Exposure doubts


It's not a matter of what camera model or how basic or sophisticated the camera's metering is even though where and how a camera meters does have significant impact on the resulting files.

It has to do with exposure values and a capturing device's dynamic range - how much bright and dark you can capture without either highlights or shadows go completely white or black.

The samples you provided also look like they were shot on dull, overcast days. Barring atmospheric factors, they could probably be improved in post if you shot in RAW.

Read up more on the BASICS of light, exposure and digital cameras if you haven't already done so.

I can say that...the day weather dont seem good too..i do both raw + jpg files as just in case i might need to re-touch the shoot again...

For the raw files, i just tune down the brightness and it look fine..but still wont able to catch much details of the sky..
 

I can say that...the day weather dont seem good too..i do both raw + jpg files as just in case i might need to re-touch the shoot again...

For the raw files, i just tune down the brightness and it look fine..but still wont able to catch much details of the sky..

You might want to consider getting a graduated ND filter.
 

actually i am using a CPL that day...
 

ya..i manage to catch abit with CPL..so graduated ND filter is better?
 

It's not a matter of what camera model or how basic or sophisticated the camera's metering is even though where and how a camera meters does have significant impact on the resulting files.

It has to do with exposure values and a capturing device's dynamic range - how much bright and dark you can capture without either highlights or shadows go completely white or black.

The samples you provided also look like they were shot on dull, overcast days. Barring atmospheric factors, they could probably be improved in post if you shot in RAW.

Read up more on the BASICS of light, exposure and digital cameras if you haven't already done so.

Sometimes your sky is overly bright. So when your landscape is of correct exposure, your sky will be overexposed. CPL affects your whole photo so I think it does not help. Whereas a graduated filter reduces the amount light for your overly bright sky allowing you to get more details. You can do bracketing also.

Check this out.
http://www.luminous-landscape.com/tutorials/hdr.shtml

There are many other websites you can look up.
 

rysouke, I'm sure your picture will turn out a lot better if you go on a sunny day. You happen to pick a cloudy day.
 

Graduated ND filters works best when the horizon is flat. I don't think Xiao Guilin is the ideal place to use them.
 

Graduated ND filters works best when the horizon is flat. I don't think Xiao Guilin is the ideal place to use them.

I agree. However, there is also graduated ND filter with a soft transition. I think TS can try to do bracketing in that case. Does kaixiang have any good solution in TS's case? Ha I'm recently trying out HDR also....
 

I agree. However, there is also graduated ND filter with a soft transition. I think TS can try to do bracketing in that case. Does kaixiang have any good solution in TS's case? Ha I'm recently trying out HDR also....

Whenever possible, the best thing to do is to return to the place at a better time. If the lighting conditions are not good, any processing is going to be more hassle than it should be, and the results are more of a salvage product. :)
 

It's a common problem with entry level Canon models.

You could change your metering mode to point or centre-averaging and meter the "cliff" with -0.3eV compensation.

metering being tricked is not just common to entry level canon models. it applies to every brand, and every camera. from the lowly entry level cameras to the expensive d3s, unless you are adept with using spot metering or guestimating correct compensation, you will face this problem, always.
 

I agree. However, there is also graduated ND filter with a soft transition. I think TS can try to do bracketing in that case. Does kaixiang have any good solution in TS's case? Ha I'm recently trying out HDR also....

I did what ahbian mentioned. Basically wait for a good day. I also use film to deal with the dynamic range but that is not practical for everyone. The best thing I can come up with is to expose for the sky and let the other values fall to wherever they might. The exposure should come out looking more correct and there should be more room for recovery in the raw file.
 

erm..that day the sun is very bright and hot and then suddenly turn windy and cloudy and I notice almost all of photo are very bright especially the sky ...i think i should try to exposure for the sky..as what kaixiang mention...
 

I took these two pictures on a sunny day with my Sony H50 at about the same time. No PP or filter.

DSC04489.jpg



DSC04500.jpg
 

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I did what ahbian mentioned. Basically wait for a good day. I also use film to deal with the dynamic range but that is not practical for everyone. The best thing I can come up with is to expose for the sky and let the other values fall to wherever they might. The exposure should come out looking more correct and there should be more room for recovery in the raw file.

just observe the timing, there will be a time of the day where the subject is lit up properly. :)
 

A CLP filter is useless in this instant because the sun is coming from the back; polarization is almost non-existent.
 

can i know what time you take that picture?? which part of the photo did u expose?
 

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which part do u expose?

I use Multi-pattern metering; the camera basically divide the picture into multiple regions and measures each region to get an average reading.
 

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