Lomo Fisheye 2

[nightbreed]

Goody!!! Thanks so much! :kiss:
You need collateral? Heez
Have a great time! I so wanna go HK for shopping end of the year.
*Must save money*

Hmm. Sorry, couldn't find the camera. The shops I went to were all selling new and shiny digital cameras. :bsmilie:

 

[casey4355]

Hmm. Sorry, couldn't find the camera. The shops I went to were all selling new and shiny digital cameras. :bsmilie:

Y sell S$50 cam when u can sell S$5K cams. :bsmilie: :bsmilie: :bsmilie:

 

[obliquez]

Hmm. Sorry, couldn't find the camera. The shops I went to were all selling new and shiny digital cameras. :bsmilie:

Oh.... Sad.. But hope you had a great time nevertheless!!!

My latest roll really sucked again. Only got 19 prints. :cry:

I just removed one colour from my coloursplash so I can use the white flash instead of the internal one. Hope it helps!
Still trying to finish my Fuji ISO200 films, why did I buy 3?? Grrr

 

[casey4355]

Oh.... Sad.. But hope you had a great time nevertheless!!!

My latest roll really sucked again. Only got 19 prints. :cry:

I just removed one colour from my coloursplash so I can use the white flash instead of the internal one. Hope it helps!
Still trying to finish my Fuji ISO200 films, why did I buy 3?? Grrr

if u do yor own scanning, u will b surprised the kind of shots that can b useable.
do give that a try.

 

[obliquez]

if u do yor own scanning, u will b surprised the kind of shots that can b useable.
do give that a try.

U mean get a printer with a negative scanner?

But I have to develop the negatives first izit? or can I scan from the roll directly after I finish?

Not very sure :embrass:

 

[casey4355]

U mean get a printer with a negative scanner?

But I have to develop the negatives first izit? or can I scan from the roll directly after I finish?

Not very sure :embrass:

i mean scan the negatives with a scanner.
i use epson V700 flatbed scanner.
surprising amount of detail it can squeeze out for bad pics.

my holga has only one aperture n shutter speed, many shots are not ideal.
getting to noe better now which situation will b alright though.

 

[joeszilvagyi]

Watch out for expired film and film stored in hot places.
This can be great film for playing around with or snapshots but I wouldn't trust it for anything important.

When film is manufactured it ships in an ideal state that will provide the best colour saturation and widest dynamic range. As film ages the colours will start to become less vibrant and the dynamic range will decrease. The expiration date is one way to identify when properly stored film will have lost it's punch.

Leaving film in a hot environment will also speed up the decay of quality in film. If you've ever left your camera in a hot car with a roll of film only to have it developed and see everything fogged you will know what I'm talking about.

There is a reason why they call it an expiration date.

 

[obliquez]

i mean scan the negatives with a scanner.
i use epson V700 flatbed scanner.
surprising amount of detail it can squeeze out for bad pics.

my holga has only one aperture n shutter speed, many shots are not ideal.
getting to noe better now which situation will b alright though.

Hi, Im sorry if i sound really ignorant, but does that mean I still have to get my rolls developed first, to get the negatives. Then I can use the recommended scanner to scan in the negatives?

So i will save on converting from negs to digital (CD).

Im considering just converting it straight to CD and not developing the photos. I see Grace Image costs $6.50/roll to do that. :dunno:

How much did ur scanner cost? If u dun mind me asking..

 

[casey4355]

Hi, Im sorry if i sound really ignorant, but does that mean I still have to get my rolls developed first, to get the negatives. Then I can use the recommended scanner to scan in the negatives?

So i will save on converting from negs to digital (CD).

Im considering just converting it straight to CD and not developing the photos. I see Grace Image costs $6.50/roll to do that. :dunno:

How much did ur scanner cost? If u dun mind me asking..

u have to develop the roll into negatives.
then u scan the negs with a scanner e.g. epson V700.
mayb its the smart scanning software that comes with it. Silverfast.
the scanned pics go to yor computer hard disk.

my epson scanner v700 cost $800+, its worth it if u do lots of scanning especially
medium format which can cost $18 per pic.
Here are some recommendations form Vortex.
http://forums.clubsnap.org/showthread.php?t=272163
$280 i think.

mayb u can ask grace to try to scan 1 or 2 if she can recover the pics.

 

[hueyyy]

this thread is on the lomo fisheye 2 right? i read in quite a few threads that pple get overexposed shots, OOF shots etc with their holgas etc. does this happen with the fisheye2? like, out of 1 film, do you get lots of REALLY CANNOT SAVE kind of shots? thanks! newbie to lomo here...just ordered my fisheye2!=D

 

[casey4355]

this thread is on the lomo fisheye 2 right? i read in quite a few threads that pple get overexposed shots, OOF shots etc with their holgas etc. does this happen with the fisheye2? like, out of 1 film, do you get lots of REALLY CANNOT SAVE kind of shots? thanks! newbie to lomo here...just ordered my fisheye2!=D

lomo is not so bad, there is metering and compensation via asa setting.
holgas have no metering, one aperture n one shutter speed, for bright sunny day.
exposure for holga can b a problem, focusing is not so critical bcos its a wide angle.

 

[TrailsofLife]

this thread is on the lomo fisheye 2 right? i read in quite a few threads that pple get overexposed shots, OOF shots etc with their holgas etc. does this happen with the fisheye2? like, out of 1 film, do you get lots of REALLY CANNOT SAVE kind of shots? thanks! newbie to lomo here...just ordered my fisheye2!=D

For fisheye, the focus distance is like from very close to infinity. So dun worry about getting out of focus shots from it, you can't manual focus anyway.

for holga, its range focusing, there's 4 distance icons to chose from, a half body human icon for about 1-3m range, a small group of people icon for 3-5m range, large group of people for 5-10m & a mountain for more tha 10m to infinity. So if you set the correct range, you should get the right focus. Exposure is basically how much you know about the film you used. ISO 100/200 for daylight, daytime shoot. ISO400/800/1600/3200 is for lowlight/night time. if you use ISO 800 to shoot daytime shoot, most likely you get overexposed shots.

 

[hueyyy]

lomo is not so bad, there is metering and compensation via asa setting.
holgas have no metering, one aperture n one shutter speed, for bright sunny day.
exposure for holga can b a problem, focusing is not so critical bcos its a wide angle.

huh? er..your answer quite confusing. haha. fisheye2 also has 1 aperture, shutter is either 1/100 or bulb..is there metering and compensation? how to do that via asa setting? (erm. im assuming its the same asa as the one stated on film??) thanks though!

 

[hueyyy]

For fisheye, the focus distance is like from very close to infinity. So dun worry about getting out of focus shots from it, you can't manual focus anyway.

for holga, its range focusing, there's 4 distance icons to chose from, a half body human icon for about 1-3m range, a small group of people icon for 3-5m range, large group of people for 5-10m & a mountain for more tha 10m to infinity. So if you set the correct range, you should get the right focus. Exposure is basically how much you know about the film you used. ISO 100/200 for daylight, daytime shoot. ISO400/800/1600/3200 is for lowlight/night time. if you use ISO 800 to shoot daytime shoot, most likely you get overexposed shots.

OKAY! THANKS! now i understand. haha.

 

[casey4355]

huh? er..your answer quite confusing. haha. fisheye2 also has 1 aperture, shutter is either 1/100 or bulb..is there metering and compensation? how to do that via asa setting? (erm. im assuming its the same asa as the one stated on film??) thanks though!

u can cheat the camera to give more exposure by setting a slower asa than the film used.
or vise versa

 

[hueyyy]

Oh.... Sad.. But hope you had a great time nevertheless!!!

My latest roll really sucked again. Only got 19 prints. :cry:

I just removed one colour from my coloursplash so I can use the white flash instead of the internal one. Hope it helps!
Still trying to finish my Fuji ISO200 films, why did I buy 3?? Grrr

i just developed my first roll today. 19prints also!

 

[obliquez]

i just developed my first roll today. 19prints also!

I changed developer and just collected my 6th roll yesterday. 35 prints!! and quite nice colours for some...

I really wonder whether my neighbourhood developer screwed up my film. :cry:

But nvm, I'm never gng back there.. Now that I found a more reliable one

 

[freakingloving]

hellos. just wanna find out for expired films, are the effects nice?

and also is agfa films really that good? why everyone seems to be ordering online for them?

 

[theethythou]

Watch out for expired film and film stored in hot places.
This can be great film for playing around with or snapshots but I wouldn't trust it for anything important.

When film is manufactured it ships in an ideal state that will provide the best colour saturation and widest dynamic range. As film ages the colours will start to become less vibrant and the dynamic range will decrease. The expiration date is one way to identify when properly stored film will have lost it's punch.

Leaving film in a hot environment will also speed up the decay of quality in film. If you've ever left your camera in a hot car with a roll of film only to have it developed and see everything fogged you will know what I'm talking about.

There is a reason why they call it an expiration date.

So in other words... normal film left in hot places = fake expired film? Like how fire is used to make calligraphy look ancient? And will such films damage the camera (I'm going to use FE2)?

Sorry I'm a noob at this. ^^;

 

[joeszilvagyi]

So in other words... normal film left in hot places = fake expired film? Like how fire is used to make calligraphy look ancient? And will such films damage the camera (I'm going to use FE2)?

Sorry I'm a noob at this. ^^;

Nothing to be sorry about. I'll only complain if you ask the same questions over and over again.

Unless the film has gotten brittle and seems to flake in your hands (I've only heard of this happening with very very old film left in a hot, dry place once) you don't have to worry about damaging your camera.

I just caution against using expired film early on when learning because it will give inconsistent results. I used a whole brick of 10 year old Tri-X back when I was in school and learned a lot about the characteristics of that film with different developers and developing techniques but I didn't do that until the second year. Make sure you learn the basics and can quickly identify a well exposed/developed negative before you start experimenting. It may seem like it's costing more at first but the savings in film processing and time will more than make up for it.

Have fun.