Images from Sigma 35mm f1.4 dg

[patrick76]

Just looking at the photo and the exif data, I have to say that there is most likely nothing wrong with the camera or the lens. It's probably operator error

You are shooting at quite a low shutter speed of 1/30 sec, and at F1.4 there is no room for any error. (This setting suggests poor light conditions) Also quite a fair bit of noise at 400 ISO. If noise reduction is enabled in cam, then the image will become softer. Another reason is your focus point is on a low contrast area, which will throw the camera AF out.

Suggest you test again in good outdoor light conditions. Set shutter speed to at least 1/125 sec and shoot an object with good contrast. Good Luck !

Thanks for the advice!

I will try to shoot at higher shutter speed.

 

[Happyman2801]

What aperture is this shot with? Any sharpening done or straight out from camera?

 

[patrick76]

What aperture is this shot with? Any sharpening done or straight out from camera?

F1.4 and straight out from camera.

 

[dniwkh]

F1.4 and straight out from camera.

Is it cropped? If it is not cropped, I think you are way too close to your subject. So close and shooting at F1.4, it is very hard to get the focus spot on. The DOF is so thin that any movement towards or away from your subject is going to affect your AF....

Try aiming at something further....

 

[patrick76]

Is it cropped? If it is not cropped, I think you are way too close to your subject. So close and shooting at F1.4, it is very hard to get the focus spot on. The DOF is so thin that any movement towards or away from your subject is going to affect your AF....

Try aiming at something further....

Yes, I have cropped the picture.

 

[ricleo]

Try shooting something with ,ore detail. The elephant is just a pice of plastic with a smooth surface. Not much detail to test sharpness

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I have bought this len last month and has been using it on my Canon 100D. Overall, I felt the my image is not as sharp as I what I see in the forum. For the above picture, the focus is on the elephant trunk but I felt the image is blur.

I am a newbie here. Has it got to do with my camera or my len is faulty?

 

[bigturbo]

Just gotten this beast lens last week, really superb! Dialled in +1 mfa on my 6D and it's super sharp at 1.4

 

[patrick76]

What do you mean by +1 mfa?

I have tried this lens on my friend's 6D. We discovered that shutter speed needs to be 1/160 and higher. Maybe because this lens does not have IS and we need a higher shutter speed to ensure that any hand shake will not be transmitted to the picture. The image quality is quite inconsistent if we reduced it to 1/125.

Thanks to Zoom3 for pointing me to the right direction.

Can you show us some pictures as well as your settings?

 

[Blur Shadow]

What do you mean by +1 mfa?

Manual focus adjustment??! Just guessing...!

 

[Happyman2801]

F1.4 and straight out from camera.

Mine if I ask what camera did you use? Cos its much sharper than my copy out from D700. Can it be sharper because your photo is viewed online?

 

[bigturbo]

What do you mean by +1 mfa?

I have tried this lens on my friend's 6D. We discovered that shutter speed needs to be 1/160 and higher. Maybe because this lens does not have IS and we need a higher shutter speed to ensure that any hand shake will not be transmitted to the picture. The image quality is quite inconsistent if we reduced it to 1/125.

Thanks to Zoom3 for pointing me to the right direction.

Can you show us some pictures as well as your settings?

Mfa= micro focus adjustment. 1/160?? 35mm without IS you can shoot at 1/30 for still subject with proper handholding technique..

 

[patrick76]

Mine if I ask what camera did you use? Cos its much sharper than my copy out from D700. Can it be sharper because your photo is viewed online?

Canon 100D. It is almost the same if I view my original file on my computer.

"Cos its much sharper than my copy out from D700"......you mean my copy is still sharper than your copy from D700?

 

[patrick76]

Mfa= micro focus adjustment. 1/160?? 35mm without IS you can shoot at 1/30 for still subject with proper handholding technique..

I am not sure...just guessing but for the same scene when I use this lens on 6D, the image is definitely sharper.

 

[bigturbo]

I am not sure...just guessing but for the same scene when I use this lens on 6D, the image is definitely sharper.

I'm using this on 6d as well. But you do know that a lens itself could be sharp on one body but might need mfa on another body yea.

 

[mabmy]

So are all of you shooting with center AF point only or any AF point used will still render a sharp image?

 

[patrick76]

I have been shooting with centre AF point but I am reading an article and I quote as below...

"For portraits, the eye is the best focus point—both because this is a standard and because it has good contrast. Although the central autofocus sensor is usually most sensitive, the most accurate focusing is achieved using the off-center focus points for off-center subjects. If one were to instead use the central AF point to achieve a focus lock (prior to recomposing for an off-center subject), the focus distance will always be behind the actual subject distance—and this error increases for closer subjects. Accurate focus is especially important for portraits because these typically have a shallow depth of field."

Anyone can explains on the above?

 

[patrick76]

I'm using this on 6d as well. But you do know that a lens itself could be sharp on one body but might need mfa on another body yea.

I dun think I have that adjustment on my 100D. In such case, should I send my lens to Sigma for calibration?

 

[kel77]

I dun think I have that adjustment on my 100D. In such case, should I send my lens to Sigma for calibration?

Get the Sigma USB dock and you can calibrate as and when you like

 

[Luminare]

Does Anyone know if the latest batch still have the Fwd/Backward focusing issues on the D800/D4?

 

[mabmy]

I have been shooting with centre AF point but I am reading an article and I quote as below...

"For portraits, the eye is the best focus point—both because this is a standard and because it has good contrast. Although the central autofocus sensor is usually most sensitive, the most accurate focusing is achieved using the off-center focus points for off-center subjects. If one were to instead use the central AF point to achieve a focus lock (prior to recomposing for an off-center subject), the focus distance will always be behind the actual subject distance—and this error increases for closer subjects. Accurate focus is especially important for portraits because these typically have a shallow depth of field."

Anyone can explains on the above?

To me this sounds like focus and recompose is a bad idea with this lens.