[ Olympus Colours ] - Show Your Blues, Greens and Reds!


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A yellow...
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I like "pinkish" red very much:lovegrin:

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I also like "yellowish" green a lot...or is it supposed to be "greenish" yellow?:sweatsm:

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Some bright green to share.

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My humble contribution. E500 with kit lens.

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Here is another contribution from me. Sunsets are about two dozen a dollar, but they are always so enticing.

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I thought smaller sensor noise=more noise? From my experience, the noise levels are quite annoying.
*ahem*
*cough Canon Cough*

Gee, some time back, we are shooting velvia at asa 40, neber even shot film at iso above 100 in my life. I dun worry about noise at higher isos.
 

There are those who are more interested in specs than taking pictures... :dunno:
 

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Note: Some photos may not be as sharp as desired; lens had a mechanical fault and aperture was stuck at F4
 

ngeowcs: great opera pics! we don't see much of these in singapore any longer; although if you're going to tell me next that you took those shots in singapore I would probably die with embarrassment. :bsmilie:


haha Drakon, those opera show was at Ipoh. we still got few opera group running here and there in Ipoh. is really hard to take those shot. already satisfy to get a few shot that can be share ;p
 

Just got my E330 last week, basically just fooling around with it. :cool:

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My Green (Snakes) from Ikea. E330 with kit lens.

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Blue? Taken using E330 w/40-150 lens
 

E500 with kit lens. Please advice how to have a more balanced exposure as some parts are "washed out".

Thanks.

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Hi firefly, there are a few ways to go about it:

1. Meter on the brightest spot and lock the exposure before taking the shot.
2. Set the exposure compensation to -0.7EV.

Where digital sensors are concerned, details in shadows are almost always retained. Blown-out highlight details are normally irretrievable; I normally underexpose by 2/3 stop then retrieve details in post-processing.

Hope this helps.
 

Firefly, I think you can review the histograms of shots to make sure not too many pixels have been clipped off at the low and high ends before moving on to another scenery. I usually start with +0 EV (usually matrix metering) and then adjust up to +/-1EV (usually in +/-0.3EV steps) to taste before moving on.

For critical events where repeated shots are not a luxury (eg. 'live' events), you'll have to play around to determine the best exposure bias first before taking the other subsequent shots.

Data is lost if pixels are exposed to too little light or too much light but whether data/details lost due to shadow regions is better than those lost due to blown highlight regions will depend on your aesthetic tastes.
 

Caught this rainbow on 1st of Jan07 from Bukit Panjang..... this is about the best I could edit without getting too unreal.

Taken with 14-54mm on E-500.

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