Manual Focusing - M.Zuiko and Zuiko Lenses

Do you manual focus via "by wire" for M.Zuiko/ZD lenses? SWD lenses don't count.


Results are only viewable after voting.

Oh, Wikipedia. It's such an accurate and precise piece of crap. :bsmilie: [sarcasm]I trust something that anyone can edit. Look at all those politicians and criminals who never did anything wrong. It says so in their Wikipedia articles.[/sarcasm]

In any case, when you work with something long enough, you should learn, if you're remotely observant. The only lens with which I have trouble is the 50mm f/2.0 macro and even the best macro lenses are a pain.

hehehe true bro... but going back to the topic I think it's really a pain to use the fly by wire. And as I always believe phography is still more of an art than exact science :) sometimes we ententionally off focus to get a good effect or make it spot on to show details :D;)
 

hehehe true bro... but going back to the topic I think it's really a pain to use the fly by wire. And as I always believe phography is still more of an art than exact science :) sometimes we ententionally off focus to get a good effect or make it spot on to show details :D;)

Sure, I recently photographed a group of runners and I moved the focus from the runner at the front of the group to the runner at the back of the group since they were teammates, but I never focused on those from the other teams' runners between them.

Focus-by-wire takes acclimation, to be sure, but once you adapt, it's quite amazing how quickly you can move between multiple areas. Last Saturday, I was shooting cross country running again and out of 655 photos, I had to trash 10 for being out of focus, and you know by now that I only use manual focus. Hand holding the 50-200mm in the wind gusts was harder than usual, too.
 

Sure, I recently photographed a group of runners and I moved the focus from the runner at the front of the group to the runner at the back of the group since they were teammates, but I never focused on those from the other teams' runners between them.

Focus-by-wire takes acclimation, to be sure, but once you adapt, it's quite amazing how quickly you can move between multiple areas. Last Saturday, I was shooting cross country running again and out of 655 photos, I had to trash 10 for being out of focus, and you know by now that I only use manual focus. Hand holding the 50-200mm in the wind gusts was harder than usual, too.

Bro I can only say one word for you "Pro!" :thumbsup:
 

Bro I can only say one word for you "Pro!" :thumbsup:

Ha. :bsmilie: It was unusual for me to have so few, so it must have been the chilly weather pushing me to keep my hands warm by doing a lot of activity. Usually, I would have had 40 - 50 out of so many shots taken.
 

Ask a classical musician, such as a pianist or violinist, to quickly play some notes. They will do it accurately, even with a piece of "technology" that is hundreds of years old in design.

But my computer hooked up to a piano keyboard via MIDI can play the piece far more accurately...and if you get a few midi boxes you can have a whole orchestra playing more accurately than humans can play the piece, and I say this both as a regular musician, and an electronic one.

And if you want the computer can play the minute waltz in a few seconds! :bsmilie:
 

But my computer hooked up to a piano keyboard via MIDI can play the piece far more accurately...and if you get a few midi boxes you can have a whole orchestra playing more accurately than humans can play the piece, and I say this both as a regular musician, and an electronic one.

And if you want the computer can play the minute waltz in a few seconds! :bsmilie:

For the sake of argument...

That is convenience but not perfect. Because perfection in art is found in imperfection!

Even advanced MIDI software today like Logic, Performer, have a "humanize" function to make it more musical!
 

About AF...

There is a certain amount of precision control when one uses MF.

Some photographers rather compose and then focus instead of focus and re-compose. Just habitual, I believe. So in that sense, MF override is better than AF for them.

Then there is the element of "fine AF" versus "large area AF" which means accuracy. In some tricky AF situations, S-AF+MF is a better solution to "fine tune" the composition. Like trying to pick up a tree in focus amongst a forest of trees.
 

About AF...

There is a certain amount of precision control when one uses MF.

Some photographers rather compose and then focus instead of focus and re-compose. Just habitual, I believe. So in that sense, MF override is better than AF for them.

Then there is the element of "fine AF" versus "large area AF" which means accuracy. In some tricky AF situations, S-AF+MF is a better solution to "fine tune" the composition. Like trying to pick up a tree in focus amongst a forest of trees.

I have it always S-AF+MF all the time just incase I need to fine tune but there are instances where Oly cant really AF... MF to the rescue
 

But my computer hooked up to a piano keyboard via MIDI can play the piece far more accurately...and if you get a few midi boxes you can have a whole orchestra playing more accurately than humans can play the piece, and I say this both as a regular musician, and an electronic one.

And if you want the computer can play the minute waltz in a few seconds! :bsmilie:

Yes, and in the early days of MIDI with my digital piano, I wrote my own software to record my playing and to play it back, of course. Hopefully, it's a lot more advanced than at that time. It seems to me that the dynamic range wasn't quite enough to simulate a live situation.
 

I have it always S-AF+MF all the time just incase I need to fine tune but there are instances where Oly cant really AF... MF to the rescue

I do that too, always on SF-MF mode, plus I changed that movie quick button thing to switch between MF. Very useful I think for people like me who sometimes feel like trying out MF, its the fastest way to between the mode.
 

Last edited:
Back
Top