How about buying a magnifying glass and shoot through it?
This is by far the best suggestion _|_
how to convert a Prime lense to a macro lense?
- Thread starter bauong
- Start date
This is by far the best suggestion _|_
cathay photo recommend this
125 bucks
anyone used this before?
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/407711-REG/Kenko_UNITUBE25DGN_25mm_Uniplus_Tube_DG.html#accessories
stanley2606
Member
cathay photo recommend this
125 bucks
anyone used this before?
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/407711-REG/Kenko_UNITUBE25DGN_25mm_Uniplus_Tube_DG.html#accessories
That's a Kenko 25mm Extension Tube, and it supports autofocus hence the higher price.
If you're willing to fork out such amount, I suggest you get Raynox DCR-150 or DCR-250
http://www.mcgill.com.sg/shop/produ...d=161&osCsid=455ac7b8e11d2231fa5b8ed4b548db54
http://www.mcgill.com.sg/shop/produ...d=148&osCsid=a12e2cdddca1d864a7182030500a533b
I believe that's what you were referring to in your first post where you're asking how to convert your prime lense for macro photography by attaching a "Magnifying" lens. However, note that this method requires you to shoot at around 11cm (DCR-250) or 20cm (DCR-150)from your subject.
Cheers!
Last edited:
agree.... i use this with 50mm + 55mm micro lens but need to have a tripod for stability n get real real close. its also kind of hassle.
the dcr-150 or 250 can also be the next alternative
rdgs
the dcr-150 or 250 can also be the next alternative
rdgs
That's a Kenko 25mm Extension Tube, and it supports autofocus hence the higher price.
If you're willing to fork out such amount, I suggest you get Raynox DCR-150 or DCR-250
http://www.mcgill.com.sg/shop/produ...d=161&osCsid=455ac7b8e11d2231fa5b8ed4b548db54
http://www.mcgill.com.sg/shop/produ...d=148&osCsid=a12e2cdddca1d864a7182030500a533b
I believe that's what you were referring to in your first post where you're asking how to convert your prime lense for macro photography by attaching a "Magnifying" lens. However, note that this method requires you to shoot at around 11cm (DCR-250) or 20cm (DCR-150)from your subject.
Cheers!
cathay photo recommend this
125 bucks
anyone used this before?
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/407711-REG/Kenko_UNITUBE25DGN_25mm_Uniplus_Tube_DG.html#accessories
I'm using that currently as it supports AF though you dont usually AF when you do macro, but its a bonus. Works fine for me
I have 1 for sale at the moment cos I have an extra set. Anyone interested?
How about buying a magnifying glass and shoot through it?
If you can live with the aberrations.
proteonXPR
New Member
well i think what you've heard of is the reversal ring that some of the others have mentioned.
http://www.nikon.com.sg/productitem.php?pid=364-65e6edd1c0
it mounts onto the body on one side, and the other side allows you to screw on a 52mm lens, mostly prime lenses. i have one and I'm using it on my AF-S 35/1.8.way more difficult for me to control my aperture and i don't know the actual numbers. should be fine for you i suppose, but i wouldn't recommend it though it's the cheapest solution.
here are two examples shot by myself.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/jiangbabe/3950830814/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/jiangbabe/3641717220/
using a G lens, did you hold the aperture open with a finger? its a little incovenient as compared to using an older lens with an aperture ring
proteonXPR
New Member
by using an adapter and reverse mounting your prime lense,
for sure your prime lense will be expose to dust and dirt.
is there any clear filter that i can mount to the prime lense to protect the front?
yes there is a nikon adaptor that allows you to mount it onto the rear of the lens, and screw on a 52mm filter. its called the BR3...
the br2A and Br3 adaptors.. go for unreasonable prices these days.. so you might want to look for third party ones that work the same and cost much less
proteonXPR
New Member
this is particularly good if you want to use it on a G lens, cuz there is electronic contact and a lever that holds a G lens's aperture open... if you use a manual tube on a G lens, the aperture will snap down to f22 without any control... thus manual tubes would be better with lenses with an aperture ring
A third way is to reverse the lens on the camera but you will need a lens which has an aperture ring. The "G" lenses are not suitable.
If you know how to control the lever and using the original BR-2A, you could mount the reversed lens in one of the 3 orientations which gives you good access to the lever with your finger.
.Hack
Senior Member
Actually all does a decent job be it closeup filters, TC, extension tube etc.
TS must try out to see which he prefers.
have tried all the above methods so far and heres what i feel:
reversemounting. quite mah fan, but gives you the most magnification. about 2-3X life size. then there is reverse mounting onto another lens. get a long lens, about 100mm, and then reverse mount a 50mm or 28mm infront of the lens. you get some vignetting but u can get even higher magnifications and image quality remains very good.
close up filters:
i ve never tried raynox, but in my experience, you will get very soft corners with colour bleeding and lousy bokeh. that was with a 50 1.8D and hoya +4 i believe. also loose contrast. its the cheapest and simplest way to do it. but u get what u pay for.
extension tubes:
image quality for most lenses will be good. never tried the 50 1.4, but some larger aperture lenses will have weird, smudgy distortions to the edges of the frame (eg, 50 1.2). generally not an issue, but sometimes it gets in the way. i find this is one of the best way. my extension tube is a $20 no brand 2X teleconverter. i just removed all the glass on the inside so v cheap.
regards,
benjamin
reversemounting. quite mah fan, but gives you the most magnification. about 2-3X life size. then there is reverse mounting onto another lens. get a long lens, about 100mm, and then reverse mount a 50mm or 28mm infront of the lens. you get some vignetting but u can get even higher magnifications and image quality remains very good.
close up filters:
i ve never tried raynox, but in my experience, you will get very soft corners with colour bleeding and lousy bokeh. that was with a 50 1.8D and hoya +4 i believe. also loose contrast. its the cheapest and simplest way to do it. but u get what u pay for.
extension tubes:
image quality for most lenses will be good. never tried the 50 1.4, but some larger aperture lenses will have weird, smudgy distortions to the edges of the frame (eg, 50 1.2). generally not an issue, but sometimes it gets in the way. i find this is one of the best way. my extension tube is a $20 no brand 2X teleconverter. i just removed all the glass on the inside so v cheap.
regards,
benjamin
therefore: in conclusion
there are 3 methods widely use
1) reverse mounting via adapter
equipment needed: reverse mounting adapter
pro: adapter is cheapest alternative
con: lense is exposed to d)ust
2) close up filter, eg Raynox DCR250
equipment: macro conversion lense
pro: attached easily to existing lens
con: more expensive than reverse mounting adapter and AF will not work
3) extension tubes
equipment: extension tubes
pro: attached easily to existing lens
con: most expensive among all three option
there are 3 methods widely use
1) reverse mounting via adapter
equipment needed: reverse mounting adapter
pro: adapter is cheapest alternative
con: lense is exposed to d)ust
2) close up filter, eg Raynox DCR250
equipment: macro conversion lense
pro: attached easily to existing lens
con: more expensive than reverse mounting adapter and AF will not work
3) extension tubes
equipment: extension tubes
pro: attached easily to existing lens
con: most expensive among all three option
.Hack
Senior Member
3) extension tubes
equipment: extension tubes
pro: attached easily to existing lens
con: most expensive among all three option
Not necessary most expensive.
If your lens has a aperture ring and you can makedo with MF(not an issue for macrography), you can get those extension tubes without CPU coupling.
Those are much cheaper than the ones that allow you to AF.
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