Lightings

[MatCh]

Let assume your scenerio and settings are facts. Doesn't matter whether in Av, Tv or M mode, as with this combination you get this exposure issue.

1. If the ambient or background is under and aperture already widest, nothing you can do to the aperture other than changing to a faster lens. The other options are either slow down the shutter or raise ISO.

2. Slowing the shutter will not affect the flash, but as you've mentioned may cause motion blur. So unless subject is relatively in the shadow and the flash can freeze it, this option may be out too.

3. Raise ISO will affect flash. And since flash is already at the lowest power, you can't lower it further. So either have a less powerful flash, diffuser it or bounce it.

Options are always limited when you are at the limits of your equipment.


PS - of course one can use many slave flashes to light the entire scene up too.

i had a similar conclusion as yours

the solution i thought of is to either use a sort of diffuser/soft box to soften the flash and up the iso, no idea if it works tho
not sure if there are other solutions

otherwise, i think it could be a "**** out of luck" situation?

 

[Kenneth67C]

i'm considering shutter speed to be 1/60 for the scenario where the subject is not stationary, thus 1/60 to minimize motion blur from the subject.
actually i should be thinking any shutter speed is fine so long i don't get any motion blur from the subject?
but too long a shutter speed will get motion blur from the subject, although trade-off gets the background will get better exposed?

i'm thinking if bouncing the flash from the ceiling or using a sort of diffuser/soft box will help, any ideas?

Usually for weddings and in a HDB, you can get away with 1/30 or 1/45s. Bouncing the flash off the ceiling is recommended as long as the ceiling is white - this will give very even lighting. Of course your handholding skills have to be decent otherwise you will get blurred shots from camera shake.

The ceiling is usually the best softbox already. If you are using the 580ex or equivalent, remember to lift out the white card (only), so that the subject's eyes have catchlights. It also helps to remove unwanted shadows.

 

[Dream Merchant]

I didn't read through the entire thread, so forgive me if someone else already mentioned it.

TS, I'm assuming a Canon system and Canon flash.

Remember that things are somewhat different with the EOS flash system because their designers think differently.

Your camera/flash model also plays a crucial part in how the entire system works (restrictions, defaults and customizations).

Read the Canon Flash Bible for more info, but unfortunately, that was before the latest models like the 60D and 7D. For this, you would have to search.

Also moving to Canon section as some EOS flash users might be better able to answer your questions given your equipment.

 

[Deloi]

Usually for weddings and in a HDB, you can get away with 1/30 or 1/45s. Bouncing the flash off the ceiling is recommended as long as the ceiling is white - this will give very even lighting. Of course your handholding skills have to be decent otherwise you will get blurred shots from camera shake.

The ceiling is usually the best softbox already. If you are using the 580ex or equivalent, remember to lift out the white card (only), so that the subject's eyes have catchlights. It also helps to remove unwanted shadows.

i have a question, what if the ceiling and walls is not white? i have a photoshoot 2 weeks from now and the ceiling and the walls is off white. I'm planning to use a bounce card (i intend to create something like this site http://www.themoment2cherish.com/DIY-Bounce-Card/ recommends). would that help? or should i just adjust the WB to compensate the color of the ceiling or walls to which i'm bouncing the flash?

 

[Kenneth67C]

i have a question, what if the ceiling and walls is not white? i have a photoshoot 2 weeks from now and the ceiling and the walls is off white. I'm planning to use a bounce card (i intend to create something like this site http://www.themoment2cherish.com/DIY-Bounce-Card/ recommends). would that help? or should i just adjust the WB to compensate the color of the ceiling or walls to which i'm bouncing the flash?

Yes, that certainly will help although it will still not produce as even lighting as bouncing off the ceiling.
I'd suggest you shoot in RAW, at least you have the option to correct any color cast later.
The only issue I see with that device is that during weddings, you are usually pressed for time. So unless you can quickly fit/remove the bounce card, you might either get impatient guests, or miss a shot.

The 580EX2 has a small white card. All you have to do is to lift that up and angle the flash forward a bit, maybe 60deg. With the white ceilings, shoot straight up with the white card. If you can go onsite before hand, go and do so test shots to get a feel.

 

[Deloi]

i have a nissin di622 mark II. it also has a little white bounce card. I think i'll go with the little white card and 60deg tilt rather than shoot raw. Also as suggested I'll check the venue ahead of time to make some test shots. if i have time, i'll still make the DIY large bounce card for group pictures perhaps. Thanks Kenneth67C!

 

[Kenneth67C]

i have a nissin di622 mark II. it also has a little white bounce card. I think i'll go with the little white card and 60deg tilt rather than shoot raw. Also as suggested I'll check the venue ahead of time to make some test shots. if i have time, i'll still make the DIY large bounce card for group pictures perhaps. Thanks Kenneth67C!

Welcome Deloi.

When you pull out the white bounce card, leave the diffuser(clear white plastic) in place, otherwise you might risk underexposure or it will drain your batteries fast.
You can both use the bounce card AND shoot RAW at the same time, they are not mutually exclusive. Shooting RAW gives you that extra flexibility and control over the pictures, so use it.