Ahh... I was thinking along the lines of how I usually shoot (in JPEG)
So I'm guessing you shoot in RAW and then tweak the WB in post-processing yes?
Funny.... :sticktong
But seriously - the external WB sensor on the E1; it's primarily for the "Auto WB" setting right?
Can you can still perform a custom WB through the lens? Which is ore accurate? Leaving the E1 to Auto WB or perform a WB TTL?
wow.. you gotten yourself the 35-100... cool... :sweat:
taken at the Big Bike Fest over at Suntec last weekend...
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some of the other pics taken could be found here...
http://clubsnap.com/forums/showthread.php?t=311436
Shot on my trusty E-1 at iso800, cleaned up and processed in Silkypix.
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I am really interested in the name of the production these shots are from. I love musical and dramatic theatre, and this looks like an exciting show.
I would love to know the circumstances of these shots. I can't imagine taking out my camera and starting shooting in the middle of a performance... So was this shot as an assignment? Was it during a rehearsal or an actual performance? If it was a rehearsal, was the light changed (boosted in some way) to accomodate the photographer? I hate to pry, but I would love to take shots like these of performance art or theatre.
I find the HDB distracting![]()
Oh, and burst mode may help, depending on whether you prefer to snap shot the action, or machinegun through it. I personally prefer snap shots, but sometimes machinegunning can get you the lucky shot...
Well...I'm not actually a sports shooter or an expert. However, I read in books that if you're trying to sports shoot with a slow (for any reason...fps, AF or whatever) cam, you have to anticipate the shot. In a race, the turns should be known to you. Where possible, try to shoot from a tripod for stability. Also, have something more than an 80mm telephoto unless you don't mind practically shoving the cam in the competitors' faces.
I think the E510's point AF is pretty fine, since I'm always shooting only with 1 AF point active. The 40-150mm kit lens is long enough for fairly tame wildlife shots. It should be fine for sporting events, even though you may have to get a bit closer. Oh, and burst mode may help, depending on whether you prefer to snap shot the action, or machinegun through it. I personally prefer snap shots, but sometimes machinegunning can get you the lucky shot...
For some actions like at the horse races, you'll definitely need to machine gun to be able to cherry-pick a picture with dramatic poses of the horses and riders. Shutter speed also needs to be freakin' fast too (1/1000 sec minimum when horses run past the finish line).
thanks for the tip.... i have got another problem which is the object is always moving thus the focus cannot lock on to the target.... is there any focusing technique that can be applied to fast moving objects??...
I suppose that would be for when you're trying to freeze the motion. Some prefer the drama of a motion blur, others want to capture a bunch of horses competing for the finish line with their wide lens, and so on. All depends on position, equipment and especially intention.