Hasselblad User Group

[neoro]

btw, I just shot a roll of film using my 500ELM w A12 back & borrowed lens, the 120 film like at frame 12 cant fire the shutter. Then when opened up, the film is yet to be fully rewinded ... is it my A12 back or is it inherent problem by A12 back? Kind of wasted my frame 12 & might even spoilt my frame 11 picture

Please advise me thx alot

Try running a few shots without the back and see if the you have any issues. Alternatively would be to get a test roll and run through to check if the entire roll goes through the back without any issues.

Of course a quick DIY B&W development is the best way to confirm. Make sure your film tension is tigher too, when you load the film. Check for the spacing between the frames if they are consistant.

 

[Axeleaf]

This is Jeannie from Austria , our model for October .

 

[kiari04]

Hello

Wanna ask, how much will Mr Tay or Shiro charge to change the light trap seal? Think my A12 got problem, the Provia negatives look weird, no scanner tho'. Think better give a E100VS to see if really got light leak

btw, is there any shop in SG process/develop 220 films? Same price as 120 films? Sorry, noob questions ...

 

[kiari04]

Try running a few shots without the back and see if the you have any issues. Alternatively would be to get a test roll and run through to check if the entire roll goes through the back without any issues.

Of course a quick DIY B&W development is the best way to confirm. Make sure your film tension is tigher too, when you load the film. Check for the spacing between the frames if they are consistant.

Sorry bro, havent got all the equipment for B&W development ... got the film + the canister, but no chemicals, thermometer, beakers, etc :bsmilie:

Think better use a cheap slide - E100VS to try ba :think:

 

[Shawn]

You wanna test light leak, just use a cheap negative film to check, processing fee cheaper also.

 

[kiari04]

You wanna test light leak, just use a cheap negative film to check, processing fee cheaper also.

Errr .. can recommend me cheap negative film? am using expired provia .... think the cheapest in the market liao ... processing not cheap - Fotohub charging S$5 + GST.

E100VS cost only S$4.30 i think ... processing @ photohub cost S$6 + GST. Slightly more ex but can immediately see if got light leak or not ... cos dont need to scan also can see liao :bsmilie: for provia need to scan ba, or am wrong? ....

 

[neoro]

Errr .. can recommend me cheap negative film? am using expired provia .... think the cheapest in the market liao ... processing not cheap - Fotohub charging S$5 + GST.

E100VS cost only S$4.30 i think ... processing @ photohub cost S$6 + GST. Slightly more ex but can immediately see if got light leak or not ... cos dont need to scan also can see liao :bsmilie: for provia need to scan ba, or am wrong? ....

Are those slides? You don't need to use slides. Go to Kinota buy a roll of fuji reala go under the hot sun and shoot towards a shaded area... Light leak can be easily seen that way.

Film development is less than 5 bucks and takes only half and hour by konota

 

[Shawn]

Are those slides? You don't need to use slides. Go to Kinota buy a roll of fuji reala go under the hot sun and shoot towards a shaded area... Light leak can be easily seen that way.

Film development is less than 5 bucks and takes only half and hour by konota

My point exactly! LOL, slides is useful when you wanna test the accuracy of your camera's inbuilt meter. For light leaks, any cheap film will do the trick.

 

[kiari04]

Are those slides? You don't need to use slides. Go to Kinota buy a roll of fuji reala go under the hot sun and shoot towards a shaded area... Light leak can be easily seen that way.

Film development is less than 5 bucks and takes only half and hour by konota

Ya, E100VS is Kodak cheapest slide ... S$4.30 per roll if i dont remember wrongly - fr CP penisula.

Not sure about Reala price, but I just wanna a cheap film to check for light leak ...

okie, will drop by konota to check out the prices & make up my decision on tht spot

 

[fridgemaster]

hi guys
im getting my hassy this weekend
just wondering can any1 help me by tellin me what difference the cf non t* and the t* version is?
is it worth the extra 300-400 dollars for the t* version

i see u guys meet once in a while ?
can i join ? quite new to MF so hoping to learn more from u guys
thanks for ur input

 

[neoro]

hi guys
im getting my hassy this weekend
just wondering can any1 help me by tellin me what difference the cf non t* and the t* version is?
is it worth the extra 300-400 dollars for the t* version

i see u guys meet once in a while ?
can i join ? quite new to MF so hoping to learn more from u guys
thanks for ur input

The T* is just the CZ plannar coating on the lens to my knowledge. Improvement in flair control and all those bunch. I think there is more conversion comparing the C and CF versions as well on the net, just for your information.

 

[worldofdarkness]

Hi, sorry for asking a n00bie question but does anyone know of any macro lenses to fit a Hasselblad 500C/M?

I've tried googling it up but I can't seem to find any answers on it. Hopefully someone here can help me on this.

Cheers!

 

[Shawn]

Yes, there is a 120mm Makro lens for macro uses, but i think you still need extension tubes to get it down to 1:1 lifesize magnification IIRC.

 

[worldofdarkness]

Yes, there is a 120mm Makro lens for macro uses, but i think you still need extension tubes to get it down to 1:1 lifesize magnification IIRC.

Thanks for the response! Replied to your message!

 

[neoro]

Hi, sorry for asking a n00bie question but does anyone know of any macro lenses to fit a Hasselblad 500C/M?

I've tried googling it up but I can't seem to find any answers on it. Hopefully someone here can help me on this.

Cheers!

Any lens greater than 50mm and a set of extension tube or variable extension tube or even diopters is more than sufficient.

The 120mm Makro isn't necessary.

 

[zlimmer]

That is the limitation of the old Zeiss .
I have since moved to the H3DII and the HC lenses.
Hasselblad HC and HCD are better and more versatile lenses .
The HC 120 macro for instance goes from infinity to 1:1 without tubes .
Makes a good portrait lens as well since it is still sharp even at full aperture .
With autofocus and f45 for bonus .

 

[IamJeFfy]

Ya, E100VS is Kodak cheapest slide ... S$4.30 per roll if i dont remember wrongly - fr CP penisula.

are you sure E100VS is $4.30 at CP?

 

[kiari04]

are you sure E100VS is $4.30 at CP?

ya, tht's wat i bot in Aug 09 before my China trip ...

Am a cheapo guy ...

 

[plsoong]

That is the limitation of the old Zeiss .
I have since moved to the H3DII and the HC lenses.
Hasselblad HC and HCD are better and more versatile lenses .
The HC 120 macro for instance goes from infinity to 1:1 without tubes .
Makes a good portrait lens as well since it is still sharp even at full aperture .
With autofocus and f45 for bonus .

but then hor the HC lenses cannot be used on old bodies ...say 503CW rite?

 

[IamJeFfy]

ya, tht's wat i bot in Aug 09 before my China trip ...

Am a cheapo guy ...

and i paid $6.80 for it...

Am a stupid guy .. -_-