Official Canon 550D User Thread Part III


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also , i have seen canon 50mm F1.4, and 85mm F1.8. im not sure if im right, but from the notion, it seems liked the shorter the distance, the wider aperture i can go.

so am i right to say that if im looking at wide angle lens, i should look for one w/ a shorter focal length , and a smaller number (1.4,1.8 rather than 3.5-5.6) too? that would be a great way to go?

Just to add on to bro def. One thing about the construction of UWA is that at a particular aperture, at the same distance, the depth of field is much larger than that of a 'normal' zoom. Example: 18-55mm vs 10-22mm , both at 18mm & f5.6. The depth of field for the 10-22 is bigger due to the lens construction. This is one unique aspect of true UWAs that makes it worth investment - not just the area of coverage.

The relative 'ease' of constructing quality primes allows them to construct faster lenses as compared to zooms. Fast & (good IQ) zooms are pricey - Think in terms of the 70-200 f2.8 MkII.

As to whether you should look for a small number or not...it depends on your needs. Smaller number (bigger aperture) allows better handheld photography in low light. On outdoors, I'm not sure how many of us would use wide open, as we probably want to stop down to f8 - just an arbitrary number AND utilize a tripod for the depth of field, making handheld photography a moot point. Of course unless, you don't want to work around a tripod.

Yups. Cheers in your hunt :)
 

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changing aperture to f10 + LOTS of sunlight + ISO100 + able to handhold :thumbsup: really really freaking sharp pics
 

changing aperture to f10 + LOTS of sunlight + ISO100 + able to handhold :thumbsup: really really freaking sharp pics

I thot on 550d the diffraction kicks in at about f6.3 or 7.1, making images at apertures smaller than that noticeably less sharp. Read that from the-digital-picture
 

I thot on 550d the diffraction kicks in at about f6.3 or 7.1, making images at apertures smaller than that noticeably less sharp. Read that from the-digital-picture

That's quite true, diffraction kicks in arnd there (can't remember exactly but I saw the list of popular bodies from canon and nikon)...that's why I don't go pass f8 or f11 if possible.
 

I thot on 550d the diffraction kicks in at about f6.3 or 7.1, making images at apertures smaller than that noticeably less sharp. Read that from the-digital-picture

really? i tried f8 before going to f10. f10 seems sharper
 

hey bro.
thanks for that.

i got most of you idea , except for "You can't adjust the angle for a 12mm to be like a 10mm with a slower f stop, you can use breathing holding technique or use a tripod a for slower f-stop 10mm lenses (ie f4). But some people prefer to have a faster f stop which has a fix aperture f2.8, like the Tokina 11-16mm f 2.8 just sacrificing the +1mm which produce nicer Bokeh)"

do you mind explaining a little bit more? i do know what is bokeh but erm the earlier few sentences, i somehow need further explaination. sorry for the trouble

Some people like to use wide angle for portrait (say they want more/better/nicer Bokeh to allow viewers to focus on the subject) which give those kind of pop up effect or in your face kinda photos. Examples in this link http://digital-photography-school.com/17-stunning-wide-angle-images
Check out the Chicken and last Guy shots. Also it's aids in low light shots having a lower of . Tokina 11-16mm f2.8.

Some people want it to use for architecture which the low f stop isn't a priority to them like Bro Jonathan mentioned. You would want to have a deeper depth of field to have everything in focus (landscape, building, group shots) , so you would use ie. f8 -11 range.
Priority to them would most likely they would want a wider angle.
ie those with lenses with 10mm:
Canon 10-22m f3.5-4.5
Tamron 10-24mm f3.5-4.5
Sigma 10-20mm f3.5
Sigma 10-20mm f4-5.6
Latest would be the Sigma 8-16mm f4.5-5.6, but one couldn't place a filter over this lens due to it shape.

Ask yourself this, what do i want to use this APS-C UWA lens for? Then you can narrow down your choice also pls read the reviews.

Happy Hunting :)
 

i truly appreciate it. thanks for so many replies. i think i understand more about whats with wide angle lens, length of lens, and aperture now.

so in the earlier post, bros mention that we should try not to pass f8 . in other words, we should stick in higher f numbers right? because if we go even lower, the aperture is gona be even bigger, then bokeh effect kicks in, overall picture might not be that sharp anymore except for the focus subject,am i right to say this?:)
 

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anyone here can recommend reliable shop with good price for 550D kit2 ?
i'm planning to get it either thur or fri
 

i truly appreciate it. thanks for so many replies. i think i understand more about whats with wide angle lens, length of lens, and aperture now.

so in the earlier post, bros mention that we should try not to pass f8 . in other words, we should stick in higher f numbers right? because if we go even lower, the aperture is gona be even bigger, then bokeh effect kicks in, overall picture might not be that sharp anymore except for the focus subject,am i right to say this?:)

It is not a bokeh effect. It is a phenomenon called diffraction that causes images to be unsharp after a certain aperture. In this case it is about 7.1
 

want deep dof? use a digital camera can le!!!
 

I would definitely go for the Tokina 11-16 2.8, partly it's because of the 2.8!!
 

I would definitely go for the Tokina 11-16 2.8, partly it's because of the 2.8!!

the 2.8 may not be that impt as when shooting UWA, wouldnt it be better to have the dof? just my 2 cents
 

I got the other brand from eBay and I tried the original BG before. The scroll wheel of mine feels semi loose. Not as sturdy as you scoll on your Canon scroll wheel.
I have not try the Phottix before so i can't give a comparison to this. Maybe Bro Compgen can share how the scroll wheel feels like as compare to our 550D's scroll wheel.

For the rest of buttons, it pretty decent.

I thought mine was suppose to be Meike but it came to be Jenis... I did asked them ebay - NAlink before buying from them but they can't give me a definite answer on what brand of BG they are selling...

Most other 3rd parties also got a "free" gift of the Apeture wired remote.

If I got a 2nd chance i would pay abit more to get the (Provided that i know that the Phottix scroll wheel is firmer) Phottix.

But if i need a wired remote too, i would get the other 3rd party BG as it is still usable. I was just greedy with the lure of the free wired remote which i already had a wireless/wired remote....

Given a choice,


Sorry for the late reply. Busy this few nite.

I am not sure if I am lucky or it depend on batches. My Phottix grip scroll wheel feels almost like the 550D's scroll wheel. Sturdy and not loose.
 

Sorry for the late reply. Busy this few nite.

I am not sure if I am lucky or it depend on batches. My Phottix grip scroll wheel feels almost like the 550D's scroll wheel. Sturdy and not loose.

nice! good thing i bought the phottix!

anw regarding the diffraction thingy, photozone lists the issue as "minimal". but since it is an issue then we all might as well stop at f6.3 since going any higher will not improve sharpness. another benefit is that we no need such a high iso or low shutter speed to improve sharpness cos we wun go above f6.3 ^^ win-win situation
 

nice! good thing i bought the phottix!

anw regarding the diffraction thingy, photozone lists the issue as "minimal". but since it is an issue then we all might as well stop at f6.3 since going any higher will not improve sharpness. another benefit is that we no need such a high iso or low shutter speed to improve sharpness cos we wun go above f6.3 ^^ win-win situation

Yeah, but f8 will always have more dof than f6.3. if you want more dof, there is no choice but to go to f8 or f10 or higher
 

I would definitely go for the Tokina 11-16 2.8, partly it's because of the 2.8!!

Bro, this is bcos you prefer to take photos of people with it mah! You so GARANG chiong upfront anyone's face and SNAP! :bigeyes:
 

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