Large Format

[kex]

just called them up,they say toyo CF is not being sold in asian market..
But the lady offer me the Toyo C instead,she say now only ard qian duo kuai (thousand+)

 

[student]

I am thinking more seriously of a field camera...
but there seem to be more view cameras available.. and often at a nicer price.
opinions?

Just a clarification. I hope I am not showing my ignorance of the subject.

A field camera IS a view camera. It is a view camera designed to be used in a field, hence most field cameras are a folding design for ease of transport. To my knowledge, only Ebony have a field design that is non-folding. But this model have less extension than the folding ones,although the nonfolding design allows it to have a higher rise.

Another view camera design is that using rails, mono or otherwise. Classic examples are Sinars and Arca-swiss. This design is more modular than the field cameras which compromise on features for the sake of portability. Sinars and AS also have more features such as aymmetrical swings which are mostly absent in field cameras (but the some of the Ebonys also have this feature) For the purpose of most field photographers, good field cameras, such as the Linhofs technika (metal), Wisner, Tachihara, ShenHao, etc, are actually more than sufficient.

 

[Tachi]

You are quite right. For landscape, the most frequent movement that I've used are the front rise/fall, front tilt and both tilt. As for front/back shift, I don't really need it.

As a general guide, field camera is foldable & has drop bed design and monorail is non-foldable. You will appreciate the usefulness (portability) of a field camera when you are trekking in the field.

 

[student]

my thots on buying a 4x5 camera for travelling.

1 I would not bother with a monorail. Too bulky. Imagine carrying a suitcase when you climb up Huangshan!

2 I would chose a folding field camera. Which one I chose depends on

a. Do I want lots of features that I MIGHT want to use for a studio shots? Or am I focussed that it is for field use only? A major mistake in buying is to try to be "Kia-su" and "pow-ka-liao". Don't do that. Be focussed in your objectives. And even for "field" use, what kinds of subjects are you going to photograph? If you are photographying basically landscape, most of the time you will be using lenses from 75/80 mm to 300mm, occasionally 400 mm. So you will want to have a bellows draw of not less than 400mm (if you use a non-tele design for your 400. Note that for largeformat, the concept of tele is very different from 35mm or Medium format), or slightly less if you use a tele design. For most field trips a three lens combination of eg 100/200/300 is sufficient (Broad estimate, it might be 80/180/300, or 110/210/400, depending on the way your eyes see). The features mostly employed for landscape is front tilt and rise.

If your foeld trips are mainly architecture, then you will want to use very short lenses. Chose a camera with the type of bellows, and rise to match. Forget about using lenses like 400 in this case.

THE DECISION ON WHAT SYSTEM YOU CHOSE SHOULD FIRST DEPEND ON THE SUBJECT YOU WATN TO PHOTOGRAPH, AND THEN THE LENSES YOU NEED TO DO THE JOB.

b. The weight: a lot depends on the type of field trips you do, and how far away you have to be away from your transport. On the whole, the lighter the better! Every grams count! A backpack would easily be in the region of 20 kgs! So, chose light, chose small. And that goes for the lenses. And keep the filter sizes standard if possible.

c Your esthetics/likes/dislikes. Some hates metal and adores wood. No wood camera can come close to the precision of the Linhof Technikas. But the top of the range wood camera such as the Ebony comes close, and this brings me to my last point

d How much are you willing to spend? If I like wood, and money not an issue, it is a no brainer! EBONY wins anytime. But a top of the range 4x5 ebony will set you back about 3-4000 us. For for most on a budget, a Shen-hao is actually quite good! THe same thing goes for a metal camera. Linhof reigns supreme! But it is even more expensive (new) than the Ebony! So you may have to look elsewhere.

For me, I like wood. It is good enough for MY purpose.

 

[ratboy]

Hmmm...

for the locals ( Singapore )
There's a nice Canham 4x5 Metal on sale at this thread...

http://forums.clubsnap.org/showthread.php?t=75556

oops, that's mine : )
but still for sales
you can feel/try it before buying ...
a very nice cam

Lam

 

[Keltzar]

hi student

does wood suffer any problems in this climate?
I'm leaning towards getting the Toyo 45CF due to its weight ... or else going back to picking up an old Crown Graphic (ok, I think I'm regretting selling my last one a year ago).

I plan to shoot mostly archi and landscape shots, and on occasion, product-type shots in the studio.

p/s does anyone else find the new clubsnap posting system difficult to use, esp in the buy/sell area ?? I've reposted my buy/sell post 5-6 times and each times it tells me " you have to fill in the optional areas" ... then why they heck is it optional to begin with ?!

 

[student]

hi student

does wood suffer any problems in this climate?
I'm leaning towards getting the Toyo 45CF due to its weight ... or else going back to picking up an old Crown Graphic (ok, I think I'm regretting selling my last one a year ago).

I plan to shoot mostly archi and landscape shots, and on occasion, product-type shots in the studio.

My experience is relatively limited, having used one for about two years. My first LF camera is an aged Deardorff. I have no problems with it (YET!). In theory it would be better to have non-wooden cameras for the tropics. But if you have one made with hard wood then I think you are unlikely to get into trouble.

The statement you made in the second paragraph illustrate the problems I mentioned earlier, viz trying to make the camera do too many things. I have not done any product shots, so I am talking theory here. But I have pictures of things in my office, calla lilies, roses etc, so I suppose that is very similar. The problem is that with photographying objects like these you are getting to a 1:1 or 1:2 "magnification". So you need about a 2x bellows draw. If you use a short lens, you may get distortion. If you use a longer lens such as 180mm, then you will need about 360mm bellows draw. But shooting architecture very often requires short lenses. So you need a camera that can take short lenses yet with long enough bellows. I think, for such a thing it would be better to have a sinar f or one of the arca-swiss. Some field cameras can fit your bill, such as Wisner Expedition (I think) and the Ebony 45u SV.

 

[mattlock]

if anyone is interested I may be selling off my large format kit, while I'm in Singapore because i'm not too keen on lugging it back to the US and I havne't used it much.....it's a Sinar F with an 18mm extension piece, with a Super Angulon f8 90mm copal 0 and a 210mm Caltar II-N (Rodenstock design) f5.6 lens, 2 Grafmatic 6 shots holder, a Slik 700 tripod, and some film holders
i've also got a few fresh boxes of film which I opened up to use a few sheets of each, including Astia 100F, Kodak EPN7058,Tmax 100,Fuji NPS160

 

[jamesong]

if anyone is interested I may be selling off my large format kit, while I'm in Singapore because i'm not too keen on lugging it back to the US and I havne't used it much.....it's a Sinar F with an 18mm extension piece, with a Super Angulon f8 90mm copal 0 and a 210mm Caltar II-N (Rodenstock design) f5.6 lens, 2 Grafmatic 6 shots holder, a Slik 700 tripod, and some film holders
i've also got a few fresh boxes of film which I opened up to use a few sheets of each, including Astia 100F, Kodak EPP6085,Tmax 100,Kodak VC160

Hi Mattlock,
You can PM gadrian , he may be interested in the Super Angulan f8 90mm.

Can you please tell me more about the Astia 100F and the Kodak VC 160 sheet film? At present I am shooting with Provia 100F & Tmax100 and Kodak 100VS 120 film.

Thanks,
James Song
http://www.jsphilatelics.com
http://www.singapore2view.com

 

[mattlock]

hi sorry I was abit drunk at 5 am when I typed out my above reply.... I editted it already, I have Kodak EPN 7058 (great colour fidelity, no longer in production), Fuji NPS 160, Tmax 100, Fuji Astia 100F and a box of 20 sheets of Forte 200 BW film (strangely enough I like the tones that film gives, very...thick)
If any of you guys want some I'll probably have leftovers before I leave the country at the end of the month, so I'll sell it off then!

from personal experience:
i've used Kodak 100G (the new one out in the US) and it pretty cold in it's rendition of colours, with a slight bias towards yellow also (in longer exposures)

Astia 100F is amazing! I've never seen such beautiful skin tones.
Rendition of colours tends to be warm, and a slight bias to green on longer exposures

I really dislike Provia, the colours seem almost thin and tend to be abit yellowish

Ok anyway if any of you guys need film next time you can contact me, I'll be back in Singapore in December I believe. it was near impossible to find large format film this time around in singapore!haha.

 

[Tachi]

I would like to reserve your stock of Astia 100F. Do call me when you are done, I've PM you my contact.


Thanks
KW..

 

[singscott]

One thing good about large format is most of the accesseries are exchangable, From film mags to lenes. So the important thing here is first to get good lenes. They also don't cost a bomb compare to some 35 optics. They might be in four figure price but still cheaper then ED, APO or L varies. Depending what you want to shoot, you most likely need two to three lenes the most. I have a mono rail hoseman but the camera I use the most is my Cheapo speed graphic field camera. I am still looking for a good condition super graphic which is about US$480. So it is ok to go cheap on the camera first then upgrade once you learn the rope. But it is the lenes you have to pay more attention to. Then again I don't even know your budget? Any way I trying to get together a group of large format guys and gals together for shoots or coffee n chit chat. May be you could find out the LF camera you might want. PM me if you are interested. A rough guide LF system could start from $2k.

 

[Keltzar]

That sounds interesting. Keep us all updated.

What would anyone recommend as lenses to have if I want one wide-angle, and one normal lens?

 

[melhjt]

That sounds good...the meet-up.

Count me in.

 

[singscott]

Wide angle will be Schneider Super Angulon 90 F5.6 XL or the cheaper non XL for 4x5. Normal lenes from the major brand like Rodenstock or Schneider are good 4x5 should around 150mm. But for still life guys usual is the 240mm, my flavour one is Schneider G Claron 240 F8. Those guys whose kin in meeting up. PM me please so I can respose fast once I have something planed

 

[khee]

Hi everyone,

I'm just new to 4x5 - in fact just bought cam with some lenses and still have not shot any film. Since this thread attracted much discussion, I've some questions which I hope you gentlemen can help:

1. Is there large format community in Singapore - chat group, clubs, kopitiam group etc in which I can meet some people and exchange views and hopefully can have some outings as well.

2. Where do you guys get your films? What kind of films are available? And where to develop them? I only checked with Cathay and they have only EPP and the tungsten equivalent.

Thanks to one and all,
khee

 

[singscott]

Trying to create one!!! Interested party PM me

 

[Keltzar]

I'm looking for a lens for my sinar.

What do folks think is more useful, a 135mm or 150mm lens as standard?

And, is anyone familiar with the schneider symar 135/4.7 ?

 

[joelarsson]

150mm would be the norm... a truly versatile lens! I'm currently using Sinaron 150 on my Sinar p2 and Toyo CF. As for the Toyo CF field camera, it has a plastic feel material and its definitely not tough... but well taken care, it should be go the miles for you.

Wide angle lens... Schneider Super Angular XL 90mm/5.6!! Bright and a large image circle... highly recommended tho pricey but again,.. good camera should hv good lens! :bsmilie:

 

[hongsien]

I'm looking for a lens for my sinar.

What do folks think is more useful, a 135mm or 150mm lens as standard?

And, is anyone familiar with the schneider symar 135/4.7 ?

Go for the 150mm lenses, they typically have bigger image circles, which is finally what you really need in most cases (more movements). Sharpness in LF is not as important, you get your apparent sharpness anyway due to the lower enlargement factor, and that you hit the limits of the film resolution.

Try to get the older Kodak Ektar lenses, these are real gems and not to expensive on eBay. Especially the wide ektars are good and useful.

Hong Sien