Is it worth it?

[Galdor]

ehh, I think any decent dslr camera can do that, if you are talking about photos shrinking down to that size. Unless you post two identical photos at 100% crop, it is very difficult to determine whether CZ16-80mm lens is superior to Sony DT 16-105mm. Furthermore, CZ16-80 is ideal for full frame which means you will get certain portions of ur photos cut off when using it with A200.

Therefore, altho CZ16-80mm may be a superior lens to 16-105mm, I feel you shld get a longer zoom range to train urself in the basics first before settling into such a high performance lens.

Yup, my 2 cents worth.

:nono: True that any decent cam can take that kind of pictures but it greatly depends on the lens used as well. CZ are well known for the sharpness. Anyway, both lenses are not FF lenses, so the pictures taken with these lenses on a FF cam will be 'cut off'. 16-80mm has a max aperture of 3.5-4.5 while the 16-105 has a max aperture of 3.5-5.6 but gives you a longer range. So it really voices down to what is suitable for your use.

 

[Giorgio]

Any lens will be fine and sharp enough for your human eyes unless you decide to crop for whatever reason.
Our human eye cannot significantly acertain better sharpness between more than 1 uncrop pictures beyond a certain lp/mm unless you relate them onto the numeric MTF chart.

 

[TME]

Any lens will be fine and sharp enough for your human eyes unless you decide to crop for whatever reason.
Our human eye cannot significantly acertain better sharpness between more than 1 uncrop pictures beyond a certain lp/mm unless you relate them onto the numeric MTF chart.

The MTF charts are useful only to a certain extent... and for most of us the proof is in the pudding... how well the lens prints...

So you will need the extra resolving power of a better lens if you print very large... you need to print at least A3 and larger before you can tell any difference... since most of us don't print more than A4, then I guess you can't really tell the difference between the 16-105 and the 16-80 in a print...

 

[ardnirun]

weee..
got maself a A200..
thanks brother srt303b

 

[tank0085]

Congrats and Happy Shooting!!

 

[Galdor]

weee..
got maself a A200..
thanks brother srt303b

Congrats...hope to see you in our outings soon.

 

[ardnirun]

how do you adjust the exposure in manual mode anyways? I can change it in every other mode except manual...

 

[Rashkae]

how do you adjust the exposure in manual mode anyways? I can change it in every other mode except manual...

In other modes, exposure is compensated by modifying shutter speed, aperture, etc automatically. But when you're in full manual, you have control over those settings. So if your exposure is off (remember to use the camera's exposure meter) then you need to adjust aperture or shutter speed yourself. That's why it's manual mode.

 

[TME]

how do you adjust the exposure in manual mode anyways? I can change it in every other mode except manual...

There is an exposure meter on the LCD screen and in the viewfinder... the scale with lots of little marks with a 0 in the centre and a "+" on the right of the scale and "-" at the other end.

In M mode, if your camera is exposing correctly (i.e. correct shutter and aperture settings), the scale should indicate that the exposure is at 0 EV. There should be a little mark on top of the 0. If you underexpose, then the mark will shift towards the "-" side and if overexposed, the mark shifts to the "+" side.

You can experiment easily. Mount the camera on a tripod or put in a the table (so as to fix the composition). Set the camera in A mode. Note the aperture and shutter settings. Switch to M mode. Put in the shutter and aperture settings as in A mode. You will find that the exposure on the metering scale is at 0. Now starting opening up the aperture, you will find the metering scale telling you the picture is overexposed. Take a shot at 0 EV and then again when you overexposed. You will find that the picture should looked much brighter on the LCD screen.

M mode is usually used when the background (or ambient) light does not vary too much. Or you want to control what the camera exposes for. E.g. you have a scene with some very bright spots which keeps fooling the camera's meter in A or S mode. So you can change to M mode and tell the camera to expose for the scene and ignore the very bright spots.

Hope this helps... you should buy Gary Friedman's book on the Alpha system. It's an electronic book and well worth them money cos it deals with basic techniques, theory as well as being very specific to the Alpha system. It's really worth it... costs about S$30. Cheaper than most photography books. Plus you get regular updates to the book.

I bought the Dynax 7D book some years back when it first came out. And it's been a very useful primer even though I had been shooting for 2 years already then...

Try here:
http://www.friedmanarchives.com/alpha200/index.htm

 

[ardnirun]

In other modes, exposure is compensated by modifying shutter speed, aperture, etc automatically. But when you're in full manual, you have control over those settings. So if your exposure is off (remember to use the camera's exposure meter) then you need to adjust aperture or shutter speed yourself. That's why it's manual mode.

ahh....

There is an exposure meter on the LCD screen and in the viewfinder... the scale with lots of little marks with a 0 in the centre and a "+" on the right of the scale and "-" at the other end.

In M mode, if your camera is exposing correctly (i.e. correct shutter and aperture settings), the scale should indicate that the exposure is at 0 EV. There should be a little mark on top of the 0. If you underexpose, then the mark will shift towards the "-" side and if overexposed, the mark shifts to the "+" side.

You can experiment easily. Mount the camera on a tripod or put in a the table (so as to fix the composition). Set the camera in A mode. Note the aperture and shutter settings. Switch to M mode. Put in the shutter and aperture settings as in A mode. You will find that the exposure on the metering scale is at 0. Now starting opening up the aperture, you will find the metering scale telling you the picture is overexposed. Take a shot at 0 EV and then again when you overexposed. You will find that the picture should looked much brighter on the LCD screen.

M mode is usually used when the background (or ambient) light does not vary too much. Or you want to control what the camera exposes for. E.g. you have a scene with some very bright spots which keeps fooling the camera's meter in A or S mode. So you can change to M mode and tell the camera to expose for the scene and ignore the very bright spots.

Hope this helps... you should buy Gary Friedman's book on the Alpha system. It's an electronic book and well worth them money cos it deals with basic techniques, theory as well as being very specific to the Alpha system. It's really worth it... costs about S$30. Cheaper than most photography books. Plus you get regular updates to the book.

I bought the Dynax 7D book some years back when it first came out. And it's been a very useful primer even though I had been shooting for 2 years already then...

Try here:
http://www.friedmanarchives.com/alpha200/index.htm

thanks...understooded now..

 

[maximize]

welcome to the a200... hope u are snapping happily now... me also using a200.... so far ok lah... do read the manual... sony has good manual...