[ Olympus Colours ] - Show Your Blues, Greens and Reds!


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Ahh... I was thinking along the lines of how I usually shoot (in JPEG)

So I'm guessing you shoot in RAW and then tweak the WB in post-processing yes?

Depends. If it some funky mixed lighting condition, I will do a TTL WB to get the WB consistent so that I can tweak them in Silkypix in post (but this depends on how much I am paid for the assignment)... else I will give the DI artist the info and let him sweat...

Funny.... :sticktong

But seriously - the external WB sensor on the E1; it's primarily for the "Auto WB" setting right?

Can you can still perform a custom WB through the lens? Which is ore accurate? Leaving the E1 to Auto WB or perform a WB TTL?

I hardly have to use TTL WB... the Auto WB together with the external sensor is so very accurate.

wow.. you gotten yourself the 35-100... cool... :sweat:

Yup... for a while already, actually... I really needed it for a couple of assignments that was coming, and anyway, the lens has already paid for itself...
 

Shot on my trusty E-1 at iso800, cleaned up and processed in Silkypix.

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I am really interested in the name of the production these shots are from. I love musical and dramatic theatre, and this looks like an exciting show.

I would love to know the circumstances of these shots. I can't imagine taking out my camera and starting shooting in the middle of a performance... So was this shot as an assignment? Was it during a rehearsal or an actual performance? If it was a rehearsal, was the light changed (boosted in some way) to accomodate the photographer? I hate to pry, but I would love to take shots like these of performance art or theatre.
 

seriously tested at this event.... think the E510 is really not a sports cam.... not able to capture those flips and turns.... and my kit cannot reach far enough...
any tips for freezing fast moving objects from you guys???.... thinking of heading down tomorrow again... gotten myself a nice tan tough... haha

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Well...I'm not actually a sports shooter or an expert. However, I read in books that if you're trying to sports shoot with a slow (for any reason...fps, AF or whatever) cam, you have to anticipate the shot. In a race, the turns should be known to you. Where possible, try to shoot from a tripod for stability. Also, have something more than an 80mm telephoto unless you don't mind practically shoving the cam in the competitors' faces.

I think the E510's point AF is pretty fine, since I'm always shooting only with 1 AF point active. The 40-150mm kit lens is long enough for fairly tame wildlife shots. It should be fine for sporting events, even though you may have to get a bit closer. Oh, and burst mode may help, depending on whether you prefer to snap shot the action, or machinegun through it. I personally prefer snap shots, but sometimes machinegunning can get you the lucky shot...
 

Oh, and burst mode may help, depending on whether you prefer to snap shot the action, or machinegun through it. I personally prefer snap shots, but sometimes machinegunning can get you the lucky shot...

For some actions like at the horse races, you'll definitely need to machine gun to be able to cherry-pick a picture with dramatic poses of the horses and riders. Shutter speed also needs to be freakin' fast too (1/1000 sec minimum when horses run past the finish line).
 

I suppose that would be for when you're trying to freeze the motion. Some prefer the drama of a motion blur, others want to capture a bunch of horses competing for the finish line with their wide lens, and so on. All depends on position, equipment and especially intention.
 

Well...I'm not actually a sports shooter or an expert. However, I read in books that if you're trying to sports shoot with a slow (for any reason...fps, AF or whatever) cam, you have to anticipate the shot. In a race, the turns should be known to you. Where possible, try to shoot from a tripod for stability. Also, have something more than an 80mm telephoto unless you don't mind practically shoving the cam in the competitors' faces.

I think the E510's point AF is pretty fine, since I'm always shooting only with 1 AF point active. The 40-150mm kit lens is long enough for fairly tame wildlife shots. It should be fine for sporting events, even though you may have to get a bit closer. Oh, and burst mode may help, depending on whether you prefer to snap shot the action, or machinegun through it. I personally prefer snap shots, but sometimes machinegunning can get you the lucky shot...

thanks for the tip.... i have got another problem which is the object is always moving thus the focus cannot lock on to the target.... is there any focusing technique that can be applied to fast moving objects??...
 

For some actions like at the horse races, you'll definitely need to machine gun to be able to cherry-pick a picture with dramatic poses of the horses and riders. Shutter speed also needs to be freakin' fast too (1/1000 sec minimum when horses run past the finish line).

think i will head down again tom to practice.. hee... prob try shutter priority mode this time round.... try to freeze the motion... hope weather is fine tomorrow..
 

thanks for the tip.... i have got another problem which is the object is always moving thus the focus cannot lock on to the target.... is there any focusing technique that can be applied to fast moving objects??...

If you can estimate a spot where that fast moving subject is going to be at soon, just use manual focus on that spot and use a smaller aperture for larger DOF to make a 'hit' more likely.
 

Are you using one-point AF, CAF or SAF? Perhaps you can experiment with those, but I usually like SAF+MF. Usually enough for snipe shots. Basically, 3fps isn't that high, so machinegunning may not work as well as it would on those old motor drives or other faster cameras.
 

I suppose that would be for when you're trying to freeze the motion. Some prefer the drama of a motion blur, others want to capture a bunch of horses competing for the finish line with their wide lens, and so on. All depends on position, equipment and especially intention.

You can't even tell exactly when the horses are going to reach the finish line. When the first horse enters the viewfinder, that's when I'll press the shutter button all the way till the buffer is maxed (11 SHQ, unlimited HQ shots for the E-510). It's all over in a couple of seconds. If you're too slow or have to spend time to frame, focus, you won't even get to snap the butt of the last horse to finish.
 

tried to apply some of the tips i had gathered on the second attempt on those flip shots...

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