focus and recomposing


qwertok

New Member
i had read many articles regarding spot metering usage and some had suggested this:

Meter first
Set Focus
Recompose

I had a question regarding this, if lets say you focus your object using the middle point and aim at the eye, after recomposing wont the eye be out of focus already?

Thanks for advice on this point.
 

If your DOF is too thin - yes.
 

Hi cks2k2, thanks for the reply. but you mean if the dof is larger it will not be affected? so the advice is mainly for landscape photography and not for portraits?
 

The spot metering measures the small area of circle in the viewfinder.It depends on which part of the scene you want to emphasize
or get more detail so it can be not at the center so you shift the circle to the area of interest take the reading and lock the exposure setting and then recompose (focus) your picture.Bear in mind that if the scene has high dynamic light intensity (from bright to dark) you may have to meter the overall picture and choose exposure inbetween average and spot metering.In other words try a few bracketing shots to see what is the best effect you have in mind.
 

Hi cks2k2, thanks for the reply. but you mean if the dof is larger it will not be affected? so the advice is mainly for landscape photography and not for portraits?

It's for portraits too, but it assumes you'll be smart enough to either adjust aperture, or your own position in order to maintain focus. Or just use a side focus point, though that does not help with the centre-weighted/spot metering unless you do an AE lock.
 

The spot metering measures the small area of circle in the viewfinder.It depends on which part of the scene you want to emphasize
or get more detail so it can be not at the center so you shift the circle to the area of interest take the reading and lock the exposure setting and then recompose (focus) your picture.Bear in mind that if the scene has high dynamic light intensity (from bright to dark) you may have to meter the overall picture and choose exposure inbetween average and spot metering.In other words try a few bracketing shots to see what is the best effect you have in mind.

What does it mean by bracketing shots? :)
 

It's for portraits too, but it assumes you'll be smart enough to either adjust aperture, or your own position in order to maintain focus. Or just use a side focus point, though that does not help with the centre-weighted/spot metering unless you do an AE lock.

so... that will mean that the last point is redundant? since if we can actually focus the obj using the right focus point instead of using the middle one and the recompose to refocus which is a waste of time.

adjusting the aperture means that if we use middle focus point to focus the eye at (lets say F8), and we moved the position till the eye is on the top focus point, there will not be lost of focus?

and also, it is rumored that the centre focus point has the best focus, is it true? sorry to ask so much.
thanks for the advice.
 

so... that will mean that the last point is redundant? since if we can actually focus the obj using the right focus point instead of using the middle one and the recompose to refocus which is a waste of time.

It's not a waste of time due to the metering.


adjusting the aperture means that if we use middle focus point to focus the eye at (lets say F8), and we moved the position till the eye is on the top focus point, there will not be lost of focus?

At f/8 your DOF is deep. You'll have problems blurring the background though.

and also, it is rumored that the centre focus point has the best focus, is it true? sorry to ask so much.
thanks for the advice.

Usually the centre group of sensors, or in an entry level camera, just the centre point, has the most accurate focus. That is true.
 

Hi qwertok, taking a meter reading and focusing are two different functions that a digital camera will perform in order to take a picture.
in normal operation it is set to average metering but because you want to meter a certain part of the picture to expose
properly for that "spot" or area so that details are clearly seen you need to target or move the central circle to that place. Because you have shifted the angle of view, the camera will refocus just as it is programmed by software to do ,it is just following instructions so to speak.

In order to measure or take a meter reading the camera must first focus to get accurate reading either because it uses contrast detection or phase detection as autofocus method in the camera system.
 

Hmm.. This thread has cast some doubts on the method I use...

Usually if the lighting conditions are not tricky (even lighting - nothing too bright in front or back) , then I tend to juz use the centre focus pt to lock focus on the subject's eye then hold focus (AE & AF lock tgt on my shutter button), recompose then shoot.

I think the subject shud still be sharp if I nv change the distance to the subject or if the subject nv move rite?
 

Hmm.. This thread has cast some doubts on the method I use...

Usually if the lighting conditions are not tricky (even lighting - nothing too bright in front or back) , then I tend to juz use the centre focus pt to lock focus on the subject's eye then hold focus (AE & AF lock tgt on my shutter button), recompose then shoot.

I think the subject shud still be sharp if I nv change the distance to the subject or if the subject nv move rite?

We are talking about spot metering and I think you are just picking on the eye to help camera focus because the eye has the most contrast (black and white).Metering and focus are two different functions. Or have I misunderstood qwertok's post? :)
 

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Go full manual. Adjust your own shutter speed and aperture. Manual focus ;)
 

We are talking about spot metering and I think you are just picking on the eye to help camera focus because the eye has the most contrast (black and white).Metering and focus are two different functions. Or have I misunderstood qwertok's post? :)

Yupp, metering and focus is two different function. I am just curious abt the meter-recompose method that was mention online quite often and how it works. Because if you work w a large aperture, a slight tilt of your camera will make your original focus out of focus.

and Thanks for all the advices!
 

qwertok said:
Yupp, metering and focus is two different function. I am just curious abt the meter-recompose method that was mention online quite often and how it works. Because if you work w a large aperture, a slight tilt of your camera will make your original focus out of focus.

and Thanks for all the advices!

Errr... Ya that's y I'm confused. In your above statement, u are tying metering w focus..

If u intend to meter for a particular spot in your scene, and u use AE lock to lock the exposure settings. You can then recompose and focus on your intended point in the scene and the exposure setting should remain rite?
 

Errr... Ya that's y I'm confused. In your above statement, u are tying metering w focus..

If u intend to meter for a particular spot in your scene, and u use AE lock to lock the exposure settings. You can then recompose and focus on your intended point in the scene and the exposure setting should remain rite?

This is only for spot metering but if you have a high dynamic range type of scene like back lighting or subject near window,the spot meter reading may not be best exposure as the overall picture may be too bright or dark so need to balance exposure between overall
scene and the small area you want to emphasize.You may have to choose an exposure between average and spot metering to get the effect you envision as I said earlier.The thing is if you choose the spot meter reading the larger area or overall picture may be over or under exposed hence to bracket your exposure with a few more frames using different F stop or shutter speed.Which is the difference
between the overall picture's average metering and the spot area meter reading.Hope is is clear.

PS If you AE lock the spot meter reading and use it to expose the picture this reading may not be the optimal one as I explained above.
 

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