410 to take underwater photos? Can you share some tips/advices/experiences as to take better/good pictures?
I have put it to Auto Program mode and most came out with lots of back-scatter...

Thanks in advance!

 

[davidlkh]

If the water is super duper clear, there probably will be very little back scatter. Very hard to get ZERO.

Since this is a rare occasion, even if in Layang Layang or Maldives... etc, then it boils down to technique, NOT the camera.

Whether Mju or not, I think the following general guidelines still apply.

If you try the shot in black and white, and turn off the flash, back scatter will go away.

In fact if you are doing some kind of wreck photo, it probably is OK to turn up the ISO and take the photo with NO flash. No matter what that tiny strobe or even medium sized strobe will NOT fill the wreck with light. So you can do some wide angle stuff with NO flash.

Try and reduce the water column between you and the subject. This reduces the quantity of suspended matter between you and the subject. Hence less back scatter.

Try NOT to have a open blue/black background. This means fill the background with a coral or Diver.

Try and angle the light to hit the subject.

The only difference between Program mode and others maybe that you cannot turn off the strobe or control strobe power. I do not own a Mju, so cannot tell what the camera can and cannot do when in "P" mode.

No matter what it is NOT the program mode causing the back scatter, it is the technique.

....

There are many ways to reduce back scatter, it is a lot easier to explain if we can see the photo to explain a possible solution.

 

[happimonster]

Hey David,

I'm really a newbie & many thanks for your advices!

I know it sounds quite stupid... but how do i decide when to use flash (i don't have any external strobe) or when not to use @ about 12-15m where it's still quite bright underwater?

Here's some 3 examples of my photos:
http://www.photoworks.com/share/shareLanding.jsp?shareCode=A061423BE6E&cb=PW

 

[davidlkh]

Most cases there always is NOT enough light, so by default flash is ON.

In cases where you want to try black and white where there is no color anyway, just gray scale, you might as well turn off the strobe. Shoot the photo just like that.

If your are trying to shoot wide angle stuff with your Mju, there is no way the internal strobe can reach or cover the distance or spread, again might as well turn off the strobe (there always will be an exception).

Photo 1, I guess you took the photo shallow with great lighting. No scatter and dull colors so probably strobe was OFF.

To improve photo 1:
The fish are a bit blur, this means the speed is too slow. If you want nice sharp fish that are in constant motion, you need to somehow use high shutter speed. This means 100 and above, in this case probably 125. If your camera only has auto something, then choose sports mode.

Next advise since the bottom part has coral and the tiny strobe is at the top of the camera, turn on the strobe and shoot the photo holding the camera upside down. The bottom coral will catch most of the light and block it from going up. This also helps minimize back scatter. The coral and colors also come to life.

Photo 2, strobe is on and too far away.

To improve photo 2:
Get closer and take an angled shot of the feather star with the coral in the background. You can try the upside down technique again, but do not think it will help in this circle object case.

Photo 3, strobe is on and too far away.

To improve photo 3:
Not easy to get closer to the stingray. I would try and follow it and wait for it to rest. The slowly approach from the front and get a nice tight shot of the face instead of side.

The tiny strobe of the camera simply has very little power, so it cannot reach the main subject. It only has enough power for maybe 1 meter or less distance underwater. So you have to choose a technique and style that suits your camera.

Your first shot was actually not too bad, but try it upside down with the flash and macro on.

 

[happimonster]

Don't really have the opportunity to follow Mr Ray (though i really wanna to) cos i usually dive with my friends who don't have underwater camera. :dunno:

Thanks for the detailed analysis! Will definitely try it out for my next dive trip. :think:

 

[davidlkh]

Photo 1

Forgot to mention, when diving shallow you are frequently subjected to the motions of the waves. So not only are the Damsels dancing around, you are also swaying with the waves.

So subject is moving and so are you, you might even want to try a shutter speed of 200. If it is dead calm probably could get away with 125.

All Photos:

By the way, can you select the photos and view the properties and tell us the selected ISO, shutter speed and aperture f stop.

I am guessing a shutter speed 60 - 90 and f stop 2.8 - 4

 

[happimonster]

Hmmm.... my camera do not have sports mode... I can only increase/decrease ISO and changing the WB to suit Sunny/Cloudy/Cool Lights/Warm Lights...

OK, here's the details:
Photo 1/2/3:
ISO: 64 / 250 / 250
Shutter Speed: 1/160, 1/60, 1/40
F Stop: 3.1 / 4.5 / 3.6

 

[benedict check]

anyone using C50 for it does it good?

 

[happimonster]

Errmm what is C50? :think:

 

[davidlkh]

http://www.dpreview.com/news/0209/02092409olympusc50z.asp

Olympus C50 a cousin of your camera

 

[davidlkh]

Hmmm.... my camera do not have sports mode... I can only increase/decrease ISO and changing the WB to suit Sunny/Cloudy/Cool Lights/Warm Lights...

OK, here's the details:
Photo 1/2/3:
ISO: 64 / 250 / 250
Shutter Speed: 1/160, 1/60, 1/40
F Stop: 3.1 / 4.5 / 3.6

If the photos are coming out greenish while shallow, you can try florescent WB

If the photos are coming out brownish becuase of dirty water, you can try tungsten WB

If the photos are coming out greyish blueish because of overcast day clear water, try cloudy WB

If you have CUSTOM WB, then do not need any of the above, they do not work well anyway because they are tuned for a specific light frequency (color). As we dive deeper, there is no way for the default settings to compensate for this for the changing color bias. Hence custom setting provides the best solution but you need to set it with a white writing slate and everytime you change depth or lighting conditions change.

If you want a faster shutter speed, perhaps bump up the ISO.

 

[happimonster]

Right thanks! hee heee... *printing out the page*
I will try playing around the WB/ISO for my next dive trip... *starts to wonder when*
Anyway, are you the david @ finsonline?? just guessing lah...

 

[davidlkh]

Anyway, are you the david @ finsonline?? just guessing lah...

I would have used David here also, but it was taken. By the way, that is my real name.