Nikon em

[azzurri]

Yes, I totally agree with you on the weight and solid feeling too.
Your entire lenses are prime lens… what abt Zoom lens??
I’m aware prime lens is better compare to Zoom lens cos for the f-Stop…

May be I should look into prime lens with a longer range.

What abt film?? Any advice??
I saw there are so many films.. I was so confuse which one to choice for…

Thanks for the advice and sharing your views.

The reason why the most known manual lenses are primes is for a reason

If you really want a zoom, you may want to consider the Nikon 28-105mm f3.5-4.5. It is one of the most value for money lenses and you would have pretty wide a length covered.

For film, there are lots to choose from and sometimes, it is really a matter of personal preference.

Since you are shooting street, you probably would want to keep off Velvia. It is a bit too saturated and the human skin tends to be a bit too orange. If you are on a budget, the Fuji Superia 200 and 400 are pretty good choices. Want a little faster? Can try the Superia/Press 800/1600.

Just bear in mind that the faster the film, the grainer the pictures.

If you want to shoot black and white, you can go for film like the Kodak BW400CN, Ilford XP2 or the Fuji Neopan 400CN. The reason for this is that you can just develop these film in any developing studio as they are processed using the same chemicals (usually C41) as coloured film. Also, these are fairly fast film; rated at ISO 400.

 

[Nenjia]

What abt film?? Any advice??
I saw there are so many films.. I was so confuse which one to choice for…

depends what you want to shot and achieve

the basic principal -- lower shutter speed, small aperture, and lower ISO film will always generate better image quality , so for me, I am always use ISO 50(sometime25) for macro and landscape. 400/800 is for sports:bsmilie:

 

[huggable]

Hi azzurri,

Care to share why most known manual lenses are primes? I find myself not being able to catch up, having to set focus, set aperture, and set shutter speed all at once!

Or was it because they require big apertures to focus accurately?

The reason why the most known manual lenses are primes is for a reason
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[Nenjia]

Hi azzurri,

Care to share why most known manual lenses are primes? I find myself not being able to catch up, having to set focus, set aperture, and set shutter speed all at once!

Or was it because they require big apertures to focus accurately?

no there are a lot of MF lenses are zoom too, as many as prime

 

[azzurri]

Hi azzurri,

Care to share why most known manual lenses are primes? I find myself not being able to catch up, having to set focus, set aperture, and set shutter speed all at once!

Or was it because they require big apertures to focus accurately?

I think one of the main problems was that the first few zooms which were manual focus did not have image quality comparable to primes. I understand that Nikon did struggle with zooms initially. Even in today's photography world, primes are usually sharper than zooms. Of course, zooms are improving these days and the modern zooms are probably more superior than some of the old primes.

If you think about it, when someone mentions manual focus lenses, I believe primes like the AI/AIS versions of the 28mm f2.8, 35mm f1.4, 55mm f2.8, 105mm f2.5 and the 180mm f2.8 would pop up.

Hope this helps

 

[Rubber_Duck]

Depends what type of film you want to use, Black and White or Negatives or Colours slides. Each will have each own recommendations.

For me, if i want to shoot black and white, I'll use TMax 400 or Tri X 400. For negatives, doesn't really matter, i using the commonly available Kodak Gold 200. For colour slides....that one depends, if you like saturated colours, get the fujifilm velvia 50

Thanks for the advice..!!
I will look at those films that you mentioned.

 

[Rubber_Duck]

I've just tried a roll of Porta 160, good stuff!

care to share more on this films?

 

[Rubber_Duck]

The reason why the most known manual lenses are primes is for a reason

If you really want a zoom, you may want to consider the Nikon 28-105mm f3.5-4.5. It is one of the most value for money lenses and you would have pretty wide a length covered.

For film, there are lots to choose from and sometimes, it is really a matter of personal preference.

Since you are shooting street, you probably would want to keep off Velvia. It is a bit too saturated and the human skin tends to be a bit too orange. If you are on a budget, the Fuji Superia 200 and 400 are pretty good choices. Want a little faster? Can try the Superia/Press 800/1600.

Just bear in mind that the faster the film, the grainer the pictures.

If you want to shoot black and white, you can go for film like the Kodak BW400CN, Ilford XP2 or the Fuji Neopan 400CN. The reason for this is that you can just develop these film in any developing studio as they are processed using the same chemicals (usually C41) as coloured film. Also, these are fairly fast film; rated at ISO 400.

Thank you so much for the advice on the lens and films...
I check out those stuffs....

depends what you want to shot and achieve

the basic principal -- lower shutter speed, small aperture, and lower ISO film will always generate better image quality , so for me, I am always use ISO 50(sometime25) for macro and landscape. 400/800 is for sports:bsmilie:

but with all this lower and small and lower ISO... meaning I have to use a tripod while shooting... is not the pix will turn out blur.... isn't it???
:think:

 

[jasonlcs]

I am not into film yet, but doing some reading on film cameras.
Have you visit this site yet?

http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/classics/emfgfg20/em/

http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/classics/emfgfg20/em/handling.htm

http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/classics/emfgfg20/em/mdesbe.htm

Some useful information.

 

[Nenjia]

Thank you so much for the advice on the lens and films...
I check out those stuffs....




but with all this lower and small and lower ISO... meaning I have to use a tripod while shooting... is not the pix will turn out blur.... isn't it???
:think:

it depends, for macro shot,tripod is recommended, but for others, you can decide, for me 1/15 is ok for handheld if the subject it not too far. the speed,aperture and ISO will be a combination, choice by condition and what you want to achieve, generally lower speed, small aperture and lower ISO will result fine pixel, deeper DOV, richer color and more details

that's also why photography has a lot of fun too.

 

[diediealsomustdive]

Want to be authentic to the camera and its time?

Nikon lens series E 36-72mm f/3.5
Nikon lens series E 75-150mm f/3.5

The 75-150mm f/3.5 is one of the true legendary Nikon lens, despite it being series E lens, favoured by fashion photographers all over.

The 36-72mm series E lens is quite good too.

Check the Photography in Malaysia website for info and photos of these 2 lenses.

 

[Rubber_Duck]

Thanks all for the advice..

Finally I got a roll of film (FUJIFLIM PROVIA 100F) and start shotting with my 50mm lens.

Is really fun and is kinda hard to play with it.. especially the MF.... take time to get use to it.
everytime took a shot...I want to see how is the pix will turn out to be like, than i remember
there is no LCD on the camera..... and I did that many times... :bsmilie:
Used to DSLR liao... keep looking at the camera LCD...:bsmilie:

Anyway how the result will turn out to be.....:sweatsm:

 

[tkbonz]

...:

Anyway how the result will turn out to be.....:sweatsm:

You printing or scanning?

 

[lim8395]

i did realise my nikon EM's viewfinder seems pretty dark tough. is this normal?

 

[Nenjia]

i did realise my nikon EM's viewfinder seems pretty dark tough. is this normal?

no it should be same with FE2/FM2/FE/FM?

 

[huggable]

I'm more into portraiture in film, and this film is great for skin tones. Vivid colors too!

care to share more on this films?

 

[Rubber_Duck]

I am not into film yet, but doing some reading on film cameras.
Have you visit this site yet?

http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/classics/emfgfg20/em/

http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/classics/emfgfg20/em/handling.htm

http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/classics/emfgfg20/em/mdesbe.htm

Some useful information.

:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:
Thank you so much this website is really useful..!!!

 

[Rubber_Duck]

You printing or scanning?

I'll be going for printing....
I took mostly on my baby....
I left around 20 films left....

 

[diediealsomustdive]

i did realise my nikon EM's viewfinder seems pretty dark tough. is this normal?

no it should be same with FE2/FM2/FE/FM?

Should be similar to FM/FE (K screen) but slightly darker - budget model does suffer some setback. FE2/FM2 finders about 1 stop brighter (K2 screen). Speaking from experience - I started shooting around that time, was contemplating EM at (IIRC) $399 body plus series E 50mm f/1.8 but cash setback meant I waited another 3+ years and got me-self an FE2.

 

[tkbonz]

I'll be going for printing....
I took mostly on my baby....
I left around 20 films left....

Fwah...20 rolls of film (alot leh)? or 20 more exposures? Haha...big diff.

Do post if you can scan them.