!!!Nikon Sb 28 with canon DSLR better?!

[studiolabmaster]

hi gadian, need more advice.
1]will the flash able to flash at high shutter speed for e.g 500 above,1000 or even 8000? add as a fill in.
2]will the flash over expose in the outdoor?
3] do i need to mask off some of the nikon flash pin?
4]can sb 24 , sb 26 or sb28dx be used?
5]which are the flash which have add on fuction,flash compensation+- on the lcd screen,cos when nkon flash is mounted on canon body, the flash compensation on the body is useless.
Pls advcie.thanks.........
anyone want to contribute to this threads ,pls do so.
But pls be considerate ,this is a discussion.not war.thanks.............

 

[studiolabmaster]

need more advice................any more x pert!!!:think: :think: :think:

 

[Zerstorer]

1]will the flash able to flash at high shutter speed for e.g 500 above,1000 or even 8000? add as a fill in.
2]will the flash over expose in the outdoor?
3] do i need to mask off some of the nikon flash pin?
4]can sb 24 , sb 26 or sb28dx be used?
5]which are the flash which have add on fuction,flash compensation+- on the lcd screen,cos when nkon flash is mounted on canon body, the flash compensation on the body is useless.
Pls advcie.thanks.........
anyone want to contribute to this threads ,pls do so.
But pls be considerate ,this is a discussion.not war.thanks.............

1)No, FP-Sync will not work.
2)It's how you use it. Basically as a autoflash its pretty accurate, when outdoors you have to watch for underexposure instead, the sensor merely averages the amount of light it "sees"
3)No.
4)Basically any flash with auto-mode. SB22,24,25,26,28,28DX,80DX,800, and various Vivitar, Metz, Sunpak, Emoblitz models. Of course the Nikons and Metz are slightly more accurate.
5)SB800 and 80DX.

 

[jesser]

one more thing here...the flash's assist beam will not work also, so do that note when in dim light place.

 

[LittleWolf]

1]anyone had tried this,is nikon flash on canon body better or worst?

From my own experience and about every article I've read on the topic, Canon's flash exposure metering system appears to be majorly screwed up. Any flash which does its own metering should work in a much more consistent manner. I'm using a 20+ year old pre-TTL Minolta flash, and it works very well.

 

[gadrian]

1) Nope.. the max will be the max shutter sync speed of your body. As FP flash for Nikon flash system is mainly controlled by the body.. (in almost all cases), you will not be able to activate the FP flash mode if u are using a shutter speed higher then the max synch speed of your camera.

2) In most cases the flash will actually underexpose outdoors. The feed back sensor as Zerstorer has pointed out mere measures the amount of light feedback to ensure accurate fire/cut off. When outdoor the amount of ambient light, especially during a very bright day or in bright backlight could cause the flash to underexpose.

3) No.. the only pin that really matters is the center one. that is the flash trigger. Though on some older Nikon flashes its good to know that tehre is sometimes a electrical feedback from the flash.. that in the older flashes can fluctuate, due to the deterioration of the electronic components and other components. In such cases, the feedback can cause short circuits in some newer more sensitive cameras.

4) Various.. anything from the SB22s, 24, 26, 28(DX), 80DX, 800. The Metz flash system in A mode is actually more accurate then the Nikon's as Mr.Z has pointed out.. However when it comes to Metz and Nikon.. its a compromise.. Also the Metz flash output from its flash tubes tend to give better skintones. However when comparing N/M and Canon's dedicated.. N/M seem to perform better. However do not the flux feedback pointed out in point 3 for Metz flashes, especially older ones.. it quite high.

5) SB28, 28DX, 80, 800.

Another note to add, yes.. perhaps the flash photography for Canon dedicated flashes are not as accurate as Nikon's/Metz.. however, this is where the true challenge lies.

It is very important to understand how to work around the limitations of ones equipment. I have seen many people that use Canon marque flashes produce stunning flash photography images. It like Nikon's AF system in the CAM900 AF module. It sucks in focus accuracy and speed compared to what Canon has to offer in the same range. This is where we learn how to do prefocusing or focus anticipation.

No system is perfect. Its the photographer that makes it work like 'perfect'.

 

[studiolabmaster]

hi gadian, i'm not trying to be ?!#$@% but if one is to use the flash in indoor.it is critical in most suituation to get it right,over or under abit is acceptable,but if direct flash even with a +2 or+3 flash could not get the backlight out,whats the use.
Also if the subjct behind is so reflective,its gone for good,+3 falsh will still make the subjct under.Try to find out.
pls advice.

 

[gadrian]

hi gadian, i'm not trying to be ?!#$@% but if one is to use the flash in indoor.it is critical in most suituation to get it right,over or under abit is acceptable,but if direct flash even with a +2 or+3 flash could not get the backlight out,whats the use.
Also if the subjct behind is so reflective,its gone for good,+3 falsh will still make the subjct under.Try to find out.
pls advice.

the backlight of the subject can sometime be more then 3 stop different from the front of the subject. In such situations.. its wont work with any other flash.. Nikon.. Canon.. Metz.. or anything.. it will just be a silo..

Sometime when you meter on the subject.. you may be 1/500.. but when you meter on the background.. it 1/8000.. thats more then 3 stops.. so strong backlight is subjective.. how strong.. is the foreground illuminated sufficiently to not have more then 2 stop average diff between background and foreground.

 

[davidkow]

take out the 3pin use the single pin can be use any body

 

[+evenstar]

do you have to dig up such an old thread? :thumbsd:

 

[mpenza]

take out the 3pin use the single pin can be use any body

not Minolta though which has a different flash shoe.

 

[Russ]

I get reliable results with my cheap (relatively) Metz 32 Z-1 in Auto mode.

When I get my 20/30D I will try changing the mode from Evaluative to Average and see.
Presently, not exactly happy with E-TTL on my 300D - hope E-TTL2 is better.