My expectation will be 3 days
how much to clean oly lens?
- Thread starter wind30
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My expectation will be 3 days
Most of the grumblers here, including me, have had our cases dragged on for months.
So do you think we have been unreasonable with our expected turnaround times?
When I read these posts I am more and more worried about my ED50 which is gone for repair about a week ago. I hope I will not get it back with the "extras" described here. It is not repaired in SG, but in Portugal or Germany or somewhere else in Europe. Oly Sweden could not say exactly.
microcosm
Senior Member
Bring a pocket flash light to check the lens when you collect it. If they screw it up, you can either ask them to do it again or demand for a new lens. Don't worry too much. They have to give you a good, working and clean lens since it is under warranty.
They will automatically be more aware when enough of the public is aware too.
I hope they will also offer you a loan unit while they play around with your faulty unit.
frankly we should not get too carried away lah.
Seriously, some of the ISO1600 banding issues are overblown. I personally feel it is UNREASONABLE to expect zero banding at ISO1600 shadow areas.
If my new E330 does arrive, I just hope it is ok at ISO800. In fact when I was using E1, I limited my ISO to 400 99% of the time with the ocassional ISO800 and NEVER iso1600.
Seriously, some of the ISO1600 banding issues are overblown. I personally feel it is UNREASONABLE to expect zero banding at ISO1600 shadow areas.
If my new E330 does arrive, I just hope it is ok at ISO800. In fact when I was using E1, I limited my ISO to 400 99% of the time with the ocassional ISO800 and NEVER iso1600.
Then I guess it's a matter of personal preference then. For me, noticeable lines anywhere distract and confuse the viewer as to what the heck are they doing there when they are not supposed to. Lines and repetitive patterns, are afterall, key to picture composition.
Let's see if the cheaper points and shoots that can go up to ISO1600 and beyond nowadays exhibit banding. If they don't and our x2, x3 more expensive DSLRs do, what does that say?
If Olympus cameras actually had better ISO, would you be using up till ISO1600 now instead of being limited at ISO400 or below most times, and ISO800 for the desperate times?
I guess if enough of the consumer base says it's OK with the bands, I guess it'll be a 'standard feature' left in for us from now on.
I noticed some diagnonal banding when processing some ORF raw images from a friend's E-330 recently (I was the one who recommended Oly to him
) You don't even have to push beyond ISO 400 to see it, it becomes very obvious in the shadow regions when exposure is boosted +1.0 eV or so. I never had this problem with my E-500. Didn't have the heart to tell him after reading all the Oly SG service centre horror stories here. :embrass:
of course if the camera can do good ISO1600 I will be using it.
I just got my E330. And I tested the ISO1600/ISO800. The ISO800 seems pretty good, better than the E1 I used to own. And I do see banding at ISO1600 +1eV at the SHADOW areas. But I won't be complaining about it because of all the DLSRs I have used none of them produced acceptable ISO1600 at the shadow areas. I did not find the ISO1600 useable on my s3pro (which is supposedly very low noise according to reviews) so why should I have a higher expectation of the E330.
I had a fuji F11 P&S famed for its ISO1600. Trust me, some of the units have banding too. And much more obvious than what I am seeing on the my E330.
I too look forward to the day where ISO3200 (ISO1600 +1eV is ISO3200) is useable (like the canon 5D perhaps) but until that day comes, I will be happy with my ISO800.
here are the pictures at ISO1600 f5.6 1/6 shutter.
Level adjusted to boost shadow areas
After neatimage.
I just got my E330. And I tested the ISO1600/ISO800. The ISO800 seems pretty good, better than the E1 I used to own. And I do see banding at ISO1600 +1eV at the SHADOW areas. But I won't be complaining about it because of all the DLSRs I have used none of them produced acceptable ISO1600 at the shadow areas. I did not find the ISO1600 useable on my s3pro (which is supposedly very low noise according to reviews) so why should I have a higher expectation of the E330.
I had a fuji F11 P&S famed for its ISO1600. Trust me, some of the units have banding too. And much more obvious than what I am seeing on the my E330.
I too look forward to the day where ISO3200 (ISO1600 +1eV is ISO3200) is useable (like the canon 5D perhaps) but until that day comes, I will be happy with my ISO800.
here are the pictures at ISO1600 f5.6 1/6 shutter.
Level adjusted to boost shadow areas
After neatimage.
If that is ISO1600 than I don't think there is anything to worry about in my opinion. For many years I regarded ISO400 film as an exception when I really really needed it and 99.99% of the time I used ISO64, 100 and 200. I wasn't even dreaming about ISO1600 due to the grain. I guess I learned to live with that and even today I mostly use ISO100 and 200, not even using Auto ISO with flash.
Of course, that was not a big issue when I had f1.8 lens and the worst one was a large tele lens with f3.5. Now f3.5 is the best one if I am not counting the 50mm f2 which is too expensive for many people. I think the biggest problem is the lens quality which is worst today than in the film era. Yes, you can get bright lenses with large aperture but these are too expensive. I think it is a bad choise dSLR manufacturers are making when they decide to make cheap and dark zooms. I don't understand why it has become like this. You could buy better zooms for film cameras for a reasonable price before, so what happend?
Of course, that was not a big issue when I had f1.8 lens and the worst one was a large tele lens with f3.5. Now f3.5 is the best one if I am not counting the 50mm f2 which is too expensive for many people. I think the biggest problem is the lens quality which is worst today than in the film era. Yes, you can get bright lenses with large aperture but these are too expensive. I think it is a bad choise dSLR manufacturers are making when they decide to make cheap and dark zooms. I don't understand why it has become like this. You could buy better zooms for film cameras for a reasonable price before, so what happend?
Got back the 50-200mm today after 1 month 2 days and I must say I am happy with the repaired unit--No asteroids, no unwanted DNA. Glass looked clean as new :thumbsup:
Had a brief chat with 'E.C.' the repair svc manager and from what was said, it appears DSLR repair service will only get better from now on. Presumably that means improvements in service techs' attitude and proficiency. Lets see how it goes and it looks like I'll be hanging on to my E-system gear.
Some BEFORE (E-500) and AFTER (E-1) picts. No more ghosting, no more CA:
Had a brief chat with 'E.C.' the repair svc manager and from what was said, it appears DSLR repair service will only get better from now on. Presumably that means improvements in service techs' attitude and proficiency. Lets see how it goes and it looks like I'll be hanging on to my E-system gear.
Some BEFORE (E-500) and AFTER (E-1) picts. No more ghosting, no more CA:
Good to hear you got back your 50-200mm in usable shape, btfiend!
The improvement is most pronounced in the shots of the white fence, with the details of the fence contours more visible and the ghosting gone. The tower roof shot improvement is less apparent, probably because of the low resolution of the E1.
The improvement is most pronounced in the shots of the white fence, with the details of the fence contours more visible and the ghosting gone. The tower roof shot improvement is less apparent, probably because of the low resolution of the E1.
hammer_400
Senior Member
check out this video
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X7_wL0ZZi6k
on how camera lenses are made :bigeyes:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X7_wL0ZZi6k
on how camera lenses are made :bigeyes:
Blu-By-U
Senior Member
Excuse me, wind30 is that a 100% crop? the noise executed by your new E-330 is 
but no banding is seen. One of the lucky few...or have they managed to iron out the problem??
Have a look here. taken with ISO1600
I took a few shots at the same place but only this is without banding. Noise is minimal. You can click on the image for a bigger size.
Just added another picture. Please click on the thumbnail for a bigger image. You can see the banding on the right bottom corner.
but no banding is seen. One of the lucky few...or have they managed to iron out the problem??Have a look here. taken with ISO1600
I took a few shots at the same place but only this is without banding. Noise is minimal. You can click on the image for a bigger size.
Just added another picture. Please click on the thumbnail for a bigger image. You can see the banding on the right bottom corner.
ya mine is a 100% crop.
One thing about high ISO noise is that the light is very impt. You must shoot in a DIMLY lit room on a tripod at slow shutter speeds than you see lots of noise.
ISO1600 pics taken with a flash or under bright daylight have very little noise. Bottomline is noise is not just dependent on the ISO but also on the shutter speed.
One thing about high ISO noise is that the light is very impt. You must shoot in a DIMLY lit room on a tripod at slow shutter speeds than you see lots of noise.
ISO1600 pics taken with a flash or under bright daylight have very little noise. Bottomline is noise is not just dependent on the ISO but also on the shutter speed.
Excuse me, wind30 is that a 100% crop? the noise executed by your new E-330 is
Have a look here. taken with ISO1600
I took a few shots at the same place but only this is without banding. Noise is minimal. You can click on the image for a bigger size.
Just added another picture. Please click on the thumbnail for a bigger image. You can see the banding on the right bottom corner.
Face it Blu, you're stuck with a bad batch until the Oly M'sia service centre owns up and does the right thing.
My new E-330 body can achieve that sort of IQ at ISO1600 given the same lighting and contrasty features on the subject. But I still get mild bands in shadow areas.
Check out the noise patterns in the window top right of the cat. Quite faint but looks familiar to you?
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