Nikon Fm10

[Lister]

yes, i have a SB 80DX (in fact, i have it before the fm 2n, yup, i own the 2n and not 2), but i've been shooting without flash until recently whereby i tried to use the flash on the fm 2.

based on the manual, for FM 2, it can work in non-ttl auto flash, manual flash and manual flash multiple modes.

for manual mode, i followed the instructions as detailed in the manual - set to M mode, set aperture on both the flash and the lens.

for auto flash mode, - set to M mode, set aperture on both the flash and lens, set the shuttle to 1/250s (highest flash sync speed) .

in both cases, although the ready light on the flash is lighted up, when the trigger is depressed, the flash did not work.

when mounted onto the FM 2n, i also noticed that when i pressed the FLASH button, the flash did not fire. not sure if this is supposed to happen

maybe i did something wrong, seems that i am not able to get the 2 to work together. that's why was thinking of getting a cheapo flash for the fm 2.

any idea? thanx

Okie. for your case, like to check whether the ready light on the FM2 is lighted up(The one juz above the view finder)?

Currently, I am using a Sigma TTL flash and tries it on a F90X and it also works great with TTL mode. When i fix it on my FM2, it works fine with my FM2 in non-TTL. As long as the ready light on the FM2 is ready, it means that there is connection btw the camera hot shoe and the flash.

 

[justarius]

Hi, Care to share on --> these manual bodies may not be enough to achieve the images you admire?

A very interesting quote or topic.

I think that the main advantage of AF versus MF is in sports/action photography. It's quite hard to manual focus at a Grand Prix or airshow (though of course you can use hyperfocal techniques and pray ) Otherwise for landscapes/portraits etc there isn't any real difference.

Anyway roosevelt, the SB-22/SB-22s/SB-30 are the lower end speedlights and are much cheaper than the highend ones without losing too much capability. Anyway, try to get one with TTL or automatic capabilities, otherwise you will have to calculate the correct flash exposure yourself and be fixed at certain apertures when taking flash photographs.

 

[Lister]

I think that the main advantage of AF versus MF is in sports/action photography. It's quite hard to manual focus at a Grand Prix or airshow (though of course you can use hyperfocal techniques and pray ) Otherwise for landscapes/portraits etc there isn't any real difference.

Anyway roosevelt, the SB-22/SB-22s/SB-30 are the lower end speedlights and are much cheaper than the highend ones without losing too much capability. Anyway, try to get one with TTL or automatic capabilities, otherwise you will have to calculate the correct flash exposure yourself and be fixed at certain apertures when taking flash photographs.

Yes, I agreed that the main advantage of AF versus MF is on action photography. I had used a F90X before and it did help in this situation but i like to add on that it is not 100% that you will get a clearer or the image you wanted when using a AF. You need a lot of practise as well. Even with fast auto focusing in a F90X, i sometimes will miss some of the fast moving object shots. Even AF camera you also need to use hyperfocal techniques and pray, not necessary a manual camera. Cheers.

 

[roosevelt]

wow, that was quick...

let me clarify, .. no 1, i'm no pro and number 2 i use manual cameras because getteing fast manual lenses is much cheaper that af ones ;p

anyway, i didn't realise that rubric did mention some of the points i wrote, and some good points were mentioned too.

anyway.. first .. terminologies..
ttl= through the lens. this technology was designed to ease the intensity control on the flash when it throws the light as it reads the scene through the lens of the camera via some connection points on the camera flash shoe.

auto flashes have sensors that reads bounced light and throws the right amout of intensity from the flash.. unlike ttl flashes, these do not read trough the llens. third party products like suntax or achiever etc offer a range of these auto flashes at 1/5 or less the price of an sb28. another option is to go for simple hybribs like the sb22s that has a sensor for use in auto mode and has ttl capability that will allow you to use the function if you ever decide on an electronically abled body. this model is relatively cheaper than other nikon speedlights and will be enough for most textbook instructions. get one that is sufficient for your needs. most modern units are very packed with functions that are hardly ever used by newbiews or even senior newbiews like myself ;p

try this link and read some body comparison reviews.
http://www.nikonlinks.com/

frankly, it is good to review the pics that you find admirable before sinking in money into equipment, for all you know, after the basics, these manual bodies may not be enough to achieve the images you admire.

i wouldn't reccomend an fm2 as a starter camera. rather a used f-601 or f801 would be a better start for many reasons. however if you are planning to travel up to places where batteries are hard to come by, the fm2 is definitely a camera of choice.

so can tell me y u recommard f801 or f601 for a starter???wat they have an FM2 dun???can u explain please...thanx....wan to learn more form lao bird newbie...hehee

 

[roosevelt]

I think that the main advantage of AF versus MF is in sports/action photography. It's quite hard to manual focus at a Grand Prix or airshow (though of course you can use hyperfocal techniques and pray ) Otherwise for landscapes/portraits etc there isn't any real difference.

Anyway roosevelt, the SB-22/SB-22s/SB-30 are the lower end speedlights and are much cheaper than the highend ones without losing too much capability. Anyway, try to get one with TTL or automatic capabilities, otherwise you will have to calculate the correct flash exposure yourself and be fixed at certain apertures when taking flash photographs.

icic....wah it seem like there alot to learn for flash too...cost i alway thought flash is just flash wat...y get those really ex one???so actually flash got so many function ahh??do u have the formula for the calucation part for the amount of flash??

 

[roosevelt]

Yes, I agreed that the main advantage of AF versus MF is on action photography. I had used a F90X before and it did help in this situation but i like to add on that it is not 100% that you will get a clearer or the image you wanted when using a AF. You need a lot of practise as well. Even with fast auto focusing in a F90X, i sometimes will miss some of the fast moving object shots. Even AF camera you also need to use hyperfocal techniques and pray, not necessary a manual camera. Cheers.

that true....but it depend on wat kind ofpicture u are taking...if u taking still image....i think a manual camera will let u have a better control and better feel...and greater satify???am i rite or i'm wrong????

 

[justarius]

Greater control and better feel? I think an AF camera gives you the same control as an MF, i.e. shutter speed and aperture. Of course, in an AF camera, normally there's some sort of program or auto mode (where the camera self selects shutter speed and aperture), in which you might feel tempted to use your SLR as a simple point and shoot and have the camera make all the decisions for you. But if you are disciplined enough to get out of P mode and make the decisions yourself, then there isn't any real difference between the control you get from an AF or MF camera.

Of course, the better feel part is subjective. MF cameras normally are built more solidly (metal bodies) than the current polycarbonate (i.e plastic) AF cameras, so the feel would be difference. Durability issues might arise, but in my opinion, your AF camera body would be the last thing to go if your camera malfunctions.

I haven't used flash manually before, so I can't really tell you the exact numbers, but I believe there's some sort of relationship between the GN, distance, and aperture which can be worked out manually to give you correct flash exposures. :dunno:

 

[roosevelt]

Greater control and better feel? I think an AF camera gives you the same control as an MF, i.e. shutter speed and aperture. Of course, in an AF camera, normally there's some sort of program or auto mode (where the camera self selects shutter speed and aperture), in which you might feel tempted to use your SLR as a simple point and shoot and have the camera make all the decisions for you. But if you are disciplined enough to get out of P mode and make the decisions yourself, then there isn't any real difference between the control you get from an AF or MF camera.

Of course, the better feel part is subjective. MF cameras normally are built more solidly (metal bodies) than the current polycarbonate (i.e plastic) AF cameras, so the feel would be difference. Durability issues might arise, but in my opinion, your AF camera body would be the last thing to go if your camera malfunctions.

I haven't used flash manually before, so I can't really tell you the exact numbers, but I believe there's some sort of relationship between the GN, distance, and aperture which can be worked out manually to give you correct flash exposures. :dunno:

icic...thanx alot for ur reply...at least i know how ppl feel abt different...thanx!!

 

[d7t3]

i think for a starter camera, the f601 & f801s are all right, though heavy. see the info at http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography and other sites in the nikon resources 'sticky thread'.

the f75 is a good current model to start with.

all these cameras can meter and focus manually, like the fm2/10.

in addition, all the 3 models mentioned have:
- matrix & spot metering (in addition to centre-weighted, the fm2's only mode)
- autofocus
- program, shutter-priority, aperture-priority modes
- TTL flash mode

to me, they are better models to start off with, if any of the above are important to you.

also, i think the more important thing you should be thinking about is rather, what lens you are going to get. the camera body is not so crucial.

 

[pipefish]

I have recently started using an AF SLR (F80) - was using a Hexar prior to this. I like it. I like the fact that I can use aperture priority mode (where you set the aperture), and set depth of field easily, or use shutter priority mode (where you set shutter speed), and do a long exposure or freeze motion. Or for tricky situations, I can go fully manual. I could do all this on a manual SLR also, but it would take me a little longer because the camera isn't automated.

So, my view is, as long as you bother to learn the controls on a AF body, learn some basic photography, and don't use the automatic mode on a camera all the time, an AF body will do just as well as a FM2/10/etc.

The downside of using AF bodies, IMO, are that in your price range, most AF bodies are not as well built as their MF counterparts. AF bodies also need batteries to function = although I see this as an overrated advantage, unless you are too lazy to bring a spare battery in your camera bag.

For your price range, you could get:
MF: 2nd hand FE2 (has aperture priority too), 50mm lens or 28-80 zoom, cheap tripod and flash
AF: F65 with the above stuff.

Cheers

 

[Obzervr]

wow, this thread sure moves fast. anyway, here is a quick reply before I get a chance to really sit and type...

why F601 & F801s (yes I missed the s earlier), I tot by now you'd have read d7t3's link. However, to me the salient features are:

1) a bridge between the older manual bodies (F, F2, F3, FMs, FEs etc) and the newer ones (F55,F65,F75,F80...)
2) compatible (allows metering) with manual lenses (good if you ever decide to get thoses manual russian fisheyes & shiftlenses)
3) spot metering (not available with the FMs, FEs, F55, F65, F75?)
4) AF (not available on manual bodies ... obviously)
5) Built in MotorDrive (not on older manual bodies)
6) TTL Flash capable
7) DX Coding override (not on F55, F65, F75 - very importatnt for B&W photography and cheap bilk rolled films)
8) Auto Bracketing
9) cheap cable release option (expensive option on newer bodies)
10) A,S,P,M modes available
11) built in flash (F601) - not available on manual bodies
12) slow sync flash
13) and the list goes now now... don't be lazy... go read up and do a first hand comparison

till later

here is a good bargain I think, suits your budget well with a speedlight too http://page.auctions.shopping.yahoo.com/sg/auction/83962019?aucview=0x23

 

[Lister]

that true....but it depend on wat kind ofpicture u are taking...if u taking still image....i think a manual camera will let u have a better control and better feel...and greater satify???am i rite or i'm wrong????

Yes that is true. Another thing to note is manual camera had difficulties taking night shot/ or low light situation because it was very difficult to focus in these situation due to almost complete darkness in the viewfinder. For this instance, a auto focus camera will come into handy. Got into these situation a few times and unable to produce the sharp image that i wanted. The only solution is to estimate the distance btw the object and the camera and set the foucs length on the lens manually. And Pray hard that your estimation is correct. cheers.

 

[iceman]

Okie. for your case, like to check whether the ready light on the FM2 is lighted up(The one juz above the view finder)?

Currently, I am using a Sigma TTL flash and tries it on a F90X and it also works great with TTL mode. When i fix it on my FM2, it works fine with my FM2 in non-TTL. As long as the ready light on the FM2 is ready, it means that there is connection btw the camera hot shoe and the flash.

did this last night :
a. attached flash
b. turned on the flash
c. set to M mode
d. checked that the ready light was on
e. press trigger
f. AF assist illuminator worked
g. no flash output

any idea ?? :dunno:

 

[Lister]

did this last night :
a. attached flash
b. turned on the flash
c. set to M mode
d. checked that the ready light was on
e. press trigger
f. AF assist illuminator worked
g. no flash output

any idea ?? :dunno:

Regarding your point d) checked that the ready light was on. Are you refering to the camera ready light for the flash or the ready light of the flash itself?

Regarding your point f) AF assist illuminator worked. Are you mounting the flash on a Fm2? if so, how come the AF assist illuminator worked?


cheers

 

[iceman]

Regarding your point d) checked that the ready light was on. Are you refering to the camera ready light for the flash or the ready light of the flash itself?

Regarding your point f) AF assist illuminator worked. Are you mounting the flash on a Fm2? if so, how come the AF assist illuminator worked?


cheers

d. ready light on the camera, as seen through the view finder

f. fm 2n, yeah i can see the 3 (??) beams of red light.

any idea?? thanx

 

[Ian]

A couple of things to note about the FM-10

It has a known problem with the film transport and it's not able to take much punishment by the photographer.It's not manufactured by Nikon per se. It's made to Nikon specifications by Cosina.

 

[Lister]

d. ready light on the camera, as seen through the view finder

f. fm 2n, yeah i can see the 3 (??) beams of red light.

any idea?? thanx

If the ready light on the camera is lighted up, it means that there is contact point btw the camera and flash. If that is the case , i not sure how come it can nt works. :dunno:

Maybe you can try using ur flash on your friends FM2 and see the result. cheers.

 

[xdivider]

A couple of things to note about the FM-10

It has a known problem with the film transport and it's not able to take much punishment by the photographer.It's not manufactured by Nikon per se. It's made to Nikon specifications by Cosina.

Given the price, i doubt u can make a tank. But read somewhere Galen Rowell used to bring this as a carry-along camera so it shouldn't fall apart that easily if u take care.

 

[roosevelt]

wow, this thread sure moves fast. anyway, here is a quick reply before I get a chance to really sit and type...

why F601 & F801s (yes I missed the s earlier), I tot by now you'd have read d7t3's link. However, to me the salient features are:

1) a bridge between the older manual bodies (F, F2, F3, FMs, FEs etc) and the newer ones (F55,F65,F75,F80...)
2) compatible (allows metering) with manual lenses (good if you ever decide to get thoses manual russian fisheyes & shiftlenses)
3) spot metering (not available with the FMs, FEs, F55, F65, F75?)
4) AF (not available on manual bodies ... obviously)
5) Built in MotorDrive (not on older manual bodies)
6) TTL Flash capable
7) DX Coding override (not on F55, F65, F75 - very importatnt for B&W photography and cheap bilk rolled films)
8) Auto Bracketing
9) cheap cable release option (expensive option on newer bodies)
10) A,S,P,M modes available
11) built in flash (F601) - not available on manual bodies
12) slow sync flash
13) and the list goes now now... don't be lazy... go read up and do a first hand comparison

till later

here is a good bargain I think, suits your budget well with a speedlight too http://page.auctions.shopping.yahoo.com/sg/auction/83962019?aucview=0x23

alrite...thanx man....hahaa...i afraid i'm going to be lazy using Auto all the time lor....so if i get a manual one...at least it force me not to be lazy and i can built my solid base...hehehe

 

[roosevelt]

Yes that is true. Another thing to note is manual camera had difficulties taking night shot/ or low light situation because it was very difficult to focus in these situation due to almost complete darkness in the viewfinder. For this instance, a auto focus camera will come into handy. Got into these situation a few times and unable to produce the sharp image that i wanted. The only solution is to estimate the distance btw the object and the camera and set the foucs length on the lens manually. And Pray hard that your estimation is correct. cheers.

wow...that is something i din know.....that bad....is there way to see in the dark using manual????anyone knows??