im not sure where to get them in sg, but im told canon service center at harbour front should have them. can give them a call and check. i got mine while in the US. mm.. i use a 50 1.2 with the EC screen with confidence. and yes, it is abit darker, but i use 2.8 and 3.5 lenses without issue. 5.6 start getting very dark though.
Manual focus Nikkor Lens on Nikon Digital Body
- Thread starter magicdragon
- Start date
Ok thanks for your info, appreciate it. May I know the price you paid for yours?
mm.. $35 usd from amazon i think. something like that.
Hi Diediealsomustdive,
I mean the meter does not give accurate reading in consideration of the aperture that i have set.
wah...like this need to lean how to read the histogram. In the old days with F4 body, i could set the mode to Aperture priority and the meter will auto set the speed. So it's not possible for such things in the DSLR world? sorry...old man with old camera.
kinda not advance leh.does this happen also if i were to get new Zeiss ZF.2 lens?
so how to use manual lens for street photo on dslr? need to focus, need to adjust speed, need to read histogram...subject run liao..
Thanks
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diediealsomustdive
Senior Member
Hi Diediealsomustdive,
I mean the meter does not give accurate reading in consideration of the aperture that i have set.
wah...like this need to lean how to read the histogram. In the old days with F4 body, i could set the mode to Aperture priority and the meter will auto set the speed. So it's not possible for such things in the DSLR world? sorry...old man with old camera.
does this happen also if i were to get new Zeiss ZF.2 lens?
so how to use manual lens for street photo on dslr? need to focus, need to adjust speed, need to read histogram...subject run liao..
Thanks
I assume you know how to use MF lens then. My mistake. In the old days of film, F4, unless you shot slides, frequently mistakes are masked by the latitude of the negative film and processing played a large role in the final prints, much like today we post process our shots in raw. Perhaps you can let us know what camera you are using and post a photo or 2 to show how inaccurate the meter was?
If you manually key in your lens type you should be able to get the right exposure. ZF.2 no need to key in lens type.
Thanks for the info. Hmmm if its at this price, its pretty pricy. Will call canon tmr.
well.. considering that focusingscreens.com sells for $157 after shipping and no brand options from orion photo cost $68 i think its quite a bargain.
diediealsomustdive
Senior Member
Hi Diediealsomustdive,
thank you for the offer to help.
The camera is D800E. Lens is 105mm F2.5. Sorry for noob question.
here is the picture.
thanks
OK, metering 101.
Meter reads reflected light, so it has no way of knowing the actual brightness of the scene. So some "standard" has to be set for the meter to respond to, IIRC it is 18% grey - take an average scene with average tonal range (no super high contrast or very bright sky, for example), this 18% grey works quite well. So shooting very dark scene - the scene turns out grey (camera exposing longer thinking there is less light than there actually is), and shoot a very bright scene, like snow, also turn out grey (camera thinks there is more light than there actually is).
In come matrix metering - a computerized algorithm that you have no way of knowing what is happening. And you probably shot with matrix in your meter setting.
So if you want to know how your meter behaves, turn camera away from matrix and use centre weighted or spot. If it is dark, underexpose a bit as starting point, if it is white, over expose. In your photo, better to use spot meter and meter on the guy's face. Play around and learn how the meter behaves.
Hope this helps.
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JimmyChooShoots
Member
Allow me to add to "ddamd's" comments.
Firstly, I see bb used Centre Weighted metering which would have been a 12mm-diameter circle with a non-CPU lens. A greater portion of this circle must have covered the brighter background than the darker pants and shirt of the subject, resulting in the subject being under-exposed. BB, what you should have done was to put this circle on the subject's face(as ddamd suggested) and use AE-L to lock in the exposure, then re-compose the picture and shoot. You can also use Spot-Metering in the same way.
Secondly,(this is apart from bb's query) why don't you dial in your non-CPU lens' data into the camera? By doing so, your camera can use the lens data to provide colour matrix metering; otherwise Matrix Metering would not be available. Also if the lens' data are in the camera menu, they will improve "the precision of centre-weighted and spot-metering and i-TTL balanced fill flash..." - pg 212.
Trust this is useful.
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Hi DDMD and JCS,
lazy to type the long nicks ....really appreciate your time to reply with long post. many thanks for your patience..
I just check the exif. The shot was taken with Center Weighted. Just to give some background...that shot was taken right after i bought the D800E from Funan...haha..and this is my first DSLR...all the past 20+yrs...i use digital compact and film.
That was my 30th shot from the camera...hehe..i have used spot metering, centre and matrix of the F4..i still prefer centre as i can control where i want to take the meter reading from...when i mounted the lens, i thought i could just set the aperture on the dslr...and the meter will take reading from where i aim the centre...i don't use the AE/F lock...i usually use the half click method...hopes that still works like old school....take reading from face...focus...then set speed...then recompose...shoot.
Now after JCS explanation, i will go read how to enter the lens data.
however...it is still not as direct as reading the meter off the dslr ...bec the aperture on the camera is wrong or not selectable...so i guess i need to compensate myself...i notice the dslr shows f0 when i was using f2.5...so maybe i just need to learn to compensate from there..+ 2 stops on speed? then i realise...wah..need to set manual mode...then can set speed.. a bit troublesome...but no choice...need to retrain...too slow for street photo.
i can probably take shots faster using my old film camera
I wonder how the senior or old CSers do it? i see a lot like to use old nikkor and Zeiss lens.
I have emailed brightscreenstore.com to ask about their diagonal focussing screens...seems like owner in hospital...
lazy to type the long nicks
....really appreciate your time to reply with long post. many thanks for your patience..I just check the exif. The shot was taken with Center Weighted. Just to give some background...that shot was taken right after i bought the D800E from Funan...haha..and this is my first DSLR...all the past 20+yrs...i use digital compact and film.
That was my 30th shot from the camera...hehe..i have used spot metering, centre and matrix of the F4..i still prefer centre as i can control where i want to take the meter reading from...when i mounted the lens, i thought i could just set the aperture on the dslr...and the meter will take reading from where i aim the centre...i don't use the AE/F lock...i usually use the half click method...hopes that still works like old school.
...take reading from face...focus...then set speed...then recompose...shoot.Now after JCS explanation, i will go read how to enter the lens data.
however...it is still not as direct as reading the meter off the dslr ...bec the aperture on the camera is wrong or not selectable...so i guess i need to compensate myself...i notice the dslr shows f0 when i was using f2.5...so maybe i just need to learn to compensate from there..+ 2 stops on speed? then i realise...wah..need to set manual mode...then can set speed.. a bit troublesome...but no choice...need to retrain...too slow for street photo.
i can probably take shots faster using my old film camera
I wonder how the senior or old CSers do it? i see a lot like to use old nikkor and Zeiss lens.
I have emailed brightscreenstore.com to ask about their diagonal focussing screens...seems like owner in hospital...
however...it is still not as direct as reading the meter off the dslr ...bec the aperture on the camera is wrong or not selectable...so i guess i need to compensate myself...i notice the dslr shows f0 when i was using f2.5...so maybe i just need to learn to compensate from there..+ 2 stops on speed? then i realise...wah..need to set manual mode...then can set speed.. a bit troublesome...but no choice...need to retrain...too slow for street photo.
i can probably take shots faster using my old film camera
I wonder how the senior or old CSers do it? i see a lot like to use old nikkor and Zeiss lens.
I have emailed brightscreenstore.com to ask about their diagonal focussing screens...seems like owner in hospital...
once you enter lens info the camera will show the correct f stop and be able to use matrix metering accurately. you can also program any of the function buttons to change lens data if you re using alot of manual lenses. thats how we do it =P if you would like the camera to do AE-L when you half press the shutter you ll need to turn it on in the custom menus under exposure.
F4-D800 is a big jump! lot of new things to learn to speed up operation. have lots of fun!
diediealsomustdive
Senior Member
Under Setup Menu
(Text from DP Review)
Non-CPU lens data
• Done
• Lens number (1 - 9)
• Focal length (6 - 4000)
• Max aperture (F1.2 - F22)
For older manual focus lenses that do not provide electronic communication to the camera.
Put in and memorize your non-CPU lens data under lens numbers 1-9. Once you setup the Non-CPU lens data the exif will record the correct information on the file. As you click click the lens aperture your LCD will show the right aperture.
If you use this a lot and have a number of non-CPU lenses, then setup the item under MyMenu (lots to learn) so you can retrieve your lens data quickly. Mine looks something like this: (1) 24mm f/2.8; (2) 28mm f/2.8; (3) 28mm f/3.5; (4) 43mm f/3.5; (5) 50mm f/2; (6) 55mm f/2.8; (7) 70mm f/3.5; (8) 80mm f/4; (9) 80mm f/4.5. My current crop of MF lenses mountable on the D800 (minus the non-Ai ones).
Lenses (4), (7) (8) and (9) are zooms - setup for 43-86mm, 75-150E, 80-200mm f/4 and 80-200mm f/4.5.
BTW from f0 to f2.8 or f(anything) it is technically infinite number of stops, cause you start from 0, anything divided by 0 is infinity. See the other thread on MF Nikkors, our exif data are usually there with the photo. You may need to know how to see the exif data.
(Text from DP Review)
Non-CPU lens data
• Done
• Lens number (1 - 9)
• Focal length (6 - 4000)
• Max aperture (F1.2 - F22)
For older manual focus lenses that do not provide electronic communication to the camera.
Put in and memorize your non-CPU lens data under lens numbers 1-9. Once you setup the Non-CPU lens data the exif will record the correct information on the file. As you click click the lens aperture your LCD will show the right aperture.
If you use this a lot and have a number of non-CPU lenses, then setup the item under MyMenu (lots to learn) so you can retrieve your lens data quickly. Mine looks something like this: (1) 24mm f/2.8; (2) 28mm f/2.8; (3) 28mm f/3.5; (4) 43mm f/3.5; (5) 50mm f/2; (6) 55mm f/2.8; (7) 70mm f/3.5; (8) 80mm f/4; (9) 80mm f/4.5. My current crop of MF lenses mountable on the D800 (minus the non-Ai ones).
Lenses (4), (7) (8) and (9) are zooms - setup for 43-86mm, 75-150E, 80-200mm f/4 and 80-200mm f/4.5.
BTW from f0 to f2.8 or f(anything) it is technically infinite number of stops, cause you start from 0, anything divided by 0 is infinity. See the other thread on MF Nikkors, our exif data are usually there with the photo. You may need to know how to see the exif data.
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diediealsomustdive
Senior Member
You are welcome. I went the fn way earlier but quickly forgot how to do it because I don't shot often enough to remember. So do it the MyMenu way.
Hi Bros,
Old man play with AIS lens until pek chek...cannot get in focus without slit center focussing screen. so i went to get the 24-70mm lens.
as usual, without reading manual...went out to take pic minutes after purchase.
i realise one thing...i have set the AF lock with shutter button half press option...so i always aim the centre small red sq on eyes.
guess what...when i return home to check the files, i notice somehow the focus seems to be either at the neck or shirt or somewhere other than the eye.
may i know how big is the focus zone? just the small little red square? or do they take an average? just like the exposure meter?
damn pek chek man...results line noob. last time with split centre..i will aim the center line on the pupil. now i have no idea.
can the kind souls pls help teach?
Thanks in advance
Old man play with AIS lens until pek chek...cannot get in focus without slit center focussing screen. so i went to get the 24-70mm lens.
as usual, without reading manual...went out to take pic minutes after purchase.
i realise one thing...i have set the AF lock with shutter button half press option...so i always aim the centre small red sq on eyes.
guess what...when i return home to check the files, i notice somehow the focus seems to be either at the neck or shirt or somewhere other than the eye.
may i know how big is the focus zone? just the small little red square? or do they take an average? just like the exposure meter?
damn pek chek man...results line noob. last time with split centre..i will aim the center line on the pupil. now i have no idea.
can the kind souls pls help teach?
Thanks in advance
G-man
Senior Member
bitchbum said:
Hahaha sorry but your post made me laugh. Not in a bad way mind you. What aperture were you shooting at? Could it be focus plane shift?
By right if you focus and recompose, assuming your focus lock was on the eye, and recompose within the same plane the focus should stay no?
In answer to your question on the focus point size, it should be the size of that dot and the square surrounding it thereabouts. In terms of zone however I am not sure as I remember only using centre point focus when I was on Nikon system.
Sorry I can't help much.
