Need help for my D90
- Thread starter jgshuwei
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This is what you need for housing to start with if you can afford.
http://www.ikelite.com/web_two/nik_d90.html
http://www.ikelite.com/web_two/nik_d90.html
Found Ikelite, 10Bar and Aquatica for D90. Who has used theses casing? Especially Aquatica, mind to share? I have a YS 110, if I wanna use back this strobe, I need to use Sea&Sea Housing? No point bringing a DSLR and use fibre optic cable without TTL right?
As long as you can trigger the strobes with your camera flash via fibre optic cable, the YS-100 has E-TTL. Anyway even if you use a Sea & Sea housing, you still need to add a TTL converter in addition to the hard wired cables for TTL. TTL is not a must when doing U/W photography although it simplifies matters a lot.
Besides Ikelite, 10 Bar and Aquatica, Patima also makes a nice little alu housing as well.
http://uwcam.com/eng/rd/sub3_1.html
TTL is COOOOOOOL!
Hahaha... :bsmilie:
Point noted. But me thinks you'll get a nicer halo and sunburst with a higher f-stop no? :dunno:
Then you'll look like god.... :sweatsm:
No, the wife tells me that God's a Woman... That fits :embrass:
TTL still offers the see-saw method even with flash. Manual cannot do that.
Image backdrops like this are more realistic of what you actually see, not how the camera has interpreted it.
This is where Ikelite stuff kicks Ass.
TTL still offers the see-saw method even with flash. Manual cannot do that.
Image backdrops like this are more realistic of what you actually see, not how the camera has interpreted it.
This is where Ikelite stuff kicks Ass.
What's the see-saw method? :dunno:
TTL? :dunno:
Photosmart
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Maybe he meant 1/250 .....
Sorry,
Copy the image onto your desktop and open with lightroom or bridge. You should see that identical EXIF displayed.
Aperture Priority, TTL Fuji and Ikelite electronics.
If the camera is set to sync at 250* It allows the iTTL circuitry to do its business correctly, allowing the right amount of fill without interupting what the exposure system is telling it.
I have shots with the D2x synched at 1/640 too. The water was a bit murkier though; in Lembeh.
Sea saw LOL!
if you open your aperture x speed goes up proprtionately
If you close the aperture x speed goes down proportionately
TTL will work as a fill-in in Aperture Priority (or Speed).
This doesn't apply in manual mode when using flash.
Copy the image onto your desktop and open with lightroom or bridge. You should see that identical EXIF displayed.
Aperture Priority, TTL Fuji and Ikelite electronics.
If the camera is set to sync at 250* It allows the iTTL circuitry to do its business correctly, allowing the right amount of fill without interupting what the exposure system is telling it.
I have shots with the D2x synched at 1/640 too. The water was a bit murkier though; in Lembeh.
Sea saw LOL!
if you open your aperture x speed goes up proprtionately
If you close the aperture x speed goes down proportionately
TTL will work as a fill-in in Aperture Priority (or Speed).
This doesn't apply in manual mode when using flash.
thanks, that's interesting.
i recall that the Av mode for my camera works differently. if the required shutter speed is greater than 1/200 or 1/250 with a hotshoe flash attached, the shutter speed indicator would just blink and the photos coming out horribly over-exposed.
too bad i only saw this after my trip...i will definitely try this out again the next time i go diving.
i recall that the Av mode for my camera works differently. if the required shutter speed is greater than 1/200 or 1/250 with a hotshoe flash attached, the shutter speed indicator would just blink and the photos coming out horribly over-exposed.
too bad i only saw this after my trip...i will definitely try this out again the next time i go diving.
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