I have done a full spectrum mod for the Olympus EPL1 before, but have no MFT lens. The V1 is a pretty good camera, and the build in EVF does make outdoor shooting easier.
I followed the instructions from http://www.fotozones.com/live/index.php/topic/46637-nikon-v1-ir-conversion/ but didnt put any replacement glass (Prefered it 'bare' so I can use different IR filters) Basically I took out the shaker and the IR-cut filter.
For those who wish to do it, few notes
1. There are two plastic pieces on each side when you take out the back, dun lose/break them as they can be quite fragile.
2. The eyepiece is very fragile, dont use anything too sharp to pry it out, i tore my slightly
3. Removing the eyepiece is the trickies, best way is to use a sharp flat screwdriver blade to seperate the rubber and body all around, after that it gets easier to remove. Do not attempt to remove the rubber eyepiece by pulling from the diopter dial hole !
The V1 sensor is definately IR sensitive and has a lot of space to photoshop around. Its a pity you can't set 2000K WB in body. I find the best setting is Incandescent B6 G6. (Yes you will be using the raw, but having this setting gives a nicer preview on the EVF/LCD)
The steps provided by the fotozone post is very accurate, and I don't need to provide photos on the steps. The following photos are just for entertainment purposes


Final notes.
1. I didn't put in any replacement glass and this has affected focusing to infinity on the Nikon 1 10mm/2.8
2. On the Nikon 28-300 G lens (I use an FT1 adapter) I can focus to infinity at 300mm, but at the 28mm end, I have issues focusing to infinity
3. The Nikon 1 18.5mm/1.8 focuses to infinity fine (and fast!)
4. There is no red/brights spots on all these lens !
Hopefully the clouds will clear up a bit and I can go do more test shots ! Stay tuned !
I followed the instructions from http://www.fotozones.com/live/index.php/topic/46637-nikon-v1-ir-conversion/ but didnt put any replacement glass (Prefered it 'bare' so I can use different IR filters) Basically I took out the shaker and the IR-cut filter.
For those who wish to do it, few notes
1. There are two plastic pieces on each side when you take out the back, dun lose/break them as they can be quite fragile.
2. The eyepiece is very fragile, dont use anything too sharp to pry it out, i tore my slightly
3. Removing the eyepiece is the trickies, best way is to use a sharp flat screwdriver blade to seperate the rubber and body all around, after that it gets easier to remove. Do not attempt to remove the rubber eyepiece by pulling from the diopter dial hole !
The V1 sensor is definately IR sensitive and has a lot of space to photoshop around. Its a pity you can't set 2000K WB in body. I find the best setting is Incandescent B6 G6. (Yes you will be using the raw, but having this setting gives a nicer preview on the EVF/LCD)
The steps provided by the fotozone post is very accurate, and I don't need to provide photos on the steps. The following photos are just for entertainment purposes



Final notes.
1. I didn't put in any replacement glass and this has affected focusing to infinity on the Nikon 1 10mm/2.8
2. On the Nikon 28-300 G lens (I use an FT1 adapter) I can focus to infinity at 300mm, but at the 28mm end, I have issues focusing to infinity
3. The Nikon 1 18.5mm/1.8 focuses to infinity fine (and fast!)
4. There is no red/brights spots on all these lens !
Hopefully the clouds will clear up a bit and I can go do more test shots ! Stay tuned !