Guide To Insect Macro Photography
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I have a question here. If the closeup filter/lens will give you a fix working distance, then what is the pt of switching to normal focusing? Let say you are using +4 closeup filter which means that you have stand 25cm away(based simply on calculation) fr subject to get it in focus. If you were to switch to normal focus and stand 35 cm away, will the cam ever get it in focus? :dunno:
zhapchit
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Originally posted by azone
Hi all,
Did a simple writeout of the topic on Insect Macro Photography. The info inside is based on my own experiences, so the techniques and settings involved are more biased towards a specific model - Fuji S602Z. Of course, they can be used as references for any digital cameras as well.
Those interested in insect shooting please feel free to have a look and please forgive me if any technical terms/interpretations/explanations are incorrect.
Insect Macro Photography
Well done azone
Get that man a Tiger
Thanks everyone again for the comments!
In the Sample Gallery page, noticed that I used MF when taking tiny insects. Usually they're under unfavorable lighting conditions, and AF at times do fail to focus properly. And even if they do, it tends to hunt the focusing for a while longer. Often, your hand would have shifted a little out of place during this short period of time, resulting in the DOF being diviated (see Getting It Sharp section in pg 2). MF is then preferred. Another reason is under a darker environment, it is easy to view from LCD (as you shift the cam to and fro) whether subject is sharp or not.
Noticed that I used AF for bigger subjects like dragonflies and butterflies. They're usually under better lighting conditions, so AF hunts better and more smoothly. And at the same time, I can use Area AF too. Under bright environment, it is quite impossible to see the LCD clearly too, so manual focusing is definitely out too.
To answer your qn, yes, at 35cm, AF will not be able to focus the subject. Therefore, it involves good estimation (thru experience) to position your cam at approx 22cm and then use AF to focus. Ever wonder why at times your subject is OOF? This could be due to incorrect estimation rather than handshake.
Ah... good question. Normal focusing (AF) and Manual focusing (MF) has their own use under different circumstances.
In the Sample Gallery page, noticed that I used MF when taking tiny insects. Usually they're under unfavorable lighting conditions, and AF at times do fail to focus properly. And even if they do, it tends to hunt the focusing for a while longer. Often, your hand would have shifted a little out of place during this short period of time, resulting in the DOF being diviated (see Getting It Sharp section in pg 2). MF is then preferred. Another reason is under a darker environment, it is easy to view from LCD (as you shift the cam to and fro) whether subject is sharp or not.
Noticed that I used AF for bigger subjects like dragonflies and butterflies. They're usually under better lighting conditions, so AF hunts better and more smoothly. And at the same time, I can use Area AF too. Under bright environment, it is quite impossible to see the LCD clearly too, so manual focusing is definitely out too.
To answer your qn, yes, at 35cm, AF will not be able to focus the subject. Therefore, it involves good estimation (thru experience) to position your cam at approx 22cm and then use AF to focus. Ever wonder why at times your subject is OOF? This could be due to incorrect estimation rather than handshake.
Yes of course! I used flash for all my insect shots. As explained in pg 03, very MILD flash is used to provide fill-in effect only(to fill up any areas under shadow). Coz you never know if the sun is against your favour, and thus casting shadows on the insect's side which is facing you.
Originally posted by azone
Yes of course! I used flash for all my insect shots. As explained in pg 03, very MILD flash is used to provide fill-in effect only(to fill up any areas under shadow). Coz you never know if the sun is against your favour, and thus casting shadows on the insect's side which is facing you.
Tks. Missed that pt. Was actually pondering abt this for quite some time already. Sometimes it is better to ask then to think too much.
wow !!
kudos to azone for your efforts !! :rbounce:
u ve stirred my interest in taking insect shots olady .. hehehe .. was rather discouraged by the shots which i ve taken so far due to the slow focusing speed of my cam (or cld it be the photographer ??) and most pics turned up blur ..
ve a better grasp of what to look out for after reading ur article .. will try ur tips the next time i go to botanic gardens !!
THANX !!
coolz,
coozie
kudos to azone for your efforts !! :rbounce:
u ve stirred my interest in taking insect shots olady .. hehehe .. was rather discouraged by the shots which i ve taken so far due to the slow focusing speed of my cam (or cld it be the photographer ??) and most pics turned up blur ..
ve a better grasp of what to look out for after reading ur article .. will try ur tips the next time i go to botanic gardens !!
THANX !!
coolz,
coozie
An excellent comprehensive guide! Great effort for detailing both the settings and the approach to taking insect macros. You certainly didn't leave any stone unturned.
However, I have a query,
On Page03 you stated:
When you set - EV at any A/P/S exposure, aren't you overriding the settings by forcing the camera to underexpose by x EV with regard to the current exposure?
Hence in the case when the shutter speed is slightly over the 1/1000 A/P/S limit, applying -EV should actually be forcing/fooling the camera to use a higher shutter speed than what it normally accepts?
However, I have a query,
On Page03 you stated:
When you set - EV at any A/P/S exposure, aren't you overriding the settings by forcing the camera to underexpose by x EV with regard to the current exposure?
Hence in the case when the shutter speed is slightly over the 1/1000 A/P/S limit, applying -EV should actually be forcing/fooling the camera to use a higher shutter speed than what it normally accepts?
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