hi. let me introduce myself


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raytoei

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Hi, i find myself participating in these forums, thought it'd be good to say hello to all and introduce myself.

I am a newbie in photography, three months ago I really thought Canon was a printer company that sold cameras :) My first serious camera conincided with F1, a 2nd hand Canon 40d, after that I started to read and learn and have not looked back since. I do mainly film cameras, and almost always B&W. I feel that this is a niche I can learn and slowly pick the skills up.

As is a happy problem with most photography hobbyists, I have too many equiptment. With film cameras going cheap, I find it affordable to buy and collect film cameras. I have 9 camera at home, 2 more in Alex Photo & P&G for general cleaning and another two more are in the mail, a Olympus 35 SP (with a faulty meter) and a Minolta Hi-Matic 9 with a fast 1.7 45mm Rokkor lens. I boughgt the 35 SP for $20 and I won the Hi-Matic 9 for $15.50, all in USD and before shipping and handling. Of course, the SP (and Minolta) could really be a dud but at $20 USD I am taking a calculated bet (do a check on ebay and find out how much are Olympus 35 SP going these days!). As for the Hi-Matic 9, I chose it over the popular Hi-Matic 7 simply because the Hi-Matic 7 has reached cultish status (read: expensive).

Except for the Olympus Trip and Leica C3 (and the Canon 40D), all my gear are manual and they are mechanical too, ie. they do not depend on batteries to work. For metering I use a simply slide rule to match guesstimated EV with Aperture & Shutterspeed. Actually with film getting scarce and machine-wash C41 films sold in singapore at ISO 400, it isn't too hard to figure out the exposures if we just narrow it to ISO 400. Black and Whilte films (XP-2 or BW400CN) are quite forgiving to incorrect exposures. So as a rule of thumb, indoors are usually 1/30s and f/2.8 for bright lights, normal lights makes it 1/30s and f/2 (see my two Dome Cafe shots in the sticky RF thread). But sometimes our eyes deceive us, my Morton's (Mandarin Oriental) pictures came out horribly wrong. I have since put in a Kodak 3200 ISO film on my (hold your breath) Olympus Trip and shot a roll last week. At low light, the Oly Trip reverts to 1/30s which is fine by me, then the only thing I play with is the aperture to control the exposure. This non-standard film will take a week to process at Fujifilm at Peninsula Plaza. This makes my Oly Trip a low-light shooter. I hope with a faster 1.7 lens, my SP or Minolta will be a more versatile night shooter. I know nothing much about flash, it is on my to-learn list, in the mean time I will use fast lens in ambient light.

I shoot about 2 - 3 rolls of film a week, as a "student" (in photography), I am happy if one or 2 shots come out great. I hope that the law of statistics will favor me, ie. shoot enough rolls and I will soon have a good collection of memorable photos.

I will end this long-winded post with one of my favorite picture.

I was testing my IIIF and Hektor 135/4.5 lens. Everybody snubs the Hektor, but at $50 on ebay, it was a no brainer for me. My problem was how to get the framelines on my IIIf, I bought a Helios viewfinder from Alex Photos but it came only with a WIde (35mm) and Narrow (100mm) framelines, in this photo I actually focused on the face in the centre, but I am glad it turned out better from the side.

This is a picture of my girl on a swing. Hope you enjoy!

cheer!

raytoei

dotter.jpg
 

Hi Ray

Let me be the first to welcome you and what a lovely photo of your daughter! The care/love/passion showed through the shot and that perhaps, is, most important. Hektor, smektor, its all just names and we are here to share our joy so just post away. I for one, enjoy looking at all sorts of shots, every picture tells a story, so once again, welcome!
 

Hi, i find myself participating in these forums, thought it'd be good to say hello to all and introduce myself.

I am a newbie in photography, three months ago I really thought Canon was a printer company that sold cameras :) My first serious camera conincided with F1, a 2nd hand Canon 40d, after that I started to read and learn and have not looked back since. I do mainly film cameras, and almost always B&W. I feel that this is a niche I can learn and slowly pick the skills up.

As is a happy problem with most photography hobbyists, I have too many equiptment. With film cameras going cheap, I find it affordable to buy and collect film cameras. I have 9 camera at home, 2 more in Alex Photo & P&G for general cleaning and another two more are in the mail, a Olympus 35 SP (with a faulty meter) and a Minolta Hi-Matic 9 with a fast 1.7 45mm Rokkor lens. I boughgt the 35 SP for $20 and I won the Hi-Matic 9 for $15.50, all in USD and before shipping and handling. Of course, the SP (and Minolta) could really be a dud but at $20 USD I am taking a calculated bet (do a check on ebay and find out how much are Olympus 35 SP going these days!). As for the Hi-Matic 9, I chose it over the popular Hi-Matic 7 simply because the Hi-Matic 7 has reached cultish status (read: expensive).

Except for the Olympus Trip and Leica C3 (and the Canon 40D), all my gear are manual and they are mechanical too, ie. they do not depend on batteries to work. For metering I use a simply slide rule to match guesstimated EV with Aperture & Shutterspeed. Actually with film getting scarce and machine-wash C41 films sold in singapore at ISO 400, it isn't too hard to figure out the exposures if we just narrow it to ISO 400. Black and Whilte films (XP-2 or BW400CN) are quite forgiving to incorrect exposures. So as a rule of thumb, indoors are usually 1/30s and f/2.8 for bright lights, normal lights makes it 1/30s and f/2 (see my two Dome Cafe shots in the sticky RF thread). But sometimes our eyes deceive us, my Morton's (Mandarin Oriental) pictures came out horribly wrong. I have since put in a Kodak 3200 ISO film on my (hold your breath) Olympus Trip and shot a roll last week. At low light, the Oly Trip reverts to 1/30s which is fine by me, then the only thing I play with is the aperture to control the exposure. This non-standard film will take a week to process at Fujifilm at Peninsula Plaza. This makes my Oly Trip a low-light shooter. I hope with a faster 1.7 lens, my SP or Minolta will be a more versatile night shooter. I know nothing much about flash, it is on my to-learn list, in the mean time I will use fast lens in ambient light.

I shoot about 2 - 3 rolls of film a week, as a "student" (in photography), I am happy if one or 2 shots come out great. I hope that the law of statistics will favor me, ie. shoot enough rolls and I will soon have a good collection of memorable photos.

I will end this long-winded post with one of my favorite picture.

I was testing my IIIF and Hektor 135/4.5 lens. Everybody snubs the Hektor, but at $50 on ebay, it was a no brainer for me. My problem was how to get the framelines on my IIIf, I bought a Helios viewfinder from Alex Photos but it came only with a WIde (35mm) and Narrow (100mm) framelines, in this photo I actually focused on the face in the centre, but I am glad it turned out better from the side.

This is a picture of my girl on a swing. Hope you enjoy!

cheer!

raytoei

dotter.jpg

Talking about getting POISON!!! Haah!!! Welcome welcome!
 

Talking about getting POISON!!! Haah!!! Welcome welcome!

Hi ray, friendly word of advice, watch out for zoomp, he is the master poison master... (zoomp just joking...) seriously there are many guys here that really know their stuff and brother zoomp is one of them....
 

Hi ray, friendly word of advice, watch out for zoomp, he is the master poison master... (zoomp just joking...) seriously there are many guys here that really know their stuff and brother zoomp is one of them....

Bro, you're joking man!!! I am nothing compared to Gommy, Hacker, Benny, and all the POISON docs here!
 

Hi Ray,

Welcome. A large majority of those who frequent this RF section are friendly and helpful, so you are in good territory. Looking to see more of your shots. Cheers. :)
 

Last edited:
Welcome here & in RFF.:)
 

Welcome here & in RFF.:)

Better not let this doc welcome you. He's a real doc in a way and poisonous 'fangs' he works on.

Long long time ago, in a clubsnap far near away.
The Empire was ruling the universe and poisonous influences arose.
Resist, did the rebels, against the tide of poison, but to no avail.

Hacker, Benny, Gommy et al are the Empire's reps you should not associate with, lest the poison of "buy! buy! buy!" sting you unawares. :bsmilie:

Their collection of lenses more than Darth Vader's fleet.
 

Bro, you're joking man!!! I am nothing compared to Gommy, Hacker, Benny, and all the POISON docs here!

Can't be very sure man...this man also may have some stuff...luigi cover he has...:bigeyes:
 

Better not let this doc welcome you. He's a real doc in a way and poisonous 'fangs' he works on.

Long long time ago, in a clubsnap far near away.
The Empire was ruling the universe and poisonous influences arose.
Resist, did the rebels, against the tide of poison, but to no avail.

Hacker, Benny, Gommy et al are the Empire's reps you should not associate with, lest the poison of "buy! buy! buy!" sting you unawares. :bsmilie:

Their collection of lenses more than Darth Vader's fleet.

with a collective value of more than many a third world countries GDP :bsmilie:
 

Hi Ray, welcome. 11 cameras :bigeyes: That is a lot of cameras for a "newbie" ;p

Stay in this forum long enough and soon you will probably narrow down your gear to one brand that starts with L and ends with a :bsmilie:
 

Hi Ray, welcome. 11 cameras :bigeyes: That is a lot of cameras for a "newbie" ;p

Stay in this forum long enough and soon you will probably narrow down your gear to one brand that starts with L and ends with a :bsmilie:

You are not quite right! hehehe.....
I started with L but ended with A, C, F, H, J, K, N, P, R, R, S, T, T, V, Z, Z.
No L lens in my bag most of the time.
 

You are not quite right! hehehe.....
I started with L but ended with A, C, F, H, J, K, N, P, R, R, S, T, T, V, Z, Z.
No L lens in my bag most of the time.

Haha. You are starting your poison very early for Ray :bsmilie:
 

Welcome ...from a newbie myself :-)
Very nice photo of your girl...can feel the emotion...

"the best camera is the one with you"
 

raytoei - welcome to the forum. hope to see you more in this rf & compact section.

the pic of your daughter brings would the hektor's old school qualities :thumbsup:
 

I was testing my IIIF and Hektor 135/4.5 lens. Everybody snubs the Hektor, but at $50 on ebay, it was a no brainer for me. My problem was how to get the framelines on my IIIf, I bought a Helios viewfinder from Alex Photos but it came only with a WIde (35mm) and Narrow (100mm) framelines, in this photo I actually focused on the face in the centre, but I am glad it turned out better from the side.

This is a picture of my girl on a swing. Hope you enjoy!

cheer!

raytoei

Hi raytoei, I tried the Hektor 13.5cm with a IIIf. The field of view is pretty similar to that of the rangefinder window (the one you used to focus). I verified it by looking the image formed on the film plane, very similar. However I did not test for parallax. I used that method to compose my shots on the Hektor. Works quite well, you can give it a try. :)
 

Hi, i find myself participating in these forums, thought it'd be good to say hello to all and introduce myself.

I am a newbie in photography, three months ago I really thought Canon was a printer company that sold cameras :) My first serious camera conincided with F1, a 2nd hand Canon 40d, after that I started to read and learn and have not looked back since. I do mainly film cameras, and almost always B&W. I feel that this is a niche I can learn and slowly pick the skills up.

As is a happy problem with most photography hobbyists, I have too many equiptment. With film cameras going cheap, I find it affordable to buy and collect film cameras. I have 9 camera at home, 2 more in Alex Photo & P&G for general cleaning and another two more are in the mail, a Olympus 35 SP (with a faulty meter) and a Minolta Hi-Matic 9 with a fast 1.7 45mm Rokkor lens. I boughgt the 35 SP for $20 and I won the Hi-Matic 9 for $15.50, all in USD and before shipping and handling. Of course, the SP (and Minolta) could really be a dud but at $20 USD I am taking a calculated bet (do a check on ebay and find out how much are Olympus 35 SP going these days!). As for the Hi-Matic 9, I chose it over the popular Hi-Matic 7 simply because the Hi-Matic 7 has reached cultish status (read: expensive).

Except for the Olympus Trip and Leica C3 (and the Canon 40D), all my gear are manual and they are mechanical too, ie. they do not depend on batteries to work. For metering I use a simply slide rule to match guesstimated EV with Aperture & Shutterspeed. Actually with film getting scarce and machine-wash C41 films sold in singapore at ISO 400, it isn't too hard to figure out the exposures if we just narrow it to ISO 400. Black and Whilte films (XP-2 or BW400CN) are quite forgiving to incorrect exposures. So as a rule of thumb, indoors are usually 1/30s and f/2.8 for bright lights, normal lights makes it 1/30s and f/2 (see my two Dome Cafe shots in the sticky RF thread). But sometimes our eyes deceive us, my Morton's (Mandarin Oriental) pictures came out horribly wrong. I have since put in a Kodak 3200 ISO film on my (hold your breath) Olympus Trip and shot a roll last week. At low light, the Oly Trip reverts to 1/30s which is fine by me, then the only thing I play with is the aperture to control the exposure. This non-standard film will take a week to process at Fujifilm at Peninsula Plaza. This makes my Oly Trip a low-light shooter. I hope with a faster 1.7 lens, my SP or Minolta will be a more versatile night shooter. I know nothing much about flash, it is on my to-learn list, in the mean time I will use fast lens in ambient light.

I shoot about 2 - 3 rolls of film a week, as a "student" (in photography), I am happy if one or 2 shots come out great. I hope that the law of statistics will favor me, ie. shoot enough rolls and I will soon have a good collection of memorable photos.

I will end this long-winded post with one of my favorite picture.

I was testing my IIIF and Hektor 135/4.5 lens. Everybody snubs the Hektor, but at $50 on ebay, it was a no brainer for me. My problem was how to get the framelines on my IIIf, I bought a Helios viewfinder from Alex Photos but it came only with a WIde (35mm) and Narrow (100mm) framelines, in this photo I actually focused on the face in the centre, but I am glad it turned out better from the side.

This is a picture of my girl on a swing. Hope you enjoy!

cheer!

raytoei

Warm welcome...wow thats a good & formal introduction...this is a friendly forum for photography information exchange...to discover the JOY of photography...I join last year and found more joy sharing with others...

Better not let this doc welcome you. He's a real doc in a way and poisonous 'fangs' he works on.

Long long time ago, in a clubsnap far near away.
The Empire was ruling the universe and poisonous influences arose.
Resist, did the rebels, against the tide of poison, but to no avail.

Hacker, Benny, Gommy et al are the Empire's reps you should not associate with, lest the poison of "buy! buy! buy!" sting you unawares. :bsmilie:

Their collection of lenses more than Darth Vader's fleet.

LOL...May the force be with u... :bsmilie:
 

Welcome raytoei.

The focusing viewfinder on the iiif is indeed very close to the 135mm frame line. You will get excess image on the top and the bottom which will not be in your image. Best is to get a dedicated viewfinder. There are many cheap 135mm viewfinders around and it's not actually a much sought after focal length. Alternatively, get a zoom finder that goes from 28 to 135/200mm. Then you'll not have to worry about any other lens you get for your barnack Leica.

Cheers,
 

Hi raytoei, Welcome! and no return!;) This is really an interesting forum!
 

Bro, you're joking man!!! I am nothing compared to Gommy, Hacker, Benny, and all the POISON docs here!

Got to agree with you on this!:bsmilie:
 

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