Metering On an F2 with slide film

[Ben Ang]

Hi all,

I usually shoot plack and white olfrd HP5+, but will be going on a trip and will be shooting film for wide angle( my widest is 20mm)

so i can choose either my Nikon F2 or FA. Would like to shoot the F2 for 100% viewfinder coverage and would also want to use Fuji Provia 100F. but i'm wondering whether the meter will be accurate enough for the film.

the other options are, shooting the FA with provia and loosing 100% VF, or shooting with Fuji Reala instead.

has anyone tried slide on the older camera's before? does it work well? most concerned with metering issues. also, if any insight for reala Vs provia would be great as well. as mentioned, will shoot mostly wide angle and architecture/buildings.

regards,
ben

 

[Yoricko]

Why not use a digicam and check it's meter/histogram/picture and relate it to your F2/FA's meter?

If you have the time. You can try a test roll.

 

[zk-diq]

Would like to shoot the F2 for 100% viewfinder coverage and would also want to use Fuji Provia 100F. but i'm wondering whether the meter will be accurate enough for the film.


F2 using Centre weight metering method, with a CDS cell, you also need to check your shutter timing/aperture stop down, is it in order? +- 25% is acceptable. This camera work fine with me for the past many many years and still clicking. My last check for the shutter was 12 years ago, till now still in order. My last roll of slide process yesterday, 75% correctly expose. (I shoot slide most of the time)

the other options are, shooting the FA with provia and loosing 100% VF, or shooting with Fuji Reala instead.

92% of view is good enough for SLR, because when your slide mount up, that is all you can visual, with neg enlargement you also dont have crop off problem like the 100% F2 facing.


has anyone tried slide on the older camera's before? does it work well? most concerned with metering issues. also, if any insight for reala Vs provia would be great as well. as mentioned, will shoot mostly wide angle and architecture/buildings.

Use film/camera that you are familiar with, trial and test a few rolls before air-born. Film character/shutter /aperture and lab processing accuracy affect your metering reading. Use a 18% gray card as reference for testing. I can only tell you that E6 process have a cleaner/deeper orange and strawberry red then E3. Professional film has a better colour balance. BTW Do not rush into something you are not so sure about and knock your head on the wall. Have a PC lens will be good.

 

[Ben Ang]

thanx for the quick responses =) the meter checks out well with my d200's center weighted so i guess its how i expose and how accurate the shutter is now.. the FA has been my main camera for quite awhile and have only run 3 rolls thru my F2 so i was wondering if anyone else had done this before. well.. i ve decided to bring the F2 and some provia plus a few rolls of fuji 160C and 160S Pro just in case.

has anyone used 160C/S pro? how does it compare to reala? cos thats the most expensive colour negative i ve ever tried so far and felt it wasn't very good. and is it as good as slide film? correct me if im wrong, but i ve always had the impression that slides are always better..

 

[zk-diq]

thanx for the quick responses =) the meter checks out well with my d200's center weighted so i guess its how i expose and how accurate the shutter is now.. the FA has been my main camera for quite awhile and have only run 3 rolls thru my F2 so i was wondering if anyone else had done this before. well.. i ve decided to bring the F2 and some provia plus a few rolls of fuji 160C and 160S Pro just in case.

has anyone used 160C/S pro? how does it compare to reala? cos thats the most expensive colour negative i ve ever tried so far and felt it wasn't very good. and is it as good as slide film? correct me if im wrong, but i ve always had the impression that slides are always better..

Different film has their own character, depend on what is your requirement. Some professional film has been design for easy retouching on the emulation side, some unique in skin tone reproduction, , some has more neutral characteristics, . Today If you want a print, or you just want to scan and email around, then print film (negative) is what you need.

Simply summarize for chrome and neg.

chrome(slide)
1 higher resolution recording
2 more accurate colour recording
3 wider dynamic range (between D3.2 to D4.0, average D3.6)

Neg
1 wider exp latitude (+2 -1)
2 easy for print making