EPL2 Likes & dislikes by wonglp

[albertri]

You shld not go for EP1, coz no port for EVF, which is great for MF lenses

u r right about the front back focusing issue, it doesn't occur on the new lens. The size and weight is also reduced on the 14-42 as well. The new lens focus fast too on the EP2 and EPL1, just tested the old and new on both the bodies. :thumbsup:

the grip and ergo of EPL1/2 is better than EP2, so if u mount slightly bigger MF lens, the grip might come in use. was using ZD70-300 other day at the zoo with EP2, my finger felt numbed. Something to think abt

Iirc, u dun use much manual lenses right? Albert manual lenses collection seems to have increased,haha.
If use only AF lenses, EP1 is still a great camera, that's my 1st Pen but after start using manual lenses, MF on EP1 lcd cannot make it!
Main reason for selling it as well. Still think my white Ep1 is the nicest camera I owned.
When i sell manual lens, always ask buyer to think twice if dun have EVF haha, or i ask them upgrade to EVF if using Pen or change their GF to Pen with EVF
I'm not sure the red dot prob is fixable via firmware, since already have the EPL2, just live with it till Pro body comes along...imo, EPL2 is still a good upgrade even from EPL1, i'm actually pretty impressed with the kit lens AF performance. Tell this to the Pany users, they will laugh!!!

thanks man for the feedback yeah have a lot of Minolta lenses now and I am sure i would want to use them also thats why I al looking at getting a mirrorless (NEX or PEN) so i could share lenses

Sadly I might have to wait for EPL2 to get the red dot fixed, if you check my FB you'll see mostly landscape shots but saw some photo taken by EPL2 and man I surely miss the Oly colors:sweat: thats why I am planning to get m4/3 so I could use my current lenses

 

[albertri]

Bro Wonglp when you have time pls post some more smaple photos really like to see more photos coming from you and your EPL2:thumbsup:

 

[spidey89]

I can mf too indoor ya, surely I agree, use what's good for u dun get poison by others !keke.

Especially like you right?:bsmilie: So fast buy E-PL2 post review,crap! OT already :bsmilie:,time to zip it

 

[wonglp]

Especially like you right?:bsmilie: So fast buy E-PL2 post review,crap! OT already :bsmilie:,time to zip it

Ya, too much OT liao! back to review

Bro Wonglp when you have time pls post some more smaple photos really like to see more photos coming from you and your EPL2:thumbsup:

Hope to find some time tonight, hope the pictures can convince not deter, tks for viewing! :bsmilie:

 

[wonglp]

Some features that I like

1. Copyright feature, can put your name & copyright name and the info will be input into the exif. Professionals will welcome this feature, although this is not a pro level cam, it's still refreshing to see this. Not found on previous PENs.

2. Super Control Panel, this is often a hidden menu. Can be found in all Pen/E series DSLR. I like this alot coming from E410/E620 dslr, but on the Pen, this is hidden so it's a dislike for hidding it. With SCP, most changes can be made on the fly. This would be one the first thing I do with a new Pen, unless you are using iAuto most of the time

3. Just found out there are more variation to Art Filters...Some of the Art filters can come with borders, not a big thing if u PP ur pictures, nifty feature if u are lazy like me:sweat:
Pop Art & Pinhole has several variations now. Grainy film has 2, the one which the previous Pens has i feel is overdone, the new one seems better.
Was trying to simulate the new art filters from Viewer 2 software, can't seem to do it.

Will post some more pics probably this weekend on this new art filters.

4. I really like the grip and feel of EPL2 vs EPL1 or EP2. If you only use native m43 lenses, that's fine, but should you use heavier long lenses, epl2 ergo is really better and it feels better too.

5. The little flash that EP2 should have had...it's weak, can bounce but still can be useful at times. I find with Pany 20/1.7 lens + flash it's a great combo for low light portrait & landscape shots.

Some dislikes

1. No orientation sensor, possibly to cut costs...same as EPL1. EP1/2 has this.

2. No dedicated AEL button, the fix to this is to set it with Fn key or dedicated movie button.


Pics to follow by the weekend, Thanks for viewing!

 

[Ouverture]

I had the opportunity to shoot directly at the sun this morning to try out the "red-spot issue".

My observations are:
1) Red spots won't really appear until at F22.
2) Even when they appear, it won't be really visible unless viewed at 100%

So my conclusion to all the huge hyped over the "red-spots issues" are:
1) That is not going to concern me as I don't shoot directly at the sun or bright spots.
2) I don't use F22, especially so for m4/3, there's no need to go such small aperture since the DOF is pretty much deep at F8 already.
3) We don't view photos at 100% crop all the time.
4) I like E-PL2 for it's looks and image quality, even at ISO1600 is almost similar to my DSLR.
5) Lastly, the improved fast AF of E-PL2 alone is the reason why you should get this new PEN.

 

[tomcat]

Comparing the E-PL2 with GF2...

Likes:
(1) In-body IS more useful as it applies to all lenses. With lens-based IS, you are held ransom by the manufacturer if you want a lens that has IS and they don't produce one. Or if you want to use another brand's m43 lens on the GF2. Eg. Olympus' excellent m43 40-150mm MSC lens is harder to use on the GF2 without IS.

(2) I find that when using the same lens, E-PL2's images are generally sharper than those from the GF2. This is probably because the anti-aliasing filter on the E-PL2 is weaker than that of the GF2.

Dislikes:
(1) Though faster than that of the EP1/2, the autofocusing is still discernibly less snappy than that of the GF2.

(2) Some Panasonic m43 lenses might not work 100% as well on the E-PL2 as compared to on its own camera bodies like the GF2. I have had occassionally some problems refocussing closed up when using the Leica 45mm f/2.8 Macro lens on the E-PL2 and no such problems when using it on the GF2.

(3) The Lumix 3D lens cannot be used at all on the E-PL2.

 

[spidey89]

Eh brother,E-1 and I think E-300 also don't have super control panel hahahah

Ouverture, not to mention f22 got defracton, I find that even f8 or f11 has red spots when I shot into a LED torch, but I usually shot around 4 or 5.6 or 8 if needed, but like you, I don't shoot into the sun often, if not,ever with my PEN, only time I shoot into bright sources of light is with my DSLR

 

[nightpiper]

Sorry if i had to pour cold water. The red spots i feel is a serious issue. There's no ther way around it, allow me to share my views.

1) The red spots is strong at F8. Solution 1 is to use a ND filter, 2 scenarios will appear. First is with the ND filter on, say -2EV ratings, u maintain F8 but slower speed . The red spots will still be there becos its still F8. 2nd thing to happen is with the ND, u open up the aperture to F4 to avoid using F8, in this case u lose the DOF.

2) Avoid shooting in the sun. Is this even a solution at all? Lets not talk about sun, from spidey torchlight samples, u can already see the problem. Nobody can guarantee shooting pics w/o street lamps, spot lights, ceiling lights, dinner lights, candle lights, etc. all sorts of pointed light source. It can be as simple as a reflection of the street lamp from a car, or a reflection from the flash light on the wine glass/background mirror.


I'll leave an old pic here & u guys tell me if w/o the sun, will the effect be as good

Lastly, i dun think this sensor comes from Panny becos their u43 cams dun exhibit such red spots. I feel Oly needs to offer a remedy to keep the faith of those who bought it & future customers.

 

[Ouverture]

Sorry if i had to pour cold water. The red spots i feel is a serious issue. There's no ther way around it, allow me to share my views.

1) The red spots is strong at F8. Solution 1 is to use a ND filter, 2 scenarios will appear. First is with the ND filter on, say -2EV ratings, u maintain F8 but slower speed . The red spots will still be there becos its still F8. 2nd thing to happen is with the ND, u open up the aperture to F4 to avoid using F8, in this case u lose the DOF.

2) Avoid shooting in the sun. Is this even a solution at all? Lets not talk about sun, from spidey torchlight samples, u can already see the problem. Nobody can guarantee shooting pics w/o street lamps, spot lights, ceiling lights, dinner lights, candle lights, etc. all sorts of pointed light source. It can be as simple as a reflection of the street lamp from a car, or a reflection from the flash light on the wine glass/background mirror.

I'll leave an old pic here & u guys tell me if w/o the sun, will the effect be as good

Lastly, i dun think this sensor comes from Panny becos their u43 cams dun exhibit such red spots. I feel Oly needs to offer a remedy to keep the faith of those who bought it & future customers.

Yes i do agree its not a minor problem and i know this is not acceptable for folks that require the optimal quality or effects in their pictures.

I am not trying to defend for Olympus and of course hope they can do something to resolve this for owners like us.

However, as a consumer grade camera (which is intended to be) and for consumer photographer like me who uses this camera for family and casual outings, it has already performed according to what i wanted it to be.

Seriously, if i really wanted to be creative, then i will bring out my dslr.

IMO, these grades of evil cameras are like "pns" for people who owned dslr so as not to compromise too much on quality yet remains portable enough for us to enjoy the outings itself.

 

[wonglp]

I had the opportunity to shoot directly at the sun this morning to try out the "red-spot issue".

My observations are:
1) Red spots won't really appear until at F22.
2) Even when they appear, it won't be really visible unless viewed at 100%

So my conclusion to all the huge hyped over the "red-spots issues" are:
1) That is not going to concern me as I don't shoot directly at the sun or bright spots.
2) I don't use F22, especially so for m4/3, there's no need to go such small aperture since the DOF is pretty much deep at F8 already.
3) We don't view photos at 100% crop all the time.
4) I like E-PL2 for it's looks and image quality, even at ISO1600 is almost similar to my DSLR.
5) Lastly, the improved fast AF of E-PL2 alone is the reason why you should get this new PEN.

I would agree E-PL2 looks, IQ, and AF speed (compared to previous Pens) are great, and this had been my likes too. Imo, the "RDP" is a dislike, it appears at F8 in one of the lampost shot posted earlier, it didn't appear until F18 on bright day though.
I do shoot at the sun sometimes, i have pic example to show below. And it's not always about DOF. Again, imo, ymmv;p

Comparing the E-PL2 with GF2...

Likes:
(1) In-body IS more useful as it applies to all lenses. With lens-based IS, you are held ransom by the manufacturer if you want a lens that has IS and they don't produce one. Or if you want to use another brand's m43 lens on the GF2. Eg. Olympus' excellent m43 40-150mm MSC lens is harder to use on the GF2 without IS.

(2) I find that when using the same lens, E-PL2's images are generally sharper than those from the GF2. This is probably because the anti-aliasing filter on the E-PL2 is weaker than that of the GF2.

Dislikes:
(1) Though faster than that of the EP1/2, the autofocusing is still discernibly less snappy than that of the GF2.

(2) Some Panasonic m43 lenses might not work 100% as well on the E-PL2 as compared to on its own camera bodies like the GF2. I have had occassionally some problems refocussing closed up when using the Leica 45mm f/2.8 Macro lens on the E-PL2 and no such problems when using it on the GF2.

(3) The Lumix 3D lens cannot be used at all on the E-PL2.

Totally agree, can't comment on GF2 or 3D lens coz i dun have either. But i definitely believe your statement To add, for in body IS, it;s also great for anyone who likes manual lenses too!

Eh brother,E-1 and I think E-300 also don't have super control panel hahahah

Ouverture, not to mention f22 got defracton, I find that even f8 or f11 has red spots when I shot into a LED torch, but I usually shot around 4 or 5.6 or 8 if needed, but like you, I don't shoot into the sun often, if not,ever with my PEN, only time I shoot into bright sources of light is with my DSLR

Eh brudder, it's diffraction lah, haha!!! Ok, i correct my self, only E410 onwards that I know have SCP

Sorry if i had to pour cold water. The red spots i feel is a serious issue. There's no ther way around it, allow me to share my views.
I feel Oly needs to offer a remedy to keep the faith of those who bought it & future customers.

Tks for posting, I don't think this is cold water as I feel this could be a prob for me too. I like the effect of sun streaking, and to have the effect a small aperture had to be used in the following case of F22. Images below taken with EPL1 last time, you can see some slight red spots too (which I am OK, although some would not be), this is under drastic condition i would say, i can't imagine if F22 on EPL2 how bad the red spots would turn out. On my previous i did show 2 images of EPL1 vs EPL2 red spots @ F22 with same lens, on EPL1 is well controlled.

Note this is taken with EPL1 @ F22, some red spots which is still manageable imo...

Sure for those who dun shoot at FXX at the sun, maybe that's ok. But again, my previous post on this thread of the lampost shows red spots at F8...so I am not sure what other situations will occur esp night shots with street lights.

By the way, I have been using Oly for past 4 years from E410/E620 and all the Pens i had owned briefly, I had never switched camp before...yet. I like Oly colors, innovation and optics. Not paid by C/N/S/P etc to switch camps to write this, just to voice out my "likes" and "dislikes". Apart from the RDP, there's nothing really outstanding dislike I have. So it's certainly up to individual discretion on how serious this problem is.

 

[nightpiper]

Yes i do agree its not a minor problem and i know this is not acceptable for folks that require the optimal quality or effects in their pictures.

I am not trying to defend for Olympus and of course hope they can do something to resolve this for owners like us.

However, as a consumer grade camera (which is intended to be) and for consumer photographer like me who uses this camera for family and casual outings, it has already performed according to what i wanted it to be.

Seriously, if i really wanted to be creative, then i will bring out my dslr.

IMO, these grades of evil cameras are like "pns" for people who owned dslr so as not to compromise too much on quality yet remains portable enough for us to enjoy the outings itself.

I dun quite agree le. Whether consumer grade or not, a cam shud not behave like that. I've used Oly C5050 & 8080 & Nikon coolpix twistable 3MP P&S in the past, no issue at all, P&S or not.

What i've mentioned r casual shoot senarios. In a wedding dinner or family eating in a restaurant, or street shoot in the evening, there r bound to be spots of light sources from lamp posts, car headlights or tail brake lights, traffice lights, flash, etc. No way to avoid light spots is everywhere, so i dun think the "ostrich mentality" is right, ie. "i dun shoot in the sun so no issue for me" or "its a consumer grade, what do u expect?"

This PL2 is not priced at $200 like a simple P&S, definitely not acceptable in my books, consumer grade or not. But i'll like to see Oly commitment to a remedy for affected sets.

I wudn't let a cam flaw like this dictate what i can shoot & what i can't shoot. If i want to shoot long exposure of the street with cars & lamp posts, i bring along a tripod. With such problem, that means i give in & dun shoot at all. U find this logical & acceptable after paying ~$870?

Tks for posting, I don't think this is cold water as I feel this could be a prob for me too. I like the effect of sun streaking, and to have the effect a small aperture had to be used in the following case of F22. Images below taken with EPL1 last time, you can see some slight red spots too (which I am OK, although some would not be), this is under drastic condition i would say, i can't imagine if F22 on EPL2 how bad the red spots would turn out. On my previous i did show 2 images of EPL1 vs EPL2 red spots @ F22 with same lens, on EPL1 is well controlled.

Note this is taken with EPL1 @ F22, some red spots which is still manageable imo...


Sure for those who dun shoot at FXX at the sun, maybe that's ok. But again, my previous post on this thread of the lampost shows red spots at F8...so I am not sure what other situations will occur esp night shots with street lights.

The issue is very bad at F8 & its a very commonly use aperture size, if its bad only at F22, still not that a big deal. Imagine u go holiday & want to shoot at F8, the buildings' windows is reflecting light from the sun, u get all sorts of red spots from all over.

 

[wonglp]

This PL2 is not priced at $200 like a simple P&S, definitely not acceptable in my books, consumer grade or not. But i'll like to see Oly commitment to a remedy for affected sets.

I wudn't let a cam flaw like this dictate what i can shoot & what i can't shoot. If i want to shoot long exposure of the street with cars & lamp posts, i bring along a tripod. With such problem, that means i give in & dun shoot at all. U find this logical & acceptable after paying ~$870?

The issue is very bad at F8 & its a very commonly use aperture size, if its bad only at F22, still not that a big deal. Imagine u go holiday & want to shoot at F8, the buildings' windows is reflecting light from the sun, u get all sorts of red spots from all over.

haha, relax lah bro, u haven't bought it yet, we did:bsmilie:
Certainly i do hope :sweat: oly can fix this via firmware coz if it's sensor/aa filter i doubt they would do a recall or even sensor change, after all, they are not toyota with deep pockets.
and this news is certainly not a good sign...

will be going OSC next Sat EPL2 XZ1 workshop, hopefully there's some answer.

if no solution, i will practise "Ah Q mentality (阿Q精&#31070 by shooting more with dramatic art filter which i really like. kekeke...

Here's a couple of dramatic art filter, hope u like it!

Taken with fujinon 75/1.8 manual lens, seems that this art filter can make the picture look painterly...

a shot with Panasonic 20mm/1.7

 

[albertri]

I do agree with bro nightpiper and I do hope this issue will be resolve soon. I am really considering EPL2 and holding back due to the red spot as I shoot a lot of landscape with sun and also like bro Wonglp sample street night shots with lamp post or strong light source...

Worst case scenario for me would 2nd hand EP2 :bsmilie: and hopefully missus will approve my procurement request :bsmilie:

 

[spidey89]

Sorry,was busy then didn't really think properly of spelling hahahha

 

[diCam]

haha, relax lah bro, u haven't bought it yet, we did:bsmilie:
Certainly i do hope :sweat: oly can fix this via firmware coz if it's sensor/aa filter i doubt they would do a recall or even sensor change, after all, they are not toyota with deep pockets.
and this news is certainly not a good sign...

*Original post deleted*

Let hope the new Chief can bring new ideas and rejuvenate the imaging division.

 

[wonglp]

I do agree with bro nightpiper and I do hope this issue will be resolve soon. I am really considering EPL2 and holding back due to the red spot as I shoot a lot of landscape with sun and also like bro Wonglp sample street night shots with lamp post or strong light source...

Worst case scenario for me would 2nd hand EP2 :bsmilie: and hopefully missus will approve my procurement request :bsmilie:

Bro, too bad just sold my EP2 last week. But i saw it selling again this week... I actually prefer the EPL1 than EP2. Other than feel, lower max shutter speed, no remote shutter release, small screen, it's better than EP2 in most areas.
So EPL2 is like of EP2 + EPL1, kinda like fixing the problems they din do right the first time:dunno:
One thing I realize is also the ISO 100 is no longer available in EPL2. Instead there is 6400, not useful for me, i max out at 1600 normally.
Reason is Base ISO 200 has best dynamic range, ISO 100 has blown highlight as well. I can understand iso200 for landscapes with high contrast, but not so if taking portraits with teleprimes? So if I use fast manual prime like f1.4, it's too bright and max out at 1/4000s, so pics are overexpose...:nono:
so have to either stop down or put ND filter in front to retain the shallow DOF...
Certainly, this setting pertain to a small group of user like me...
So another dislike for me...
Other than these too more strong dislikes, i really have no complains abt this camera...the art filters is alot more fun now.

 

[wonglp]

The m43 40-150 kit lens is a very good lens. It's fast, quiet and on a bright day, it's certainly a sharp performer with very decent bokeh, imo. But when it's night time, it struggles as with most kits I had tested before with its 4-5.6 aperture. One thing I realize is that it's quite stiff in zooming, not sure if I had a bad copy. On my 43 ZD 40-150 it's very smooth, downside it's much slower and uncertain.

Here's some shots with m43 40-150 to share. No PP as usual.

Smooth bokeh with it's 7 blades circular aperture design. 70mm, f4.6, 1/1250s, iso 800 (Din realize i set it that high iso)

At 150mm f5.6, 1/800, it's still sharp with good details even at iso800. (Din realize i set it that high iso)

Nice colors as expected from Oly jpeg engine, one of the strong points for ppl who aren't into PP. At 150mm F5.6, 1/200s, iso 200

Nice skintones and sharpness at 150mm, F5.6, 1/200s, iso200. It's also a nice portrait lens.

 

[albertri]

Bro, too bad just sold my EP2 last week. But i saw it selling again this week... I actually prefer the EPL1 than EP2. Other than feel, lower max shutter speed, no remote shutter release, small screen, it's better than EP2 in most areas.
So EPL2 is like of EP2 + EPL1, kinda like fixing the problems they din do right the first time:dunno:
One thing I realize is also the ISO 100 is no longer available in EPL2. Instead there is 6400, not useful for me, i max out at 1600 normally.
Reason is Base ISO 200 has best dynamic range, ISO 100 has blown highlight as well. I can understand iso200 for landscapes with high contrast, but not so if taking portraits with teleprimes? So if I use fast manual prime like f1.4, it's too bright and max out at 1/4000s, so pics are overexpose...:nono:
so have to either stop down or put ND filter in front to retain the shallow DOF...
Certainly, this setting pertain to a small group of user like me...
So another dislike for me...
Other than these too more strong dislikes, i really have no complains abt this camera...the art filters is alot more fun now.

Thanks Bro for the honest feedback I normally shoot @ ISO200 even with my A33 and lately I am not really using my 50mm f1.8 i dunno why APSC 50mm feels not here nor there the focal lenght is kinda off for me i guess the best portrait focal for APSC 1.5x crop is 85mm w/c will feel like 100mm and in 4/3 50mm is 100mm equivalent..

Now a days I shoot portraits using telezoom lens like 80-200 f2.8 or the monilta beer can 70-210 f4 I can get the desired DOF just need to be a bit far from your subject :bsmilie:

So far I like what I am hearing/reading about EPL2 and XZ1... will monitor what Oly will response to the red dot thingy for EPL2.

 

[wonglp]

I am not really using my 50mm f1.8 i dunno why APSC 50mm feels not here nor there the focal lenght is kinda off for me i guess the best portrait focal for APSC 1.5x crop is 85mm w/c will feel like 100mm and in 4/3 50mm is 100mm equivalent..

Now a days I shoot portraits using telezoom lens like 80-200 f2.8 or the monilta beer can 70-210 f4 I can get the desired DOF just need to be a bit far from your subject

So far I like what I am hearing/reading about EPL2 and XZ1... will monitor what Oly will response to the red dot thingy for EPL2.

Sounds contradicting? Dun like 50/1.8 focal length but like 70-210? hmm.. 70-210 seems too long unless outdoor?

In the meantime, i am not worry abt RDP, but more on shooting hehe.

Here's some art filters that is different from previous PEN bodies...Art filters with a Art Effect...for some reason this is not really marketed well...

The Pop Art has now I & II (underexpose i feel). Each type u can add either "Soft focus" or "Pinhole" Art effect.

Some samples to show:

1. NO Art filter

2. Pop Art Type 1

3. Art filter Type 1 + Pinhole

4. Art filter Type 1 + Soft focus. This is my fav.

5. Art filter Type 1 + frame. This is pretty useful. But you can't have both frame and Pinhole/soft focus. Mutually exclusive setting.

The Art filter type or Art effect (Soft focus/pinhole) can't be chosen on the viewer software that comes together, maybe next version will be?