Leica MP and summilux lens
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xylestesins
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Scanning wise i myself have heard of bad comments even though i still use their scanning service, and it hasn't been terrible for me.
Development, for color negatives i have never experienced a problem yet. Slides, you can't complain because they are the only lab in Singapore to process E6 (the other labs who "process" E6 sends their stuff there as well).
B&W Development, sometimes my roll can be grainier than wanted, and the results may fluctuate from time to time, though i cannot confirm if it's due to my emulsion or their development. I would develop at Ruby if i have the time to go down there though.
For me at least, Yes, it is good enough.
Oh - and partially cause i work at an office located just above fotohub in bugis, so it's extremely convenient for me. In fact, some days i drop by every few hours to pester the staff when they get slow :bsmilie:
Development, for color negatives i have never experienced a problem yet. Slides, you can't complain because they are the only lab in Singapore to process E6 (the other labs who "process" E6 sends their stuff there as well).
B&W Development, sometimes my roll can be grainier than wanted, and the results may fluctuate from time to time, though i cannot confirm if it's due to my emulsion or their development. I would develop at Ruby if i have the time to go down there though.
For me at least, Yes, it is good enough.
Oh - and partially cause i work at an office located just above fotohub in bugis, so it's extremely convenient for me. In fact, some days i drop by every few hours to pester the staff when they get slow :bsmilie:
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Ah i see. So if i do my developing at Ruby or Fotohub, and do the scanning myself using a top grade scanner like Nikon 9000 or something, will i be able to get professional quality results?
Or do i have to do all the darkroom developing myself?
Because i've seen like really top notch scans by people that look like digital. haha
So i'm looking to get that kind of quality
Or do i have to do all the darkroom developing myself?
Because i've seen like really top notch scans by people that look like digital. haha
So i'm looking to get that kind of quality
dude, there was much promise in this thread about m7 or mp and film developing...
but if you're looking for "scans that look like digital", you should have just gotten yourself a m8.2...
:bheart:
i'm sorry, maybe i didn't frame it right
i mean after looking at CS member scans like Dove Vadar's and Ervine lims, their scans all come out really nice and clean, yet still possess the characteristics of film.
That's what i was trying to get at.
I don't want my scans to come out looking like the really bad ones i see on flickr.
So i'm trying to figure out if it's in the developing or the scanning. Scanning i already have it covered, if i get a good scanner. But developing, i don't know where the quality photo labs are. So that's what i'm trying to get at.
i mean after looking at CS member scans like Dove Vadar's and Ervine lims, their scans all come out really nice and clean, yet still possess the characteristics of film.
That's what i was trying to get at.
I don't want my scans to come out looking like the really bad ones i see on flickr.
So i'm trying to figure out if it's in the developing or the scanning. Scanning i already have it covered, if i get a good scanner. But developing, i don't know where the quality photo labs are. So that's what i'm trying to get at.
xylestesins
New Member
If you worry about noise from scanner, don't worry about it! Most scanners, even the flatbed which is not recommended for 35mm can give you at least pretty decent scans with the right technique & settings.
Fotohub uses a Noritsu drum scanner.
And by the way, Nikon 9000 really is top of the line (probably overkill, if you only upload internet or do small prints) there is absolutely no doubt you can achieve pro-level scans as long as you have decent knowledge of the settings. A more affordable and popular scanner will be the Coolscan 4000/5000. As the usual saying goes - dedicated 35mm film scanners runs rings around flatbeds for 35mm! Even a $300USD or so Plustek scanner is good enough for most hobbyists.
P.s. - Save on the scanner if you don't need unarguable quality of scans. Get a Noctilux instead! :thumbsup:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/kaze-on-flickr/
If it will help, here's my flickr for you to preview the quality of scans from Fotohub
I trust you should be able to tell which are the film shots (P.s. - Some photos may look noisy due to artificial brightening in photoshop, cause i shoot by guesstimate on slide film and my guess goes wrong at times. Not a problem which is attributed to the scanning!)
Fotohub uses a Noritsu drum scanner.
And by the way, Nikon 9000 really is top of the line (probably overkill, if you only upload internet or do small prints) there is absolutely no doubt you can achieve pro-level scans as long as you have decent knowledge of the settings. A more affordable and popular scanner will be the Coolscan 4000/5000. As the usual saying goes - dedicated 35mm film scanners runs rings around flatbeds for 35mm! Even a $300USD or so Plustek scanner is good enough for most hobbyists.
P.s. - Save on the scanner if you don't need unarguable quality of scans. Get a Noctilux instead! :thumbsup:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/kaze-on-flickr/
If it will help, here's my flickr for you to preview the quality of scans from Fotohub
I trust you should be able to tell which are the film shots (P.s. - Some photos may look noisy due to artificial brightening in photoshop, cause i shoot by guesstimate on slide film and my guess goes wrong at times. Not a problem which is attributed to the scanning!)
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Thanks for your page. I shall take a look when i have some time.
I'm not only looking for a 35mm scanner but a 120mm scanner as well since the contax 645 is using 120mm film
Are there any other good scanners that take in both?
I shoot weddings professionally so i will be making large prints of my photos. Not just posting online.
I'm not only looking for a 35mm scanner but a 120mm scanner as well since the contax 645 is using 120mm film
Are there any other good scanners that take in both?
I shoot weddings professionally so i will be making large prints of my photos. Not just posting online.
xylestesins
New Member
Oh! In that case, you may consider the Minolta Dimage Scan MultiPro!
Top of the line for the Minolta scanners. Takes both 35mm and 120mm, produces excellent results without having to fork out unreasonable amounts for a pro-level scanner.
Top of the line for the Minolta scanners. Takes both 35mm and 120mm, produces excellent results without having to fork out unreasonable amounts for a pro-level scanner.
xylestesins
New Member
I have no idea, but you might like to try the large online camera dealers like Adorama. I don't think B&H carries, the last i checked.
Or....... EBAY. :devil:
Or....... EBAY. :devil:
if you want to print film, print from negative, don't scan and print via digital... results are worlds apart!!
but scan to share (online) or check details...
If you shoot professionally, then I suggest that you get the top of the line scanner you can find...
I would suggest Coolscan 9000ED that also scans multiformat or the Flextight X1 or the Flextight X5 if money is not an issue.
Several professionals that I know shoot film for weddings too. I believe it will set you apart from others if your client can tell the difference.
As for printing, if you can get good digital files from scans, the output is not an issue anymore.
BTW, congrats on your Leica & Contax 645 purchase... both are my dream cameras, but too bad, I don't earn a living from shooting pictures... I would definitely use them if I shoot professionally.
I would suggest Coolscan 9000ED that also scans multiformat or the Flextight X1 or the Flextight X5 if money is not an issue.
Several professionals that I know shoot film for weddings too. I believe it will set you apart from others if your client can tell the difference.
As for printing, if you can get good digital files from scans, the output is not an issue anymore.
BTW, congrats on your Leica & Contax 645 purchase... both are my dream cameras, but too bad, I don't earn a living from shooting pictures... I would definitely use them if I shoot professionally.
wah the flextight is damn crazy. 16,000 bucks
A lil too out of budget. But i would buy it if i had the money. I think i'll just get the nikon 9000.
Do you guys use natural density filters? I can't shoot at f1.4 in daylight because the max shutterspeed is 1/1000!
How how? Damn suakuuu
A lil too out of budget. But i would buy it if i had the money. I think i'll just get the nikon 9000.
Do you guys use natural density filters? I can't shoot at f1.4 in daylight because the max shutterspeed is 1/1000!
How how? Damn suakuuu
Yatlapball
Senior Member
*must* you only shoot only wide open? reading through all the posts so far, i am not quite sure where you are headed with rangefinder-style photography.
but in the interest of sharing knowledge around and also learning from others, here's my contribution.
Going by the rough sunny f16 rule (which is actually fairly accurate. heh), even with ISO50 film, you will hit f/2.8 at 1/1000s in bright daylight under the sun. Alternatives? I have no idea if you can find a ND filter that size, on 2nd thoughts, you probably can. But have to order. Then you will have to contend with the usual arguments from people that say "Why put a lousy piece of glass in front of your very good leica glass?!" Or alternatively, you can rate the ISO 50 film to something like 25? 12? 6? and try to pull-process it.
but in the interest of sharing knowledge around and also learning from others, here's my contribution.
Going by the rough sunny f16 rule (which is actually fairly accurate. heh), even with ISO50 film, you will hit f/2.8 at 1/1000s in bright daylight under the sun. Alternatives? I have no idea if you can find a ND filter that size, on 2nd thoughts, you probably can. But have to order. Then you will have to contend with the usual arguments from people that say "Why put a lousy piece of glass in front of your very good leica glass?!" Or alternatively, you can rate the ISO 50 film to something like 25? 12? 6? and try to pull-process it.
yeah you're right, i may not be suitable for RF photography. But i've always wanted to be a street shooting photojournalist.
So i'm gonna figure out rf photography by hook or by crook and get it right.
I don't think it can be THAT difficult. It's just a matter of getting used to it.
I shoot wide all the time on the 5dmark II, so thats why i'm wondering why i can't do the same for the leica.
I'm not going to do that ALL the time for street photography since there's no need to subject isolating shots all the time. But it would be nice to be able to do, if i DO have a shot in mind.
How then, am i going to get background isolating depth of field blurriness with the m7 in daylight if my max shutter speed is 1/1000
At least the M8 has 1/8000!
So i'm gonna figure out rf photography by hook or by crook and get it right.
I don't think it can be THAT difficult. It's just a matter of getting used to it.
I shoot wide all the time on the 5dmark II, so thats why i'm wondering why i can't do the same for the leica.
I'm not going to do that ALL the time for street photography since there's no need to subject isolating shots all the time. But it would be nice to be able to do, if i DO have a shot in mind.
How then, am i going to get background isolating depth of field blurriness with the m7 in daylight if my max shutter speed is 1/1000
At least the M8 has 1/8000!
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Yatlapball
Senior Member
Anyway you can't compare like that I guess. Mechanical cloth shutter vs Electronic metal shutter.
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