Larger Format Photography


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yes... its me. :)

I cannot remember who (I think it is Master Billy or ShadowLeong if not wrong), but someone here asked me about shooting with paper quite sometime ago and I replied something like:

"If you shoot directly with paper, there will be an issue of a negative image formed on the paper, you will have to do a B&W reversal processing (Mostlikely have to use something like potassium alum to harden the emulsion as the paper emulsion will be quite bad after the acid removal bath) or use a direct positive paper instead."

I was surfing the net and happened to came across this. Maybe can visit to see the result of those who shoot directly with paper. Developed papers are around 1.8D so those scanned result are quite accurate reproduction of the tone and D you get with paper.

OP just gotten in few packs of 25sheets shanghai 100 4*5, if you are getting, please don't clear shelf as there might be others who want it. Also, please help remind shop about my order for E100VS, waited for sometime since I place order liao.:sweat:
 

something might excite you here.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YY141C3mQKA

I cannot remember who (I think it is Master Billy or ShadowLeong if not wrong), but someone here asked me about shooting with paper quite sometime ago and I replied something like:

"If you shoot directly with paper, there will be an issue of a negative image formed on the paper, you will have to do a B&W reversal processing (Mostlikely have to use something like potassium alum to harden the emulsion as the paper emulsion will be quite bad after the acid removal bath) or use a direct positive paper instead."

I was surfing the net and happened to came across this. Maybe can visit to see the result of those who shoot directly with paper. Developed papers are around 1.8D so those scanned result are quite accurate reproduction of the tone and D you get with paper.

OP just gotten in few packs of 25sheets shanghai 100 4*5, if you are getting, please don't clear shelf as there might be others who want it. Also, please help remind shop about my order for E100VS, waited for sometime since I place order liao.:sweat:
 

Hi all, I have been following this thread with interest and wonder which 4x5 camera is good to start with?

It actually depends on what you wanna shoot.

It took me a long while to decide between a monorail like A sinar F or calumet.
They really have fantastic movements that can be used for a wide range of things despite being heavy.
Thats the only downside really.

I chose a speed graphic mainly cause of its size, weight and its built-in focal plane shutter so I can use barrel lenes (Lens without a shutter) in the future
The other reason being I don't see myself doing much architecture so I won't uiltilse any back movements.(Folders tend to have fixed back standards excerpt for the charmonix or shen hao models, its very limited anyway cause of design while movements on a monorail is limited by the bellows ) Give and take here and there.
Like many things in photography they all come with trade offs. the trick is to figure out which ones are right for you.

For me cost is also an issue. To have a better idea of how the different types work or functions you could join us if we have anymore gatherings to witness them in action. :)

Be prepared to spend quite a sum of money as you assemble your system as they tend to come in bits and bobs. Rest in mind its still much cheaper to have a basic kit compared to MF systems
 

I think Sinar F is actually one of the lightest around. Sinar F manual even teaches you how to pack down for bag transport.

When I was in Melbourne studying I could pack the F1 into my knapsack and just head out, of course now I use my trolley and got a proper hardcover case for it.
 

I see. Thanks for all the info, alot of stuff to digest.

Have been reading around n it really seem that quite a lot if misc items are needed to get started.

Does the speed or crown graphic allow change of lens to a different focal length?
 

Hi Keechoon,

Yup, up to 300mm I think.

I'm using a 75mm, 135mm and 178mm on mine.

I see. Thanks for all the info, alot of stuff to digest.

Have been reading around n it really seem that quite a lot if misc items are needed to get started.

Does the speed or crown graphic allow change of lens to a different focal length?
 

Hi Keechoon,I also like to point you to this page http://www.largeformatphotography.info/matos-begin.html that has a very nice write up on the equipment you need. You can also borrow this book : Large format nature photography / Jack Dykinga from the library. i just checked the online catalogue. All copies of this book in the various libraries are not on loan. :) In the book you see the good examples of LF format and the various movements that a LF cam can made.

Personally, I actually bought my monorail LF cam from ebay without selling and touching a LF cam before in my life. Then, I thought learning how to use the camera movements(tilt, swing, rise) would be something new to add on to my knowledge. yeah it came in a large bag and i have to use a trolley to pull it around if I want to shoot outdoor but I could also experiment with still life shots at home/ studio.
 

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"If you shoot directly with paper, there will be an issue of a negative image formed on the paper, you will have to do a B&W reversal processing (Mostlikely have to use something like potassium alum to harden the emulsion as the paper emulsion will be quite bad after the acid removal bath) or use a direct positive paper instead."

There's one more simpler option - contact print the negative image onto another print. Heard about this in a photography podcast - I have yet to try myself. Since one has to expose the paper below another paper, you'll just just the largest aperture on your enlarging lens, and use a relatively long exposure time. The interesting part about this approach is that you can touch up the 'negative' by using pencils to mask out the parts that you don't want!!
 

to all sifu 's',

I have with me a 75mm and a 210mm lens. Not sure if there is a need to get a 150mm lens.

75mm is good for framing the entire building or shooting wide landscapes.
210mm is good for portraits and some flower close up shots.

is 150mm a good to have lens ?
Like to seek some opinion which focal length of lens you use most of the time.

Weather spending the money to get a 150mm lens , will it end up collecting dust ?

many thanks,
Billy :)
 

There's one more simpler option - contact print the negative image onto another print. Heard about this in a photography podcast - I have yet to try myself. Since one has to expose the paper below another paper, you'll just just the largest aperture on your enlarging lens, and use a relatively long exposure time. The interesting part about this approach is that you can touch up the 'negative' by using pencils to mask out the parts that you don't want!!

I did tried pencil touch up before long ago. Cannot comment on printing paper above paper as I cannot answer stuff I never tried before.

to all sifu 's',

I have with me a 75mm and a 210mm lens. Not sure if there is a need to get a 150mm lens.

75mm is good for framing the entire building or shooting wide landscapes.
210mm is good for portraits and some flower close up shots.

is 150mm a good to have lens ?
Like to seek some opinion which focal length of lens you use most of the time.

Weather spending the money to get a 150mm lens , will it end up collecting dust ?

many thanks,
Billy :)

Master Billy,

I think this is more of a personal choice. It is better for you find your own answer after sometime of shooting.
 

hi losheng,

This is indeed very poisonous stuff.
cheap and good it seems.

For me, I just have to get some film holders and papers and some developing solutions to start rock and roll.
once I got the paper negatives developed, I need not use the enlarger to get the positive image. I can simply put it onto a scan bed and get the negatives converted onto positive !

Billy

I've just managed to find the podcast on the use of paper negatives from film photography forecast. One of the reasons given was that its cheaper than film! Sounds fun!
 

hi losheng,

...I need not use the enlarger to get the positive image. I can simply put it onto a scan bed and get the negatives converted onto positive !

Billy

But you know that a picture is not a photograph unless it is on a real photo paper, right? :)
 

There's one more simpler option - contact print the negative image onto another print. Heard about this in a photography podcast - I have yet to try myself. Since one has to expose the paper below another paper, you'll just just the largest aperture on your enlarging lens, and use a relatively long exposure time. The interesting part about this approach is that you can touch up the 'negative' by using pencils to mask out the parts that you don't want!!

I am thinking this approach will be more towards a reversal processing with second exposure. If after testing, if result doesn't turns very well as I suspect loss of detail on the reversal print, maybe you can try Ilford PQ developer 1 + 5 part of water premix with 12G/L of Sodium Thiosulfate for the negative paper.

All above are base on a mind simulation, so not of any accurate detail, but no harm trying.

But you know that a picture is not a photograph unless it is on a real photo paper, right? :)

I still like my slide projector more :)
 

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Thanks to all gurus for the information. Will be reading up more before deciding.
 

Thanks to all gurus for the information. Will be reading up more before deciding.

:nono:Me, Vege Bird.

Don't look at Kami foxtwo quiet quiet seldom post, he's very good and always stealth under the radar.
 

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:nono:Me, Vege Bird.

Don't look at Kami foxtwo quiet quiet seldom post, he's very good and always stealth under the radar.

nooo I seriously have little knowledge. I only dabble here dabble there.. hahha that's the absolute truth. If you ask me specific questions I will tell truthfully if I don't know anything.

tio arrow.... :(
 

nooo I seriously have little knowledge. I only dabble here dabble there.. hahha that's the absolute truth. If you ask me specific questions I will tell truthfully if I don't know anything.

tio arrow.... :(

Thats the point of a forum man! To share whatever that you know! And sometime we may figure it out together! Haha Looking forward to a day the lf users in singapore grow big enough for a lab to pick up 4x5. Crossing my fingers as its highly impossible!
 

nooo I seriously have little knowledge. I only dabble here dabble there.. hahha that's the absolute truth. If you ask me specific questions I will tell truthfully if I don't know anything.

tio arrow.... :(

Vege bird calling all angry bird gang!
Sniping down Kami foxtwo with arrow rain!
Standby for assault on Master Billy and Boss Nikkornos!

Thats the point of a forum man! To share whatever that you know! And sometime we may figure it out together! Haha Looking forward to a day the lf users in singapore grow big enough for a lab to pick up 4x5. Crossing my fingers as its highly impossible!

There might be one soon. Not done by me, but a friend of mine is interested in doing some slides processing for 4*5. I will not break the ice till the whole thing is confirmed for now. The guy is around but SHhhhh!!!!.

I am browsing the net and happened to see an APUG thread about Zone Placement which I think should be brought up and have a read on those just jumped from camera with inbuilt meter or a simple reflective meter attached and are planning to shoot sheet films or anything even larger. Even if you are not, it is a good thread on views about Zone.
http://www.apug.org/forums/forum37/95824-zone-placement.html
 

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