Larger Format Photography


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The closest link I can find is this. http://www.clubsnap.com/forums/threads/143329-Large-Format-Group/page4

Perhaps should start a new topic as suggest on share some large format photos. :)

I would gladly start one, Its just that I have no LF yet haha!

@Wootsk My graphic is not here yet so I have yet to go and hunt for a tripod, but considering a pan head cause balls heads are too "free' for my liking.

Anyways I emailed KEH bout my order and they have yet to ship it out when i ordered last wk, So i asked them to hold it first while i try to find a lens or some film holders to share shipping if nt bo hua. I have a few options

Either i just get the camera without len or holders (1)

Or I try to hunt for a lens + a board on their site (2)

Best is i can find a cheap lens with a board so I dont have to get it seperately (3)

The problem is I tried googling and i still cant figure out what lens board does the graphic take?

Anyone has a budget/ cheaper lens to intro for beginner? (Cause i wanna keep it under 400sgd to avoid GST) or if anyone ordered from KEH and knows how to avoid the gst lemme know! Im on a tight budget!!

Just something to get the ball rolling. I'll get something else when i understand my needs better when i start to actually use it.

Film holders for 4x5 the brand doesnt matter right?? As long as it fits a gralock back? Everything is so ailen its like I stepped into a new world

Im thinking of getting a roll film back or a polaroid back for fp to learn the camera cause I dont wanna be wasting 4x5 film and my dev chemicals

Whats the rough pricing for a roll film back or a polaroid back??
Pleas advise???? =)
 

Hey shadowleong,

Try to get a lens with a lens board, and a holder, don't forget the film and changing bag too.

If you are going to just get a lens, make sure it comes with a retaining ring otherwise you can't mount it on the board.

Some of the older lens that come with the Graflex have no filter thread and some of them also have a bump at the back which might block it from going into the Graphic lens board, so if you are going to get an old lens like the Graflex Optar 135mm or Kodak Ektar 127mm etc, try to get it with a Graphic lens board, otherwise you have to shave the bump off. I got a Kodak Ektar 127mm for around 60 SGD though it came without a lens board.

The Graphic lens board looks something like this, it has rounded corners and its edges are bent inwards. It's just called the Graphic lens board.

You would also be looking at a Copal 0 sized hole for most lenses. Copal is the size and bigger numbers means bigger hole.

Newer lenses fit fine on the standard lens board, like my Fujinon 75mm, which is a Copal 0, so I just exchanged it with my Optar 135mm which was the original lens with my Graphic. You might also want to get a lens wrench to make it easier to remove the retaining ring if you plan to get more lenses.

Standard 4x5 film holders will work, I think someone was selling them on CS recently.

Roll film back, you can get the Graflex 23 Graphic Roll Film Back, 6x9. Should be around $100 to $150.

Polaroid back for Fuji FP-100c is the Polaroid 405, should be around $150 as well.

Both fits the Graflok back.

Tripod wise I use a Markins Q3 ballhead with a Benro Travel Angel, taken up to 45 minutes long exposure. It's still personal preference though.

You can read more about the Speed Graphic here http://graflex.org/speed-graphic/

Let me know if you need more info on the graphic!
 

My first large format shot.

Calumet 4x5 with 210mm F6.8 Caltar II-E
E100VS ( 6x12 film back )

lf002.jpg

Billy :)
 

grats billy! 6x12!!! the dragons are cute too hahah
 

I am currently using a 6x12 DaYi roll film back ( purchased from a CSer ), got it at about S$240.
Although this is a China brand, the built of this back feels like a German Tank ! hard solid metal parts and industrial feel. Not so friendly to use, but it will run forever it seems.

Im thinking of getting a roll film back or a polaroid back for fp to learn the camera cause I dont wanna be wasting 4x5 film and my dev chemicals

Whats the rough pricing for a roll film back or a polaroid back??
Pleas advise???? =)
 

Hey shadowleong,

Try to get a lens with a lens board, and a holder, don't forget the film and changing bag too.

If you are going to just get a lens, make sure it comes with a retaining ring otherwise you can't mount it on the board.

Some of the older lens that come with the Graflex have no filter thread and some of them also have a bump at the back which might block it from going into the Graphic lens board, so if you are going to get an old lens like the Graflex Optar 135mm or Kodak Ektar 127mm etc, try to get it with a Graphic lens board, otherwise you have to shave the bump off. I got a Kodak Ektar 127mm for around 60 SGD though it came without a lens board.

The Graphic lens board looks something like this, it has rounded corners and its edges are bent inwards. It's just called the Graphic lens board.

You would also be looking at a Copal 0 sized hole for most lenses. Copal is the size and bigger numbers means bigger hole.

Newer lenses fit fine on the standard lens board, like my Fujinon 75mm, which is a Copal 0, so I just exchanged it with my Optar 135mm which was the original lens with my Graphic. You might also want to get a lens wrench to make it easier to remove the retaining ring if you plan to get more lenses.

Standard 4x5 film holders will work, I think someone was selling them on CS recently.

Roll film back, you can get the Graflex 23 Graphic Roll Film Back, 6x9. Should be around $100 to $150.

Polaroid back for Fuji FP-100c is the Polaroid 405, should be around $150 as well.

Both fits the Graflok back.

Tripod wise I use a Markins Q3 ballhead with a Benro Travel Angel, taken up to 45 minutes long exposure. It's still personal preference though.

You can read more about the Speed Graphic here http://graflex.org/speed-graphic/

Let me know if you need more info on the graphic!


Thansk man!! That really helped a great deal!!! Guess I'll have to hunt for a lens mounted on a board then!! thanks sooo much!
 

Yes, they certainly are cute :)

Actually, this is the second shot that I took that morning. For the first shot, it did not turn out at all. I did not advance the roll to "number 1" at all, therefore, the first shot was exposed to PAPER ! I then slowly advance the film, saw the "number 1" came out through the round window.... but... I blur blur did not stop and continue until "number 3" !!!! what was I thinking ????

This place is definitely worth a second visit. The lighting condition in the morning is great at about 8am. The body of this dragon is colorful when the lights shine on it. It also creates a nice framing to the composition when view from the side. I have purchased a fujinon 75mm F5.6 and it is on the way here. When it arrives, will go visit this dragon again :)

Billy

grats billy! 6x12!!! the dragons are cute too hahah
 

Hey Billy,

Same thing happened to me when I first got my Rolleicord V2, I kept winding the film past 1 until 3 or 4, forgot to check the red window.

That's the thing with old cameras, they aren't foolproof, you just have to remember all the steps (:
 

Yes, they certainly are cute :)

Actually, this is the second shot that I took that morning. For the first shot, it did not turn out at all. I did not advance the roll to "number 1" at all, therefore, the first shot was exposed to PAPER ! I then slowly advance the film, saw the "number 1" came out through the round window.... but... I blur blur did not stop and continue until "number 3" !!!! what was I thinking ????

This place is definitely worth a second visit. The lighting condition in the morning is great at about 8am. The body of this dragon is colorful when the lights shine on it. It also creates a nice framing to the composition when view from the side. I have purchased a fujinon 75mm F5.6 and it is on the way here. When it arrives, will go visit this dragon again :)

Billy

So during that outing when you ask me how to advance the 120 back only to find the start line, my initial guess about the film not advanced before is correct?

I guess you have to be more careful when handling dark slide. Especially the idea of marking if the side is exposed already or not.
 

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Yes. You were right ! The film was only loaded but not advanced.

I have use a dummy roll of film to do some work already. I remove the dark side and then mark on the film where the shot is going to land. and then , I advance the roll and then mark again... Then, I remove the entire roll from the holder and see where are the shots landed "clearly"... hahaha...

good experience though.
Billy

So during that outing when you ask me how to advance the 120 back only to find the start line, my initial guess about the film not advanced before is correct?

I guess you have to be more careful when handling dark slide. Especially the idea of marking if the side is exposed already or not.
 

My first large format shot.

Calumet 4x5 with 210mm F6.8 Caltar II-E
E100VS ( 6x12 film back )

lf002.jpg

Billy :)

Good work Master Billy.
Your previous 645 stuffs reignited my passion in film, and now I get far more excitement with slides than digital again :bsmilie: I look forward to ur LF stuffs. I dun't think I have the hands to get into LF for now. Caught up with too many things around me recently. But who knows.
Anyhow I realized the only way to develop LF slides ( apart from doing it oneself ) is to mail them to overseas centres to do up and mail back. Who knows. One day I might turn 45 like u did.

Best of health

Ryan
 

Hi all, I have been following this thread with interest and wonder which 4x5 camera is good to start with?
 

Hi all, I have been following this thread with interest and wonder which 4x5 camera is good to start with?

they're all good. but you probably want to start off with a field camera. Most of us are using view cameras.

some of the guys would know some to recommend.
 

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Hey keechoon,

You can look at the Graflex Graphics, Crown or Speed for an entry level 4x5, limited movements, but easy to carry around. Priced around $500.

Next level up would be the wooden field cameras like the Tachihara / Wista, more movements, priced higher of course.

Another option would be Shen Hao cameras, or a Toyo Field. Around $1k?
 

Thanks for the info! For the graphics series of cameras, they are considered field n those by toyo etc are view right?
 

Toyo has field cameras too.

Graflex also has view cameras.

Field cameras can be easily folded into a box shape, view cameras are usually mounted on a monorail and is harder to carry around though the movements are more.
 

welcome to the poisonous world...

Good work Master Billy.
Your previous 645 stuffs reignited my passion in film, and now I get far more excitement with slides than digital again :bsmilie: I look forward to ur LF stuffs. I dun't think I have the hands to get into LF for now. Caught up with too many things around me recently. But who knows.
Anyhow I realized the only way to develop LF slides ( apart from doing it oneself ) is to mail them to overseas centres to do up and mail back. Who knows. One day I might turn 45 like u did.

Best of health

Ryan
 

hi keechoon,

I just started 4x5 not long too. I wouldn't say that you must start off with a field camera.

There are plus and minus points to a field camera, if you are doing architecture stuffs ( requires a lot of movements ) or macros... then having a field camera might not be a good idea because the movements are limited ( comparing to mono-rail ). But, a field camera is more portable comparing to a mono-rail . so.... have to see what sort of pictures you are interested in ... give a take .... and then arrive at something that you are comfortable with.

good luck
Billy

Hi all, I have been following this thread with interest and wonder which 4x5 camera is good to start with?
 

I cannot remember who (I think it is Master Billy or ShadowLeong if not wrong), but someone here asked me about shooting with paper quite sometime ago and I replied something like:

"If you shoot directly with paper, there will be an issue of a negative image formed on the paper, you will have to do a B&W reversal processing (Mostlikely have to use something like potassium alum to harden the emulsion as the paper emulsion will be quite bad after the acid removal bath) or use a direct positive paper instead."

I was surfing the net and happened to came across this. Maybe can visit to see the result of those who shoot directly with paper. Developed papers are around 1.8D so those scanned result are quite accurate reproduction of the tone and D you get with paper.

OP just gotten in few packs of 25sheets shanghai 100 4*5, if you are getting, please don't clear shelf as there might be others who want it. Also, please help remind shop about my order for E100VS, waited for sometime since I place order liao.:sweat:
 

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