G2 @ Chingay


Thanks. I learn something new today.

This also reminds me when I had the 45-200 with my E-P1; struggled to prevent motion blur but with the slow speed, not much else I can do. In addition, for E-P1, I refused to go beyond ISO 800 also.

tts wat i did..use S mode with iso at 1600 but still the motion is a killer
 

You need to do panning with auto focus constant.
AFS just won't work in this type of situation unless you have super fast AF.
And your camera is no GH2 so I guess it doesn't make the grade.
KTi, if you use EPL1 and refuse to bump up your iso then you are hurting yourself as the Pen series is not known for fast AF.
Pen is known for nicer color rendering than G-series.
 

50-200 f3.5 with iso 800 is good enough, i was there shooting handheld
 

50-200 f3.5 with iso 800 is good enough, i was there shooting handheld

But have to remember they're using m43 cameras, they may or may not have the advantage of putting the cameras to their face as well as having the weight advantage for balancing longer lenses, not to mention the brightness of the lens differs
 

But have to remember they're using m43 cameras, they may or may not have the advantage of putting the cameras to their face as well as having the weight advantage for balancing longer lenses, not to mention the brightness of the lens differs

Agreed, using a 43 vs a m43 does make a diff.
Heck, my shutter speed barely make 1/120 for some of the darker shots.
Unless I'm in flavour of having motion blur for my pictures or using a beam light on the subjects... hope my friend (the usher) doesn't mind that.
 

dannyfoxy said:
50-200 f3.5 with iso 800 is good enough, i was there shooting handheld

Lol. Your f3.5 would have helped. I was getting 4.x-5.6/5.8. Even pushing iso to 1600 not enuff. Should have tried 3200!!! Need bright zoom..
 

my thoughts is probably asking too much for a relatively new format at the moment?
due to the lack of fast AF & bright telephoto primes or zooms. as some1 mentioned the 4/3 bright zooms, but will not be fast AF. if so,would manual focus telephoto primes be a better choice?
Certainly so for me.
Since AF is slow at low light for 43 bright zooms 50-200,maybe 3-4 secs, plus it's front heavy...MF should be better, G2 does have a good EVF, with practise it might be 1-2s, if action happens at certain spot, it is faster than AF. Only thing is no IBIS. But the G2 has a better form for hand hold so one can overcome IBIS?
manual focus lens can be gotten at a cheap. Since u have 50/1.7, probably a 100 or 135/2,8 should suffice. <200 with adapter easily (Pentax, OM, etc...) Not to mention it's easier to MF with mechanical focus than "zoom by wire".
i wouldn't increase ISO if i can, i rather use MF and prefocus, and with 2.8 at night, i get better subject isolation. This probably means carry more lens as well. F2.8 is 2 stops faster than F5.6 and that's a lot of difference.
my 2 cts:)
 

my thoughts is probably asking too much for a relatively new format at the moment?
due to the lack of fast AF & bright telephoto primes or zooms. as some1 mentioned the 4/3 bright zooms, but will not be fast AF. if so,would manual focus telephoto primes be a better choice?
Certainly so for me.
Since AF is slow at low light for 43 bright zooms 50-200,maybe 3-4 secs, plus it's front heavy...MF should be better, G2 does have a good EVF, with practise it might be 1-2s, if action happens at certain spot, it is faster than AF. Only thing is no IBIS. But the G2 has a better form for hand hold so one can overcome IBIS?
manual focus lens can be gotten at a cheap. Since u have 50/1.7, probably a 100 or 135/2,8 should suffice. <200 with adapter easily (Pentax, OM, etc...) Not to mention it's easier to MF with mechanical focus than "zoom by wire".
i wouldn't increase ISO if i can, i rather use MF and prefocus, and with 2.8 at night, i get better subject isolation. This probably means carry more lens as well. F2.8 is 2 stops faster than F5.6 and that's a lot of difference.
my 2 cts:)

Yep.. I was seriously thinking of a longer prime.. e.g. 85mm. MF not an issue with me. Was using a film SLR with MF in the past. So easy to MF. Need to do more research on 100mm primes though. Not really looked at that. But 135mm 2.8, there are used minolta primes that can fit my minolta MD adapter.. This might be the way to go until Panasonic or someone releases a fast / bright zoom.. :thumbsup: Thanks for the feedback !
 

Ya, I have the md 135/2.8 sharp but heavy too. Seldom use but good results if I find the use of it. The om 100/2.8 is a very small and light one. Good luck searching;-)
 

Yep.. I was seriously thinking of a longer prime.. e.g. 85mm. MF not an issue with me. Was using a film SLR with MF in the past. So easy to MF. Need to do more research on 100mm primes though. Not really looked at that. But 135mm 2.8, there are used minolta primes that can fit my minolta MD adapter.. This might be the way to go until Panasonic or someone releases a fast / bright zoom.. :thumbsup: Thanks for the feedback !

Recently 43 Rumors site highlighted a C mount lens, the 75mm f1.3 Navitar lens. eBay selling it for US$150 + US$48 shipping. From picture, it does not look that big mounted on a G1.

navitar.jpg


Would be interested to see what you come up with.
 

43rumors is saying that Sigma might be releasing some m4/3 lens soon.. no timeline.. but I'll wait and see.. Also FT5 rumor that Oly will announce 2 new high quality fixed lenses in May... I'll wait and see...

:think:
 

I was at Chingay yesterday and also today. What I realized was that the lack of a good fast/bright zoom really hurts. The lighting at the pit building isn't the best and using my 14-140 at around 100-120mm @ f/5.8 doesn't help.

Lol should have brought my 45-200 along but I didn't.

Shots at the wide end 100-140mm (200-280mm eq) didn't allow me any shutter speed over 1/80. Most of the time I get 1/8 to 1/30 speeds. (iso 800-1600) Which means lots of blur shots (moving objects). I did get some good shots but the slow lens didn't help.

I'm here again but this time with my 45-200. At 70-100mm my max aperture I can get is f/4.2. Which is approx a stop better. Hopefully I can achieve at least 1/100 or 1/125 shutter speeds today.

Which begs me to ask this question: would any of the following help me get faster shutter speeds ? And a better hit rate?

1) using the cdaf optimized 4/3 lens. Oly 14-54 mk II f/2.8-3.5

2) upgrade to GH2. This should give me at least a stop more low light sensitivity

Which is the best way to go? Or should I move to canon/nikon.

frankly, this is an area that Olympus is lacking. It's high ISO performance is not very good compared to the competition. None of the Olympus zoom lens will help you out, you just need to bump up the ISO, and be prepared to do noise reduction later on. A good fast bright zoom will only help to a small extent, bumping up the ISO to 3200 will help a whole lot more.

In a lot of instances like this, where one needs to capture moving objects far away in normal light (ie. cloudy light conditions), I hit the limitation of Olympus 4/3 sensor. In such situations, Canon/Nikon sensors will give you relatively noise free pics in high ISO scenarios.
 

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frankly, this is an area that Olympus is lacking. It's high ISO performance is not very good compared to the competition. None of the Olympus zoom lens will help you out, you just need to bump up the ISO, and be prepared to do noise reduction later on. A good fast bright zoom will only help to a small extent, bumping up the ISO to 3200 will help a whole lot more.

In a lot of instances like this, where one needs to capture moving objects far away in normal light (ie. cloudy light conditions), I hit the limitation of Olympus 4/3 sensor. In such situations, Canon/Nikon sensors will give you relatively noise free pics in high ISO scenarios.

I've said it before and I'll say it again, give Olympus time, they will improve, slow they may be, but that's their problem, if they want to go slower, they only have themselves to blame, I'm happy with what I have, the m43 system is still young, Olympus started later than Panasonic hence there is little lenses but they're coming up with more, besides, there are so many other lenses from other brands both old and new, finding lens shouldn't be a problem, the problem is whether one is willing to focus manually or not
 

I've said it before and I'll say it again, give Olympus time, they will improve, slow they may be, but that's their problem, if they want to go slower, they only have themselves to blame, I'm happy with what I have, the m43 system is still young, Olympus started later than Panasonic hence there is little lenses but they're coming up with more, besides, there are so many other lenses from other brands both old and new, finding lens shouldn't be a problem, the problem is whether one is willing to focus manually or not

I'm sure finding a lens is not a problem, but as I've said, you'll get better mileage if you just bump up the ISO, then figure out which lens to take with you on a street shoot.

Anyways, I feel that if you've to stick a manual lens to the m4/3 camera, it just doesn't balance right and it won't feel right in your hands. It's meant to be a small form factor camera and that includes the lens. That will be like sticking a Porsche wheel on a Suzuki car. Sure the Suzuki will run, but it sure doesn't look good or drive good.
 

Depends, I don't bother about the exterior looking good as long as it feels good and works well ;D
 

I'm sure finding a lens is not a problem, but as I've said, you'll get better mileage if you just bump up the ISO, then figure out which lens to take with you on a street shoot.

Anyways, I feel that if you've to stick a manual lens to the m4/3 camera, it just doesn't balance right and it won't feel right in your hands. It's meant to be a small form factor camera and that includes the lens. That will be like sticking a Porsche wheel on a Suzuki car. Sure the Suzuki will run, but it sure doesn't look good or drive good.

Well, YMMV, I'd rather avoid bumping up the ISO, on any camera. I prefer higher quality lower ISO and faster lenses.

As for using any lens on m4/3, you are right in general, but there are also a few people who can adapt without problems, like folks who can use many types of camera without any issues.

Using a big lens on m4/3 is no issue to me, but obviously my usage is not for everyone. I use m4/3 as I like a good small digital camera that can accept different lenses, whether small or big. If Nex had a good viewfinder, I would have one of that as well.

I'll have a bigger problem with a big camera with a big lens, balanced sure, no problem for short sessions, but need more exercise to hold or carry longer. Makes me feel wimpy seeing girls hold their big guns with their skinny arms like nothing, no strap even - Tyra Banks with her Hasselblad
 

I'll have a bigger problem with a big camera with a big lens, balanced sure, no problem for short sessions, but need more exercise to hold or carry longer. Makes me feel wimpy seeing girls hold their big guns with their skinny arms like nothing, no strap even - Tyra Banks with her Hasselblad

:bsmilie: Mine opposite, big lens and cameras, no problem,long or short, but wen comes to small,a bit problematic with handling hahahahha, not wimpy la, just need practice ;)
 

Yep.. I was seriously thinking of a longer prime.. e.g. 85mm. MF not an issue with me. Was using a film SLR with MF in the past. So easy to MF. Need to do more research on 100mm primes though. Not really looked at that. But 135mm 2.8, there are used minolta primes that can fit my minolta MD adapter.. This might be the way to go until Panasonic or someone releases a fast / bright zoom.. :thumbsup: Thanks for the feedback !

We were there very briefly, but close up, and the fastest speed I got for ISO 1600 was 1/500, f/1.7.

From the distance you were shooting at - f/2, ISO 800, and 1/250 or 1/125 would still give you a good DOF width to capture a scene even with manual focus in continuous mode for a better hit rate. 1/500 and up is the ideal speed but one can still get away with some pics at lesser speed from that distance. Might as well go for the higher quality ISO 800 (or even ISO 400 if the opportunity presents itself).

So I guess you will want a fast lens if you'd like to use ISO 1600 and below in such situations with exuberant movement. Even with a Canon 7d for example, you will still want a fast lens (at least I would) for fast movement indoors like the Youth Olympics, or night outdoors like Chingay.


.
 

I just hope with all the new announcements of sigma, cosina, sk, zeiss etc joining m4/3, someone releases a bright zoom fast!!!! National day coming
 

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