newbie in IR (how to take sharp pic in IR?)


Blur could be due to
(1) Camera shake
(2) Subject shake

At a shutter speed of 120 secs, it could be due to both...
 

The pic looks ok to me (from my small phone screen). Seems like its just the leaves moving due to the long exposure?
mayb it becos you using phone, when i use my com to see, it seem that the pic is not sharp..

cant pinpoint for me from the pictures...

so you have to slowly troubleshoot yourself a little here.

1: cover eyepiece
2: focus after 1
3: use a tripod + shutter release

then we see the image and see how from there?

yap will try it again using remote the next time.. got to go down again :)

Welcome to IR,

guess you can get a shutter release 1st and a sturdy tripod to test out 1st.

thanks will try them til it nice :)
 

The pic looks ok to me (from my small phone screen). Seems like its just the leaves moving due to the long exposure?

cant pinpoint for me from the pictures...

so you have to slowly troubleshoot yourself a little here.

1: cover eyepiece
2: focus after 1
3: use a tripod + shutter release

then we see the image and see how from there?

Welcome to IR,

guess you can get a shutter release 1st and a sturdy tripod to test out 1st.

Blur could be due to
(1) Camera shake
(2) Subject shake

At a shutter speed of 120 secs, it could be due to both...

yap think both is shaking, finger press (shake)
the tree is moving as well
 

From your picture IR 01, can clearly see the trees are moving. more of subject shaking.
 


_MG_271501 by kelchew, on Flickr

retake this morning, trying so hard to get it color.. just the sky abit more blue.. is this ok?
 


_MG_271501 by kelchew, on Flickr

retake this morning, trying so hard to get it color.. just the sky abit more blue.. is this ok?
wakaoz why you like to take objects that can move one.

according to your exposure, its 3 secs (if i didnt read wrongly). chances are boats, trees, grass all moving...

so might blur a bit.

to do an objective test, find a object that cannot move and repeat the abv mentioned steps. then we can see if its sharp or not

other wise, it looks pretty ok. just do an unsharp mask onto it and it will become a little sharper. you can also bump the contrast a little

562560_10150747757238585_786218584_9856730_1336973863_n.jpg

my edited version of your shot
 

Last edited:
get color very easy one.

you want blue sky? wait for non-cloudy day. clouds scatter IR. sky becomes white.

shoot in the direction where your shadows fall (aka not facing the sun), and your colors become stronger/more contrasty
 

wakaoz why you like to take objects that can move one.

according to your exposure, its 3 secs (if i didnt read wrongly). chances are boats, trees, grass all moving...

so might blur a bit.

to do an objective test, find a object that cannot move and repeat the abv mentioned steps. then we can see if its sharp or not

other wise, it looks pretty ok. just do an unsharp mask onto it and it will become a little sharper. you can also bump the contrast a little

562560_10150747757238585_786218584_9856730_1336973863_n.jpg

my edited version of your shot

oh i taking mainly tree leh, all moving 1.. hard to make it dont move..
this time round i bump up the iso alot to 800-1600 so it take around 3-8s..
i need to go read up hyperfocal thing.. (not good in reading keep dont understand how to use it) :(
 

wakaoz why you like to take objects that can move one.

according to your exposure, its 3 secs (if i didnt read wrongly). chances are boats, trees, grass all moving...

so might blur a bit.

to do an objective test, find a object that cannot move and repeat the abv mentioned steps. then we can see if its sharp or not

other wise, it looks pretty ok. just do an unsharp mask onto it and it will become a little sharper. you can also bump the contrast a little

562560_10150747757238585_786218584_9856730_1336973863_n.jpg

my edited version of your shot


bedok res IR 06 by kelchew, on Flickr
this my 2nd edit look closer to your now :)


bedok res IR 07 by kelchew, on Flickr
non moving object something like this?
didnt see my shadow haiz
 

Last edited:
yep can push the contrast more don't worry hahaha

ok will do it again when i reach hm..
bt i find that the floor (light area abit "blueish") is this normal, or becos of my pp skill?
 

Hi Kelchew,

Just curious, base on your description, I presume your camera is not IR-mod.
 

Focusing point for Infra red and visible light are different, your camera AF system only focus using visible light if its not IR mod with AF adjusted.
In general, for a wide angle lens, when you focus at 10 meters, its actually at infinity for IR, if you set focus at infinity,
that mean nothing will be in focus, that is why your pictures look soft, maybe you can try manual focus at 10 meters,
5 meters and 20 meters, I am sure you will have at least one picture with good sharpness.
 

Focusing point for Infra red and visible light are different, your camera AF system only focus using visible light if its not IR mod with AF adjusted.
In general, for a wide angle lens, when you focus at 10 meters, its actually at infinity for IR, if you set focus at infinity,
that mean nothing will be in focus, that is why your pictures look soft, maybe you can try manual focus at 10 meters,
5 meters and 20 meters, I am sure you will have at least one picture with good sharpness.


thanks for the tips.. i will try to go out and take more..
no luck this day, during my off day it been raining and raining..
 

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